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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody have a part # for the waist level lashing rails (na) or tie down rails (eu)?

One dealer shuffled me to sprinterstore.
Another is not getting back to me.

I really need to get something on the walls to secure cargo, and, when I go to US Cargo Control, their L Track is 4" on center ... and the Metris does not even come close to that. I see that I can install 18x single L track pucks. Nothing else lines up hole wise to be equidistant, so really hoping to get my hands on some originals.

Official version:
18151
 

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You could always make your own with say an off spaced oak rail. Al you need is some M8 bolts. I just placed a series of M8 stainless eyebolts along the wall instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be an option, if it comes down to it, and it is impossible to find the factory set or it is at a ridiculous price, ...

My thought was actually to have these factory rails with slightly longer bolts sandwich down some 1/2" ply panels, so they'd cover the lower half of the van, and give me some flexibility for some wheel arch box covers and toolbox shelving / modular tool box cubbies.

Looking at the bolt holes, there is the option of having 6x a 1" L-track puck, per van section, so I could order 18 of those, but I'd rather have the flexibility of the rails.

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the three lashing rails ordered via a nearby dealer.

Dealer had to get some details from MB NA. Will be a special order coming from MB DE.
$289. That's not much more than factory pricing with a custom order.

There's some confusion regarding reinforcement rails being needed inside of the side walls, based on an exploded view MB NA presented of all parts involved for the option partition + lashing rails + floor rails. I opted out of those extra bits, given that my vehicle has 8 - 13 nuts visible inside each of the sidewalls, where the rails get bolted in; it is my understanding ( guess ? ) that what they showed as extra bars that looked like they had nuts on them - are already inside of the sidewall, welded in for the rear sides, and bolted for the middle. If they were bars with large holes ( no nuts ) there would be no way to fasten them from behind inside the wall. If they were bars with nuts ... seemed duplicate.

Will post the part numbers and some pictures when I get them in a week or two.
 

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I have the three lashing rails ordered via a nearby dealer.

Dealer had to get some details from MB NA. Will be a special order coming from MB DE.
$289. That's not much more than factory pricing with a custom order.

There's some confusion regarding reinforcement rails being needed inside of the side walls, based on an exploded view MB NA presented of all parts involved for the option partition + lashing rails + floor rails. I opted out of those extra bits, given that my vehicle has 8 - 13 nuts visible inside each of the sidewalls, where the rails get bolted in; it is my understanding ( guess ? ) that what they showed as extra bars that looked like they had nuts on them - are already inside of the sidewall, welded in for the rear sides, and bolted for the middle. If they were bars with large holes ( no nuts ) there would be no way to fasten them from behind inside the wall. If they were bars with nuts ... seemed duplicate.

Will post the part numbers and some pictures when I get them in a week or two.
Here's the parts and pic. The reinforcements are a separate part number. Not sure whether they come standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thank you for showing those. That one is the image they showed me, to confirm what I wanted to order.

I deduced that 630 640 and 650 670 are the bars with the welded nuts that are already in the sidewalls of my van. All the recessed nuts are there on all three panels.

Access on rear sides is quite limited to add a bar inside the wall after the fact. A reinforcement bar would either need punch out holes to go around the nuts, and then get fastened some way, or, it would have exact matching nuts and bolt through with longer bolts ... which I don’t quite see happening. Or one would have to have loose nuts to fasten down from behind on longer bolts ... that would work for most scenarios, except I intend to install different filler paneling over the side and under the rail, which closes off access during rail install.

So, without a picture of the parts and more information, I wasn’t going to pay to find out.

Note, I fully understand the idea behind backing plates and reinforcement to prevent tear out and damaging weaker materials.

I need to create a filler strip as the shoulder rail is not flat - that would be too easy - so I could fashion a reinforcement bar on the face side; but I don’t know that it needs it.

My intended use is as a tipping restraint; to hold a couple stacks of tool cases in place during transit. They have some weight, but like to tip over in tight curves. Just something to keep them upright and prevent them from smashing into each other or materials or whatever goods may be transported.
 

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I need to create a filler strip as the shoulder rail is not flat - that would be too easy - so I could fashion a reinforcement bar on the face side; but I don’t know that it needs it.
I am not sure P/N 670 isn't already installed. I too found that the strip width is an issue. I cut some 2x2's (cross section precisely 1.5" like 80/20 15 series) to mount on the rear strip points as part of a mock-up. There isn't enough clearance to mount a 1.5" strip flat against the van wall, so I had to lower the mounting holes about 1/4 " and mount the rails off center. Not acceptable for 80/20, so I need to go down to 1" strips on the rear reinforcing strip points.

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Discussion Starter #9
You are correct. 670! Got my numbers mixed up in typing. I think that they're installed as well, as part of them getting the nuts in there. MB would not want the nuts for tie-downs there, if the metal around it wouldn't be able to hold anything.

I have 80/20 on my mind - for the dream build maybe? - but right now, I'm trying to keep it simple.

It looks like we did a similar thing with the sound deadening :)

Between the small table saw & thickness planer, I should be able to trim some pieces as needed, to bring the track out a bit.

My mind is still puzzled with the myriad of holes, ceiling bars that don't match and their holes & punch outs are all different kinds of sizes and shapes. I'd like those to match up and be able to hold something ... but, I intend to make that a separate thread :) To keep this one dedicated to the side rails.
 

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Does anybody have a part # for the waist level lashing rails (na) or tie down rails (eu)?

One dealer shuffled me to sprinterstore.
Another is not getting back to me.

I really need to get something on the walls to secure cargo, and, when I go to US Cargo Control, their L Track is 4" on center ... and the Metris does not even come close to that. I see that I can install 18x single L track pucks. Nothing else lines up hole wise to be equidistant, so really hoping to get my hands on some originals.

Official version:
View attachment 18151
I ordered them from Mercedes as part number H3259901 (included rail, anchor, mounting hardware). Looking at the shop notes, they included part no’s A6395841238 (2 qty), A6398990132 (4 qty), a6396366316 (2 qty), and N000000001152 (16 qty).
 

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I have the factory bars. I will want to sell them soon since they were an unnecessary option on my van. PM me if you want them. I believe "focus805" will vouch for me as an honest and straightforward player.
He might even say I pack parts well.
I just looked at the right side one. It appears that, if there is any reinforcement, it is made by extending the sliding door reinforcement sheet metal up under the riv-nuts. See picture looking toward the rear.
The mounting holes are spaced evenly except the last one is further from the previous one. Only one of the two holes is used where there are pairs. As you can see, all mounting holes are in a straight line and are the lowest line of holes on the panel. I can reach in the hole at the front and feel no extra reinforcement. If you need other pictures, just say so. The mounting is simple. It came off in 2 minutes. Let me know if you want to buy them. I will also have floor rails available.
1601598794356627137833.jpg
u
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I very much appreciate the offer, VanGo, and would have happily purchased them from you, if my order wasn't pre-paid & shipped from Germany already.

Shipping of the floor rails is probably cost prohibitive, due to their 8ft length.

I saw a combo kit of 4 x 4ft lengths with some extra hardware for a great price, and was thinking of putting a thicker floor in than the factory stock 3/8; with slots routed for them, but not going through to bare metal. Perhaps even installing them perpendicular, instead of lengthwise. I will probably look a bit closer at that next week. I picked up some e-track locally. Should have the factory bars next week and will have some puzzling to do. But, I'm wrapping up an overdue project, have a couple unexpected things I need to take care of ... plus my van is full of tools :)

Thank you so much though for thinking of me!
 

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I very much appreciate the offer, VanGo, and would have happily purchased them from you, if my order wasn't pre-paid & shipped from Germany already.

Shipping of the floor rails is probably cost prohibitive, due to their 8ft length.

I saw a combo kit of 4 x 4ft lengths with some extra hardware for a great price, and was thinking of putting a thicker floor in than the factory stock 3/8; with slots routed for them, but not going through to bare metal. Perhaps even installing them perpendicular, instead of lengthwise. I will probably look a bit closer at that next week. I picked up some e-track locally. Should have the factory bars next week and will have some puzzling to do. But, I'm wrapping up an overdue project, have a couple unexpected things I need to take care of ... plus my van is full of tools :)

Thank you so much though for thinking of me!
I was actually inviting anyone else who wanted the rails to contact me. I knew, but regretted, that you had such a difficulty finding them when I had them available soon, "icerabbit."

The rails actually fit down in a slot in the floor. They are about an inch high, where the floor is actually only 3/8". I'm not sure if there is ply under that as well. I'm probably going to start from scratch when a get
a rock-n-roll bed and build a floor from scratch to go around that. I'll try to find someone nearby who wants the whole system, since you may be right about the shipping, especially the floor. I hadn't really spent a lot of time thinking about it since, presently, my bed is held down with the straps on the floor.
It's pretty funny. Because sofa-beds are hard to come by now, I cut the bottom wood rails out of a queen size box spring to fit around the wheel wells, so the top metal rods sat on the wheel wells. I added 7" 4x4 legs screwed to the front of the box spring. Then, I threw an old mattress (40 years) on top with a foam topper and away we went camping. We slept great! It was safe, because I strapped it down to the rails on the floor.
Home away from home! I think a rock-n-roll bed will work better, but, they aren't exactly available this fall and we wanted to use the van for camping, so we did!
 

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I have the factory bars. I will want to sell them soon since they were an unnecessary option on my van. PM me if you want them. I believe "focus805" will vouch for me as an honest and straightforward player.
He might even say I pack parts well.
I'll happily vouch for VanGo -- I was able to obtain a beautiful set of friedola TECH Con-Pearl panels with mounting hardware for my 135 very easily and nicely. The packaging was amazing! -- let's just say each part was carefully wrapped and labeled for use and location. Highly recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Picked this up from the dealer yesterday ... only to discover a problem this am ...

18226


Somehow all three are identical in length, so the first one I want to install is a no go ...

:confused:
 

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Sorry about your hold-up. I wanted to add a note that there are, indeed, two backing plates behind the forward lashing rail on the driver side. They fell out when I removed the rail. They actually house the nuts for that rail, as I'm sure you now know, icerabbit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, indeed they fall out when you undo the 4 bolts :) And their visual depiction in the parts order image, is the hex nut with four weld tacks, and to me proves my inclination that those reinforcements are in the rear sides already, not something to order already. When you have the threaded nuts in there, those would also be 4 spot welded in place to a piece of metal. Difference being that the whole thing is welded in place as part of the assembly process. And for the middle for some reason they don't weld it into that middle assembly. Anyhow.

Update from the dealer via MB NA & MB DE: the middle rails are not available at this time, that's why they shipped an extra rear.
---> Just modify the a rear one to suit so it fits in the middle.

Not what I had hoped, but I already figured that I might have to go that route.

As I'm wrapping up another project and am able to empty my van - yay! - I should be able to make some wooden side panels, wheel well boxes, etc and explore a couple of my cargo security ideas.

I am debating whether I should actually pull the factory 3/8 floor up, and replace it with 3/4 inch ply and dado'd slots to go for recessed bottom rails. Right now it seems like a lot of work for no immediate gain in my daily use. I primarily need to able to lash things to the sides and partition things in the middle. So, I may just go for the sides, for now ... if need be the new work will be modular and removable.
 

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I am debating whether I should actually pull the factory 3/8 floor up, and replace it with 3/4 inch ply and dado'd slots to go for recessed bottom rails. Right now it seems like a lot of work for no immediate gain in my daily use. I primarily need to able to lash things to the sides and partition things in the middle. So, I may just go for the sides, for now ... if need be the new work will be modular and removable.
Mine is coming up for a couple of reasons, though I don't need the floor rails.

First, the factory surface is not very abrasion resistant, nor is it very water resistant. So, the van floor comes out, Noico 80 mil goes into the grooves, a thin vapor barrier like THIS
18246
goes down, the factory floor goes back, then it gets covered with grey coin vinyl flooring
18247
like THIS unless I can find something less toxic. I see no downside to a floor vapor barrier, and a lot of upside to having an impermeable floor pan. I recreate around salt water as often as I can. I checked the D-rings, and those that I am not hijacking for equipment fixing points have plenty of depth on the bolts to accommodate the 3/16 or so of extra depth the two added layers will cause.

Has anyone used a different underlayment? I find the deeper floor designs unacceptable as I want to be able to be seated comfortably in the rear of Metris. The above-described solution also has the advantage of being cheap, as in well under $200.
 
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Mine is coming up for a couple of reasons, though I don't need the floor rails.

First, the factory surface is not very abrasion resistant, nor is it very water resistant. So, the van floor comes out, Noico 80 mil goes into the grooves, a thin vapor barrier like THIS View attachment 18246 goes down, the factory floor goes back, then it gets covered with grey coin vinyl flooring View attachment 18247 like THIS unless I can find something less toxic. I see no downside to a floor vapor barrier, and a lot of upside to having an impermeable floor pan. I recreate around salt water as often as I can. I checked the D-rings, and those that I am not hijacking for equipment fixing points have plenty of depth on the bolts to accommodate the 3/16 or so of extra depth the two added layers will cause.

Has anyone used a different underlayment? I find the deeper floor designs unacceptable as I want to be able to be seated comfortably in the rear of Metris. The above-described solution also has the advantage of being cheap, as in well under $200.
How thick is the Eco Cork? That should help with sound absorption/blocking.
 

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First, the factory surface is not very abrasion resistant, nor is it very water resistant.
I have a VanTred liner at the moment, which is nice, but I would really like to build a floor. I wish the van was sealed up to the half walls so I could pressure wash it. My friends with trailers do that and it is a nice feature.
 
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