[brizbarn]

you're welcome. Definitely worth giving it a try. The toughest part for me was getting the ECU and bracket out, but just take your time. The replacement of PCV / bleedline is probably the easiest step in the process once it's reachable and visible. My back was aching from hunching over, but it was worth it. Mechanics / techs must have a high pain threshold for getting their bodies into awkward positions. Everything can be done from above, no need to access anything from below the van. Also, I just used a leather man pocket knife to cut the hardline hose. Here are a couple more pics of the old part, shown with the hardline hose cut. And the other with some short hose slipped over the nipple, that short hose length will get clamps on both ends. It should all make sense as you're doing it.

 

[spyskys]

Thanks everyone for all the useful beta on this repair. Took the time on Friday to change out the bleed line. It really is an ingenious workaround. Seemed pretty straightforward with the most challenging part being tightening the hoses once in position. Noticed some slight emulsion build up in the hose, did not open the diaphragm flap to see how bad the rest is. Drove the van about 4-5 cycles yesterday with CEL still on. On first start up this AM, CEL is GONE!!! I grimace to think I might have to repeat this in 40-50k time as I am just at 40k when P052E code went out. Wonder how the USPS is addressing this with all the vans they recently bought. Must admit, this is very frustrating as our 2007 Honda Element has spoiled us on low cost to maintain. Perhaps this is the price of admission for having a Metris. Now to get an oil change in the coming week or so. Upward and onward….for now. Thanks again to this community!

 

[Shqipe]

I had to have my Crankcase Ventilation Purge Valve replaced. I was billed for 12 hours of labor. Has anyone else dealt with this problem?

Has anyone tried to run this issues through the extended warranty in Canada, I see some US customers are getting covered under the extended warranty 15 year/150,000 miles or 241,000 km. Mercedes Canada says they never heard of it and would not cover it.

 

[pounce]

Has anyone tried to run this issues through the extended warranty in Canada,

Are you having the issue personally?

 

[Shqipe]

Are you having the issue personally?

Yes i have a 2017 Metria now and it got the code P052E71. Emailed Mercedes Canada and they are saying that the Metris is not on the list of extended warranty which has the same engine M274 as every other vehicle on the list. I am gonna try and fight them out on it.

 

[pounce]

Good detail.

 

[nigel_miguel]

Thank you for the detailed post, I’ve replaced the valve as mentioned, but my check engine light is still on. I tried using a scangaugeII to reset but my tool may be having issues.
it won’t reset and I’ve driven it all few times it won’t turn off on its own, as mentioned above! Any advice? Thanks

 

[RallyVan16]

G & G, Brilliant write up with photos !!!!! THANKS !!!
The part was 24 dollars so I bought 2 in case one was cheap garbage and needed to be replaced. all in all I was In and Out - total 1 hour - with shattin'my pants after i snapped the lower line and the split went down that plastic tube rather than across! I measured the rubber and it covered the split, used the scan tool clear the P-codes. went to the inspection station a few miles away which wasnt far enough to erase the permanent P code registry but the tech said " it isnt current anymore" ! "drive it a week or so and check the permanent register ... when it is gone off the PR, come back"!

Woo HOO

 

[buswedg]

I tried the Metros fix today, but ran into an issue. I think I may have been too forceful when installing the new part, and noticed that the original hose now has a kink in it (see pictures).

I was curious if anyone has run into this issue before, and if so, whether you attempted to fix it or leave it be? I'm thinking of buying some longer tube and cutting further down the original line to replace the kinked section.

Would appreciate feedback on what issues this could cause if I leave it, and/or what tube I should purchase to fix it? If anyone has info on the inner and outer diameter of the tube, would appreciate if you could post it.

Thanks!

 

[RallyVan16]

I tried the Metros fix today, but ran into an issue. I think I may have been too forceful when installing the new part, and noticed that the original hose now has a kink in it (see pictures).

I was curious if anyone has run into this issue before, and if so, whether you attempted to fix it or leave it be? I'm thinking of buying some longer tube and cutting further down the original line to replace the kinked section.

Would appreciate feedback on what issues this could cause if I leave it, and/or what tube I should purchase to fix it? If anyone has info on the inner and outer diameter of the tube, would appreciate if you could post it.

Thanks!

View attachment 26294

@buswedg
Having just done this myself and seeing what you have pictured.

1. did the code clear off? if yes, there is a risk factor ... over time the plastic tube cracks at the bend and the code returns. if no, then there is likely an issue at the bend already, both lend itself to #2
2. you can take an appropriate section (considering bends and twists) of the old 'upper' hose which is already the correct size and use that to connect to the lower barb just to the left of your arrow tip with or without the tube on the barb, then up to the new part. (obviously clean the old hose before installing) clamp and done. a spring clamp might be the only type you could access from above and work 'blind' in that area. Wait ...can you even get a screwdriver down in that area from above? I couldn't because I have monstrously meaty hands that can palm a basketball and have the density of a 5lb hammer. I didn't try but can you access this area from under the van?

NOTE:
I tried fitting the hose over the plastic tube on the barb before installing. it's a tight fit. I didn't have any screw type clamps handy and limited spring clamps, so I had to cut off the plastic tube from the barb, then install the rubber hose and re-used the crimp-lock clamp. I learned the trick to re-use them from a career backyard mechanic. Locked and Loaded!

I used a sharp set of small ***** from my RC car tool kit as getting down there with a knife and slicing would be too awkward uncontrollable. The ***** just nibbled the tube 'enough' without damaging the barb so that I could remove the tube by cracking off the remainder with a flat head screwdriver, then hose and clamp ...DONE

Hope this Helps

 

[buswedg]

Thanks for the reply -- I ended up cutting the line right at the nipple, just prior to that pictured kink. I then purchased and used a longer section of tubing to run right up to the valve. The clamps were a pain to tighten, but I got it done. Took the car out for a drive afterwards and the engine light cleared after about 5 miles of driving and a stop/ restart. So looks like I'm all good.

 

[nigel_miguel]

I installed mine over two months ago (see my post from April 27), and the check engine light is still on. How do I reset the light. It seems everyone’s light just turns off.

 

[Claytonroy]

I replaced mine today, thanks redlightning and brizbarn!

One thing I did to help ease the removal of the ECU plate - squirted a 1/2 oz or so of soapy water on the 3 grommets to help loosen them up. Upon reinstall, I smeared the 3 rubber mount eyelets w/ moto grease.

I would have liked to have a Pro pair of hose clamp pliers - made do with 11” needle nose 2 pack from Harbor Freight. There is just not a lot of room down there to work!

 

[nigel_miguel]

Still haven’t been able to clear the check engine light. Has anyone had the same issue? How did you solve it?

 

[brizbarn]

To clear the code, I think most of us who did this repair didn’t need to do anything other than replace the part and drive the vehicle a short distance. My CEL turned off after a short distance driving. Maybe try disconnecting your negative battery terminal overnight to see if that resets the code. If it does turn off the CEL, but then it returns with some driving, that might mean you did something wrong in replacing your purge valve. This is my non-expert advice.

 

[nigel_miguel]

Thank you for the help. I disconnected the neg. Terminal for over 24 hrs. It didn’t turn off and my Autel scanner doesn’t have the metris model to read it. Does anyone recommend a avg prices scanner for me to confirm? I followed the instruction in the detailed post, not sure what I did wrong. Has this happened to anyone else? Any direction would be better progress than I have as of now.
Thanks again for your help.

 

[Claytonroy]

@nigel_miguel

It took 3 tries to clear mine. After the 1x (just after completing the job repair) I went for a short drive with no luck. It took another 2 connect/erase cycles with my Zurich ZR-13s Scan tool. Finally cleared it. Went for a 200 mile trip to the Oregon Coast last weekend, CEL light remains off and van is running great. Fuel mileage seems better than ever.