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How thick is the Eco Cork? That should help with sound absorption/blocking.
I think so with the Noico under part. Can't be more than an 1/8" I didn't examine it closely -- OK, the website says it's 3.2 mm, so call it an eighth. I especially want the 6 mil vapor barrier in the product.
 
I have a VanTred liner at the moment, which is nice, but I would really like to build a floor. I wish the van was sealed up to the half walls so I could pressure wash it. My friends with trailers do that and it is a nice feature.
I hear you. I'll end up with an inch or less of bathtub with the underlayment. Not enough for a hose, but soaking wet, sandy, drippy stuff should be OK!
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I have been delayed in my progress with a couple non van things. Hoping to work on the van siding later this week / next week.
I have extra rails. Also needed to order bolts online if I want to avoid paying close to $3 a piece for Metric M8 x 1.25.

RE: liners.

Wanted to chime in that there exist Metris specific plastic wall liners. It was one of the things that popped up during the various searches this summer. I would think that if one were to mate that up with some waterproof flooring and very good silicone / waterproofing at the wheel wells; one could get something that can be hosed out. I wouldn't go as far as pressure washing. Tricky bit would be the various D ring recesses, if installed. Maybe rustproof those extra. Then make sure those cups are watertight with new flooring system. Shop vac those dry with every rinse. Which may not be too bad depending how often an interior wash is needed. Once a quarter? month?

Metris Commercial Van Liner Advantage Outfitter

Alternative thought. Deep sliding tray? Removable floor system with low walls that can be extended and washed outside of the vehicle?
All depends on what needs to be transported, how it needs to be secured, how much space needs to be retained, other build desires, budget, ...
 
I hope I never have to carry anything that requires pressure washing to clean out! I'm just trying to prevent saltwater drips from getting under the wooden floor and starting corrosion on the bed floor. I may also do a tray at the rear as so many van lifer "garages" have.
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
I totally hear you, when it comes to sand, water, salt ... as I windsurf, paddle board, etc ... and have transported all my kit in regular passenger cars and minivans, finished up during rain storms, oncoming tropical events ... -- which is coincidentally why I love lift gates ( and would have custom ordered my metris with one ) everything including me soaking wet in the car or van.

In my Chrylser T&C I had a polyurethaned 4x8 plywood floor and lined trunk box. In my Dodge GC, I had a 4x8 plywood floor with some raised edges. Siliconed joints and a couple layers of re-decking paint with sand, then at the bumper area, there was a 2ft deep x 4ft wide section section of rubber roof membrane that folded out over the bumper. Worked a treat for the snowblower in winter, plants, shrubs, ... all kinds of stuff.

When I got tired of getting the floor in or out, for the occasions of needing to transport multiple people (I actually cut it in half first to make it less bulky and then just had the trunk half), but later got rid of even the rear 4x4 treated trunk plywood floor and settled on an 80mil EPDM roof membrane / heavy duty pond liner, that was oversized, but trimmed to the shape of the vehicle.

A lot of my wet kit, in the passenger vehicle days, I would throw in plastic trunks, ... then whatever would be leaking wet ( like large sails ) I'd try to always have a good floor mat with towel to absorb moisture. With some diligence that has worked fine for decades. Of course it depends on the frequency, ability to dry out, ...

I'd probably rock a few of those large commander black tubs with yellow lids that are popular these days, to throw the small wet stuff in from the beach, etc. Back in the day it was Rubbermaid Action Packers. They still exist, but are rather thin compared to how the originals used to be made.
 
I'd probably rock a few of those large commander black tubs with yellow lids that are popular these days, to throw the small wet stuff in from the beach, etc. Back in the day it was Rubbermaid Action Packers. They still exist, but are rather thin compared to how the originals used to be made.
I still have a couple of those Action Packers for my car camping gear. I've been using dry bags to store my waders, boots or booties and other stuff as an interim solution.
 
I have the factory bars. I will want to sell them soon since they were an unnecessary option on my van. PM me if you want them. I believe "focus805" will vouch for me as an honest and straightforward player.
He might even say I pack parts well.
I just looked at the right side one. It appears that, if there is any reinforcement, it is made by extending the sliding door reinforcement sheet metal up under the riv-nuts. See picture looking toward the rear.
The mounting holes are spaced evenly except the last one is further from the previous one. Only one of the two holes is used where there are pairs. As you can see, all mounting holes are in a straight line and are the lowest line of holes on the panel. I can reach in the hole at the front and feel no extra reinforcement. If you need other pictures, just say so. The mounting is simple. It came off in 2 minutes. Let me know if you want to buy them. I will also have floor rails available. View attachment 18214 u
I might be interested in buying your wall rails. How much are you asking? Thanks.
 
My wall rails are now packed up and ready for anyone who wants them. Private Message me. They include all hardware, and reinforcements for the wall immediately behind the driver. My van is a 135" cargo, but I believe the rails will fit the shorter van with a simple length cut. The rails have never been used.
 
My wall rails are now packed up and ready for anyone who wants them. Private Message me. They include all hardware, and reinforcements for the wall immediately behind the driver. My van is a 135" cargo, but I believe the rails will fit the shorter van with a simple length cut. The rails have never been used.
I can’t figure out how to PM you. I’m interested in the wall rails. Feel free to PM me to discuss.
 
I can’t figure out how to PM you. I’m interested in the wall rails. Feel free to PM me to discuss.
I started a conversation with you. Click on your "S" inside the box in the upper right corner. A menu should show "conversations." Click on that and my conversation should pop up. Just reply to that. It is a private
conversation between you and I.
 
@VanGo I figured you must have already sold the lashing rails, but checking in, just in case you haven't.
Yes, I sold them a while back. I believe the Metris rails are pretty standard parts. You may be able to buy rails from a generic aluminum rail vendor and cut them to length, drill the mounting holes, and install them. I don't think Mercedes parts are special in this case, but, I'm no expert.
 
Yes, I sold them a while back. I believe the Metris rails are pretty standard parts. You may be able to buy rails from a generic aluminum rail vendor and cut them to length, drill the mounting holes, and install them. I don't think Mercedes parts are special in this case, but, I'm no expert.
Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I was thinking of going that direction, but I was wondering about the reinforcements for the wall behind the driver ... without seeing one, it's hard to know how to recreate that particular part.
 
As I remember, the reinforcement was just a simple sheet metal piece that held the riv-nuts. The riv-nuts were located where the holes are in the interior side panel similar to the ones in the rear panels. The steel was the same thickness as the van interior sheet metal and the only bend was where there's the 45 degree bend in that side panel behind the driver, where the two holes are. The sheet metal with riv-nuts didn't appear to be overly structural in nature, more just something to house the riv-nuts.
I would use a fairly thin piece of angle-iron, drilled for riv-nuts and placed behind the driver side sheet metal to match the pairs of holes. Mercedes only used one of each pair of holes for mounting bolts on all the rails. The angle will give it some lateral rigidity so you don't bend the van panel. But, this is just my opinion, worth everything you paid for it. 😀
If you can find a dealer with a van with rails, but no interior side panels, a cargo model, you can lay on the floor with a flashlight and look at the reinforcement piece.
 
As I remember, the reinforcement was just a simple sheet metal piece that held the riv-nuts. The riv-nuts were located where the holes are in the interior side panel similar to the ones in the rear panels. The steel was the same thickness as the van interior sheet metal and the only bend was where there's the 45 degree bend in that side panel behind the driver, where the two holes are. The sheet metal with riv-nuts didn't appear to be overly structural in nature, more just something to house the riv-nuts.
I would use a fairly thin piece of angle-iron, drilled for riv-nuts and placed behind the driver side sheet metal to match the pairs of holes. Mercedes only used one of each pair of holes for mounting bolts on all the rails. The angle will give it some lateral rigidity so you don't bend the van panel. But, this is just my opinion, worth everything you paid for it. 😀
If you can find a dealer with a van with rails, but no interior side panels, a cargo model, you can lay on the floor with a flashlight and look at the reinforcement piece.
Fun fact: I just actually looked at the wall behind the driver's seat (I'm a volunteer doing the L-track and installing panels for the new Metris that our food bank just purchased -- even though my only experience working on vehicle interiors was when I took apart most of the interior of my '98 Subaru to add Dynamat and wire up new speakers and an offboard amp), and the reinforcement sheet with rivnuts is there, held on by four bolts, just waiting for me to install the aftermarket L-track.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Be aware that the black stronger metal reinforcement bar on the driver side, where the sliding door would be, is in two parts, each part held in place with two screws.
They will fall down into the cavity when you remove their two screws.

What is your plan to panel that Metris @elbrowno ?

I have the rails & plywood waiting in the garage. I am waiting for some slow time and warmer weather, so I can empty the van, look closer at making templates, and then figure out how to secure them without making any new holes nor using zip screws / bolts.
 
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