You could always make your own with say an off spaced oak rail. Al you need is some M8 bolts. I just placed a series of M8 stainless eyebolts along the wall instead.

 

That would be an option, if it comes down to it, and it is impossible to find the factory set or it is at a ridiculous price, ...

My thought was actually to have these factory rails with slightly longer bolts sandwich down some 1/2" ply panels, so they'd cover the lower half of the van, and give me some flexibility for some wheel arch box covers and toolbox shelving / modular tool box cubbies.

Looking at the bolt holes, there is the option of having 6x a 1" L-track puck, per van section, so I could order 18 of those, but I'd rather have the flexibility of the rails.

 

I have the three lashing rails ordered via a nearby dealer.

Dealer had to get some details from MB NA. Will be a special order coming from MB DE.
$289. That's not much more than factory pricing with a custom order.

There's some confusion regarding reinforcement rails being needed inside of the side walls, based on an exploded view MB NA presented of all parts involved for the option partition + lashing rails + floor rails. I opted out of those extra bits, given that my vehicle has 8 - 13 nuts visible inside each of the sidewalls, where the rails get bolted in; it is my understanding ( guess ? ) that what they showed as extra bars that looked like they had nuts on them - are already inside of the sidewall, welded in for the rear sides, and bolted for the middle. If they were bars with large holes ( no nuts ) there would be no way to fasten them from behind inside the wall. If they were bars with nuts ... seemed duplicate.

Will post the part numbers and some pictures when I get them in a week or two.

 

I have the three lashing rails ordered via a nearby dealer.

Dealer had to get some details from MB NA. Will be a special order coming from MB DE.
$289. That's not much more than factory pricing with a custom order.

There's some confusion regarding reinforcement rails being needed inside of the side walls, based on an exploded view MB NA presented of all parts involved for the option partition + lashing rails + floor rails. I opted out of those extra bits, given that my vehicle has 8 - 13 nuts visible inside each of the sidewalls, where the rails get bolted in; it is my understanding ( guess ? ) that what they showed as extra bars that looked like they had nuts on them - are already inside of the sidewall, welded in for the rear sides, and bolted for the middle. If they were bars with large holes ( no nuts ) there would be no way to fasten them from behind inside the wall. If they were bars with nuts ... seemed duplicate.

Will post the part numbers and some pictures when I get them in a week or two.

Here's the parts and pic. The reinforcements are a separate part number. Not sure whether they come standard.

 

The factory rails are 1M long.
Holes at 100mm,150mm,120mm 150mm, 150,mm, 150mm, 1500 mm respectively

 

Thank you for showing those. That one is the image they showed me, to confirm what I wanted to order.

I deduced that 630 640 and 650 670 are the bars with the welded nuts that are already in the sidewalls of my van. All the recessed nuts are there on all three panels.

Access on rear sides is quite limited to add a bar inside the wall after the fact. A reinforcement bar would either need punch out holes to go around the nuts, and then get fastened some way, or, it would have exact matching nuts and bolt through with longer bolts ... which I don’t quite see happening. Or one would have to have loose nuts to fasten down from behind on longer bolts ... that would work for most scenarios, except I intend to install different filler paneling over the side and under the rail, which closes off access during rail install.

So, without a picture of the parts and more information, I wasn’t going to pay to find out.

Note, I fully understand the idea behind backing plates and reinforcement to prevent tear out and damaging weaker materials.

I need to create a filler strip as the shoulder rail is not flat - that would be too easy - so I could fashion a reinforcement bar on the face side; but I don’t know that it needs it.

My intended use is as a tipping restraint; to hold a couple stacks of tool cases in place during transit. They have some weight, but like to tip over in tight curves. Just something to keep them upright and prevent them from smashing into each other or materials or whatever goods may be transported.

 

I need to create a filler strip as the shoulder rail is not flat - that would be too easy - so I could fashion a reinforcement bar on the face side; but I don’t know that it needs it.

I am not sure P/N 670 isn't already installed. I too found that the strip width is an issue. I cut some 2x2's (cross section precisely 1.5" like 80/20 15 series) to mount on the rear strip points as part of a mock-up. There isn't enough clearance to mount a 1.5" strip flat against the van wall, so I had to lower the mounting holes about 1/4 " and mount the rails off center. Not acceptable for 80/20, so I need to go down to 1" strips on the rear reinforcing strip points.

 

You are correct. 670! Got my numbers mixed up in typing. I think that they're installed as well, as part of them getting the nuts in there. MB would not want the nuts for tie-downs there, if the metal around it wouldn't be able to hold anything.

I have 80/20 on my mind - for the dream build maybe? - but right now, I'm trying to keep it simple.

It looks like we did a similar thing with the sound deadening

Between the small table saw & thickness planer, I should be able to trim some pieces as needed, to bring the track out a bit.

My mind is still puzzled with the myriad of holes, ceiling bars that don't match and their holes & punch outs are all different kinds of sizes and shapes. I'd like those to match up and be able to hold something ... but, I intend to make that a separate thread To keep this one dedicated to the side rails.

 

Does anybody have a part # for the waist level lashing rails (na) or tie down rails (eu)?

One dealer shuffled me to sprinterstore.
Another is not getting back to me.

I really need to get something on the walls to secure cargo, and, when I go to US Cargo Control, their L Track is 4" on center ... and the Metris does not even come close to that. I see that I can install 18x single L track pucks. Nothing else lines up hole wise to be equidistant, so really hoping to get my hands on some originals.

Official version:
View attachment 18151

I ordered them from Mercedes as part number H3259901 (included rail, anchor, mounting hardware). Looking at the shop notes, they included part no’s A6395841238 (2 qty), A6398990132 (4 qty), a6396366316 (2 qty), and N000000001152 (16 qty).

 

I have the factory bars. I will want to sell them soon since they were an unnecessary option on my van. PM me if you want them. I believe "focus805" will vouch for me as an honest and straightforward player.
He might even say I pack parts well.
I just looked at the right side one. It appears that, if there is any reinforcement, it is made by extending the sliding door reinforcement sheet metal up under the riv-nuts. See picture looking toward the rear.
The mounting holes are spaced evenly except the last one is further from the previous one. Only one of the two holes is used where there are pairs. As you can see, all mounting holes are in a straight line and are the lowest line of holes on the panel. I can reach in the hole at the front and feel no extra reinforcement. If you need other pictures, just say so. The mounting is simple. It came off in 2 minutes. Let me know if you want to buy them. I will also have floor rails available.

u

 

I have the factory bars. I will want to sell them soon since they were an unnecessary option on my van. PM me if you want them. I believe "focus805" will vouch for me as an honest and straightforward player.
He might even say I pack parts well.

I'll happily vouch for VanGo -- I was able to obtain a beautiful set of friedola TECH Con-Pearl panels with mounting hardware for my 135 very easily and nicely. The packaging was amazing! -- let's just say each part was carefully wrapped and labeled for use and location. Highly recommended.

 

I very much appreciate the offer, VanGo, and would have happily purchased them from you, if my order wasn't pre-paid & shipped from Germany already.

Shipping of the floor rails is probably cost prohibitive, due to their 8ft length.

I saw a combo kit of 4 x 4ft lengths with some extra hardware for a great price, and was thinking of putting a thicker floor in than the factory stock 3/8; with slots routed for them, but not going through to bare metal. Perhaps even installing them perpendicular, instead of lengthwise. I will probably look a bit closer at that next week. I picked up some e-track locally. Should have the factory bars next week and will have some puzzling to do. But, I'm wrapping up an overdue project, have a couple unexpected things I need to take care of ... plus my van is full of tools

Thank you so much though for thinking of me!

 

I very much appreciate the offer, VanGo, and would have happily purchased them from you, if my order wasn't pre-paid & shipped from Germany already.

Shipping of the floor rails is probably cost prohibitive, due to their 8ft length.

I saw a combo kit of 4 x 4ft lengths with some extra hardware for a great price, and was thinking of putting a thicker floor in than the factory stock 3/8; with slots routed for them, but not going through to bare metal. Perhaps even installing them perpendicular, instead of lengthwise. I will probably look a bit closer at that next week. I picked up some e-track locally. Should have the factory bars next week and will have some puzzling to do. But, I'm wrapping up an overdue project, have a couple unexpected things I need to take care of ... plus my van is full of tools

Thank you so much though for thinking of me!

I was actually inviting anyone else who wanted the rails to contact me. I knew, but regretted, that you had such a difficulty finding them when I had them available soon, "icerabbit."

The rails actually fit down in a slot in the floor. They are about an inch high, where the floor is actually only 3/8". I'm not sure if there is ply under that as well. I'm probably going to start from scratch when a get
a rock-n-roll bed and build a floor from scratch to go around that. I'll try to find someone nearby who wants the whole system, since you may be right about the shipping, especially the floor. I hadn't really spent a lot of time thinking about it since, presently, my bed is held down with the straps on the floor.
It's pretty funny. Because sofa-beds are hard to come by now, I cut the bottom wood rails out of a queen size box spring to fit around the wheel wells, so the top metal rods sat on the wheel wells. I added 7" 4x4 legs screwed to the front of the box spring. Then, I threw an old mattress (40 years) on top with a foam topper and away we went camping. We slept great! It was safe, because I strapped it down to the rails on the floor.
Home away from home! I think a rock-n-roll bed will work better, but, they aren't exactly available this fall and we wanted to use the van for camping, so we did!

 

Picked this up from the dealer yesterday ... only to discover a problem this am ...

Somehow all three are identical in length, so the first one I want to install is a no go ...

 

Sorry about your hold-up. I wanted to add a note that there are, indeed, two backing plates behind the forward lashing rail on the driver side. They fell out when I removed the rail. They actually house the nuts for that rail, as I'm sure you now know, icerabbit.

 

Yes, indeed they fall out when you undo the 4 bolts And their visual depiction in the parts order image, is the hex nut with four weld tacks, and to me proves my inclination that those reinforcements are in the rear sides already, not something to order already. When you have the threaded nuts in there, those would also be 4 spot welded in place to a piece of metal. Difference being that the whole thing is welded in place as part of the assembly process. And for the middle for some reason they don't weld it into that middle assembly. Anyhow.

Update from the dealer via MB NA & MB DE: the middle rails are not available at this time, that's why they shipped an extra rear.
---> Just modify the a rear one to suit so it fits in the middle.

Not what I had hoped, but I already figured that I might have to go that route.

As I'm wrapping up another project and am able to empty my van - yay! - I should be able to make some wooden side panels, wheel well boxes, etc and explore a couple of my cargo security ideas.

I am debating whether I should actually pull the factory 3/8 floor up, and replace it with 3/4 inch ply and dado'd slots to go for recessed bottom rails. Right now it seems like a lot of work for no immediate gain in my daily use. I primarily need to able to lash things to the sides and partition things in the middle. So, I may just go for the sides, for now ... if need be the new work will be modular and removable.

 

I am debating whether I should actually pull the factory 3/8 floor up, and replace it with 3/4 inch ply and dado'd slots to go for recessed bottom rails. Right now it seems like a lot of work for no immediate gain in my daily use. I primarily need to able to lash things to the sides and partition things in the middle. So, I may just go for the sides, for now ... if need be the new work will be modular and removable.

Mine is coming up for a couple of reasons, though I don't need the floor rails.

First, the factory surface is not very abrasion resistant, nor is it very water resistant. So, the van floor comes out, Noico 80 mil goes into the grooves, a thin vapor barrier like THIS

goes down, the factory floor goes back, then it gets covered with grey coin vinyl flooring

like THIS unless I can find something less toxic. I see no downside to a floor vapor barrier, and a lot of upside to having an impermeable floor pan. I recreate around salt water as often as I can. I checked the D-rings, and those that I am not hijacking for equipment fixing points have plenty of depth on the bolts to accommodate the 3/16 or so of extra depth the two added layers will cause.

Has anyone used a different underlayment? I find the deeper floor designs unacceptable as I want to be able to be seated comfortably in the rear of Metris. The above-described solution also has the advantage of being cheap, as in well under $200.

 

I have been delayed in my progress with a couple non van things. Hoping to work on the van siding later this week / next week.
I have extra rails. Also needed to order bolts online if I want to avoid paying close to $3 a piece for Metric M8 x 1.25.

RE: liners.

Wanted to chime in that there exist Metris specific plastic wall liners. It was one of the things that popped up during the various searches this summer. I would think that if one were to mate that up with some waterproof flooring and very good silicone / waterproofing at the wheel wells; one could get something that can be hosed out. I wouldn't go as far as pressure washing. Tricky bit would be the various D ring recesses, if installed. Maybe rustproof those extra. Then make sure those cups are watertight with new flooring system. Shop vac those dry with every rinse. Which may not be too bad depending how often an interior wash is needed. Once a quarter? month?

Metris Commercial Van Liner Advantage Outfitter

Alternative thought. Deep sliding tray? Removable floor system with low walls that can be extended and washed outside of the vehicle?
All depends on what needs to be transported, how it needs to be secured, how much space needs to be retained, other build desires, budget, ...

 

I hope I never have to carry anything that requires pressure washing to clean out! I'm just trying to prevent saltwater drips from getting under the wooden floor and starting corrosion on the bed floor. I may also do a tray at the rear as so many van lifer "garages" have.

 

I totally hear you, when it comes to sand, water, salt ... as I windsurf, paddle board, etc ... and have transported all my kit in regular passenger cars and minivans, finished up during rain storms, oncoming tropical events ... -- which is coincidentally why I love lift gates ( and would have custom ordered my metris with one ) everything including me soaking wet in the car or van.

In my Chrylser T&C I had a polyurethaned 4x8 plywood floor and lined trunk box. In my Dodge GC, I had a 4x8 plywood floor with some raised edges. Siliconed joints and a couple layers of re-decking paint with sand, then at the bumper area, there was a 2ft deep x 4ft wide section section of rubber roof membrane that folded out over the bumper. Worked a treat for the snowblower in winter, plants, shrubs, ... all kinds of stuff.

When I got tired of getting the floor in or out, for the occasions of needing to transport multiple people (I actually cut it in half first to make it less bulky and then just had the trunk half), but later got rid of even the rear 4x4 treated trunk plywood floor and settled on an 80mil EPDM roof membrane / heavy duty pond liner, that was oversized, but trimmed to the shape of the vehicle.

A lot of my wet kit, in the passenger vehicle days, I would throw in plastic trunks, ... then whatever would be leaking wet ( like large sails ) I'd try to always have a good floor mat with towel to absorb moisture. With some diligence that has worked fine for decades. Of course it depends on the frequency, ability to dry out, ...

I'd probably rock a few of those large commander black tubs with yellow lids that are popular these days, to throw the small wet stuff in from the beach, etc. Back in the day it was Rubbermaid Action Packers. They still exist, but are rather thin compared to how the originals used to be made.

 

I'd probably rock a few of those large commander black tubs with yellow lids that are popular these days, to throw the small wet stuff in from the beach, etc. Back in the day it was Rubbermaid Action Packers. They still exist, but are rather thin compared to how the originals used to be made.

I still have a couple of those Action Packers for my car camping gear. I've been using dry bags to store my waders, boots or booties and other stuff as an interim solution.

 

I used these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Products-Brute-20-Gallon-80-Quart-White-Tote-with-Standard-Snap-Lid/999995044

Inexpensive, heavy duty, stack well and they come in white. Look tidy and when you have to pop them outside at the campsite they don't heat up as much as black.

 

My wall rails are now packed up and ready for anyone who wants them. Private Message me. They include all hardware, and reinforcements for the wall immediately behind the driver. My van is a 135" cargo, but I believe the rails will fit the shorter van with a simple length cut. The rails have never been used.

 

I can’t figure out how to PM you. I’m interested in the wall rails. Feel free to PM me to discuss.

 

@VanGo I figured you must have already sold the lashing rails, but checking in, just in case you haven't.

 

Yes, I sold them a while back. I believe the Metris rails are pretty standard parts. You may be able to buy rails from a generic aluminum rail vendor and cut them to length, drill the mounting holes, and install them. I don't think Mercedes parts are special in this case, but, I'm no expert.

 

As I remember, the reinforcement was just a simple sheet metal piece that held the riv-nuts. The riv-nuts were located where the holes are in the interior side panel similar to the ones in the rear panels. The steel was the same thickness as the van interior sheet metal and the only bend was where there's the 45 degree bend in that side panel behind the driver, where the two holes are. The sheet metal with riv-nuts didn't appear to be overly structural in nature, more just something to house the riv-nuts.
I would use a fairly thin piece of angle-iron, drilled for riv-nuts and placed behind the driver side sheet metal to match the pairs of holes. Mercedes only used one of each pair of holes for mounting bolts on all the rails. The angle will give it some lateral rigidity so you don't bend the van panel. But, this is just my opinion, worth everything you paid for it. 😀
If you can find a dealer with a van with rails, but no interior side panels, a cargo model, you can lay on the floor with a flashlight and look at the reinforcement piece.

 

Fun fact: I just actually looked at the wall behind the driver's seat (I'm a volunteer doing the L-track and installing panels for the new Metris that our food bank just purchased -- even though my only experience working on vehicle interiors was when I took apart most of the interior of my '98 Subaru to add Dynamat and wire up new speakers and an offboard amp), and the reinforcement sheet with rivnuts is there, held on by four bolts, just waiting for me to install the aftermarket L-track.

 

The reinforcement for cargo rails is not the same level of reinforcement found on passenger seat rails.

 

Just to clarify, we're talking about lashing rails on the walls for laterally tying cargo, not seat mounting rails that you are referring to.

 

Be aware that the black stronger metal reinforcement bar on the driver side, where the sliding door would be, is in two parts, each part held in place with two screws.
They will fall down into the cavity when you remove their two screws.

What is your plan to panel that Metris @elbrowno ?

I have the rails & plywood waiting in the garage. I am waiting for some slow time and warmer weather, so I can empty the van, look closer at making templates, and then figure out how to secure them without making any new holes nor using zip screws / bolts.

 

Be aware that the black stronger metal reinforcement bar on the driver side, where the sliding door would be, is in two parts, each part held in place with two screws.
They will fall down into the cavity when you remove their two screws.

What is your plan to panel that Metris @elbrowno ?

I have the rails & plywood waiting in the garage. I am waiting for some slow time and warmer weather, so I can empty the van, look closer at making templates, and then figure out how to secure them without making any new holes nor using zip screws / bolts.

I'm not paneling the entire wall, but just matching the factory panels that would have come with the cargo protection package. Last weekend I made the panels out of white coroplast (plasti-shield), since it's slightly translucent and therefore I could cut it close to size then hold it against the wall locations to draw in the shapes. With a box cutter and a little trial and error I was able to get a good set of panels fitted and holes punched through with an awl ... and obviously, given that I could do the latter, it was clear that these aren't strong enough to be my final product, so I'm using them as templates to create panels from 5mm luan plywood this weekend. I won't install the panels behind the driver until after I've installed the L-track rail, for the reason that you just described

 

The panels Mercedes delivered with my van looked like either cardboard coated with plastic or corrugated plastic made into a cardboard- like sheet. I wonder if one can buy that material somewhere and make her
own panels just like the ones that came with my van.
It looks like the fact that your van came with the reinforcements proves the old adage, "Its good to be smart, but better to be lucky!" Nice "find" on your part!

 

The product is Con-Pearl by Friedola Tech.

It does look like corrugated cardboard, except made with plastic instead of paper.

The part numbers, may be listed on the forum, not sure; but should be available through the dealers repair parts catalog. I did not jot them all down, when I sound proofed / deadened behind all my panels. I have a couple photos with a few codes: A447 747 12 00 and A 447 692 75 03 and A 447 747 11 00 ... there's stickers on the insides of them. Maybe that helps track them down.

There's two different types of plastic retainers, one with two parts for the lower panels, one single part for the upper panels.

I may redo my lower Con-Pearl ones in plywood, if I can manage to reuse the factory pins, as to get a wooden side that can receive a couple screw to for my wooden panel sides. I know a coarse crew will grip into it just fine. If the idea proves that it can work, I will certainly jot down the lower ones's numbers and could even do a paper template, can be photographed pretty easily, for others to have as a reference.

 

Having finally installed the rails over some additional paneling, it is high time to double confirm that:

> standard L-track will NOT line up with the MB factory holes

The structure of the track is similar but different, accessories work on both, etc but the length of the " teeth " therefor spacing of the holes in the track is different.

Only the MB Track 's holes will line up with the holes in the sides.

As can be seen here:

US L-Trac on top (rounded)
MB L-trac bottom (square)

If you get standard track without holes, the teeth will get in the way to drill your holes at the required MB spacing and certainly to insert the bolts.

It may not look too bad in the photo, where I tried to align both based on the third or fourth hole. Outward from that it gets progressively worse. If you start at one end ... you get the idea.

 

L-Track Bed Tiedown System

This is an alternative to the Unistrut / Superstrut system described in another thread. Pics, then a few notes after …. NOTE ON POUND RATINGS - I've included the spec working load rating just to give a relative idea of the system strength; obviously, actual capacity will be limited...

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

That thread shows how this person mounted an L track to factory locations where the bolt hole may have ended up at a tooth location. Has a clever trick of mounting some headless set screws in the factory locations and tapping the L track to transfer the locations.