[elbrowno]

Be aware that the black stronger metal reinforcement bar on the driver side, where the sliding door would be, is in two parts, each part held in place with two screws.
They will fall down into the cavity when you remove their two screws.

What is your plan to panel that Metris @elbrowno ?

I have the rails & plywood waiting in the garage. I am waiting for some slow time and warmer weather, so I can empty the van, look closer at making templates, and then figure out how to secure them without making any new holes nor using zip screws / bolts.

I'm not paneling the entire wall, but just matching the factory panels that would have come with the cargo protection package. Last weekend I made the panels out of white coroplast (plasti-shield), since it's slightly translucent and therefore I could cut it close to size then hold it against the wall locations to draw in the shapes. With a box cutter and a little trial and error I was able to get a good set of panels fitted and holes punched through with an awl ... and obviously, given that I could do the latter, it was clear that these aren't strong enough to be my final product, so I'm using them as templates to create panels from 5mm luan plywood this weekend. I won't install the panels behind the driver until after I've installed the L-track rail, for the reason that you just described

 

[VanGo]

The panels Mercedes delivered with my van looked like either cardboard coated with plastic or corrugated plastic made into a cardboard- like sheet. I wonder if one can buy that material somewhere and make her
own panels just like the ones that came with my van.
It looks like the fact that your van came with the reinforcements proves the old adage, "Its good to be smart, but better to be lucky!" Nice "find" on your part!

 

[icerabbit]

The product is Con-Pearl by Friedola Tech.

It does look like corrugated cardboard, except made with plastic instead of paper.

The part numbers, may be listed on the forum, not sure; but should be available through the dealers repair parts catalog. I did not jot them all down, when I sound proofed / deadened behind all my panels. I have a couple photos with a few codes: A447 747 12 00 and A 447 692 75 03 and A 447 747 11 00 ... there's stickers on the insides of them. Maybe that helps track them down.

There's two different types of plastic retainers, one with two parts for the lower panels, one single part for the upper panels.

I may redo my lower Con-Pearl ones in plywood, if I can manage to reuse the factory pins, as to get a wooden side that can receive a couple screw to for my wooden panel sides. I know a coarse crew will grip into it just fine. If the idea proves that it can work, I will certainly jot down the lower ones's numbers and could even do a paper template, can be photographed pretty easily, for others to have as a reference.

 

[icerabbit]

Having finally installed the rails over some additional paneling, it is high time to double confirm that:

> standard L-track will NOT line up with the MB factory holes

The structure of the track is similar but different, accessories work on both, etc but the length of the " teeth " therefor spacing of the holes in the track is different.

Only the MB Track 's holes will line up with the holes in the sides.

As can be seen here:

US L-Trac on top (rounded)
MB L-trac bottom (square)

If you get standard track without holes, the teeth will get in the way to drill your holes at the required MB spacing and certainly to insert the bolts.

It may not look too bad in the photo, where I tried to align both based on the third or fourth hole. Outward from that it gets progressively worse. If you start at one end ... you get the idea.

 

[pounce]

L-Track Bed Tiedown System

This is an alternative to the Unistrut / Superstrut system described in another thread. Pics, then a few notes after …. NOTE ON POUND RATINGS - I've included the spec working load rating just to give a relative idea of the system strength; obviously, actual capacity will be limited...

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

That thread shows how this person mounted an L track to factory locations where the bolt hole may have ended up at a tooth location. Has a clever trick of mounting some headless set screws in the factory locations and tapping the L track to transfer the locations.

 

[icerabbit]

It can of course be done with un-drilled track and using small fasteners, especially smaller countersunk ones will be more forgiving for the same amount of space and allow for unlimited positions along the track.

But, it is kind of apples and oranges. The OP in the other forum never shows how / where the holes actually line up with standard track versus factory track. And, he only used 3 countersunk #6 fasteners per length of 46".

Whereas MB has 8x 8mm bolt holes in the same length of track, with Torx button heads.
And, I went one step beyond, using flanged button heads for maximum contact area.

 

[pounce]

No criticism at all. Just offering some more angles for creativity. I looked at doing my own in the floor until I just bit the bullet and bought the vito sliding rails that are L track. I wanted the countersunk bolts (in principal rather than any real need) so I didn't lose any anchor locations. I'd be curious about the strength difference between a flat head bolt with a 100degree or 82 degree (typical for l track) head vs a button head. I guess it would depend on the underlying material, but pulling one of those through the material would have to take a lot of force. More math involved there than I probably learned total I think I was skeptical like you of being able to place a hole centered on the teeth without impacting those teeth substantially for the fittings. Looks like it might be possible. Worst case maybe you are giving up fewer anchor locations with using flat heads counter sunk than holes centered on teeth?

But you are right, the bolts are bigger. I think the m8 flat heads are 16mm. Maybe 13.5 on an M6. That might break a tooth.

 

[icerabbit]

It really would depend on the head size of the old fashioned screw head, and then being able to precisely drill it out to match the factory bolts.

The angle of error is pretty much zero.

Between my plywood shims and 48” tall panels, I had a couple holes that did not quite line up, where one of the wood holes was off center a tick, and the bolts just said no.

I have no idea how much force it would take to pull a traditional screw through, vs a bolt, vs a flange bolt.

I just wanted something good to form the basis of my walls and extras bolted on. I had some 35mm button head bolts but they were a bit short, in order to install the plywood while it is still flat. I figured I already lost 8 click in spots spots regardless if MB installed the track or I copied them. I saw the flange model bolts and for the same price, figured why not, and went with those in 55 or 60. Could one drill the track hole to mate with a traditional screw flanged screw head? Sure. But, I don't think it of it as a tool rail where every click matters. At least not in my case. If it did ... maybe chamfer half of them? Leave the outer ones flanged for strength and alternate? For me, at a dollar per stainless bolt, I'm not going to weaken the rail track by drilling and order another $24 worth of bolts.

By the way.

The third hole from the rear needs a short bolt. The long ones hit an obstacle after about an inch and half ? ( 35mm depth works, 55 & 60 doesn't )

 

[icerabbit]

So, have not expanded on this thread in a while.

Figured I could add a couple things and link to the " build " thread.

Being that there was no short track, and all three were the same length, the one behind the driver was trimmed a few inches.

Here are the 3 tracks installed:

Which is part of the " Flex " thread here >> #14

There are also some end caps, specific for the MB profile.

 

[icerabbit]

Speaking of lashing rails:

I will also link Focus' thread regarding the rails for his passenger van ( same product # from MB, as these, but second row needs shortening on both ends).

Length of Factory Driver's Side B to C Pillar Cargo...

I posted this question in a location in another thread that was pretty buried. Would someone with the factory cargo rails please measure the length of the rail behind the driver's seat? MB no longer sells that rail (639 636 64 10), so they offer the 639 636 64 16 instead, but it needs to be...

www.metrisforum.com

 

[focus805]

Speaking of lashing rails:

I will also link Focus' thread regarding the rails for his passenger van ( same product # from MB, as these, but second row needs shortening on both ends).

Length of Factory Driver's Side B to C Pillar Cargo...

I posted this question in a location in another thread that was pretty buried. Would someone with the factory cargo rails please measure the length of the rail behind the driver's seat? MB no longer sells that rail (639 636 64 10), so they offer the 639 636 64 16 instead, but it needs to be...

www.metrisforum.com

Those custom end caps are sweet!

 

[icerabbit]

Those custom end caps are sweet!

Sent you a direct message, yesterday.