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I have the same controller and I cant get it to work. You need 12 volts at the pin at about 1:00 position. Like you, I'm very impressed how this thing tows. And the good part is, you use the van as storage when you camp.


Thought I’d share my experiences because this thread was pretty helpful months ago-

We live in a 2011 Airstream Sport, 3500lb dry, 4600lb fully loaded; actual weight probably halfway between. After much deliberation over a tow vehicle we decided to go for a used Metris, as long as we could find one with the factory tow package to reduce complication. And shockingly enough, we did! A 2016 dealer-owned Passenger. Love it.

I do have some towing experience, though mostly with a LWB Sprinter hauling a small materials trailer, or a jacked up F250 V10 Diesel hauling a 26 foot trash trailer. So I ‘get’ it, albeit via weird proportions.

So our first tow was 90 miles, almost all highway from east of Houston to south of Houston. Thankfully pretty flat.

Went with the Equal-i-zer hitch for weight distribution & sway control, and I did get a brake controller(Tekonsha RF Prodigy), but not in time to install it. So how’d it do?

Great! Honestly, wish I had more to report. Backup camera hitch-cam mode for hooking up is a godsend. 30-40 miles of the trip through some pretty heavy rain, but driving didn’t feel any different. Took my time but was able to do highway speeds easily— averaged 16.5mpg, handled solid as ****, had enough power, brakes definitely worked well enough without the trailer brakes. Tire pressures on the Metris dropped 2-8 psi afterwards, but nothing to be alarmed by. Even backed it into the spot at our new RV park. Pleased as punch.
 
Am still confused as to the electric trailer brake controller owners are using on the Metris? Is the wireless Tekonsha RF Prodigy the only option? Does any model year without the PSM module mean electric brake controllers cannot be used? Can the PSM be added to a van that doesn't have one?
Sorry for my confusion on this issue, I have read many answers on this forum and understand that the OEM hitch can be added to a van that was not equipped from the factory with one but I do not understand the trailer brake controller issue.
 
Am still confused as to the electric trailer brake controller owners are using on the Metris? Is the wireless Tekonsha RF Prodigy the only option? Does any model year without the PSM module mean electric brake controllers cannot be used? Can the PSM be added to a van that doesn't have one?
Sorry for my confusion on this issue, I have read many answers on this forum and understand that the OEM hitch can be added to a van that was not equipped from the factory with one but I do not understand the trailer brake controller issue.
Hi there: I have an 2018 cargo 135 WB with hitch, no PSM. Several bits. First, the 2019 hitch pkg includes a proper trailer brake connection.

To your questions, the PSM is necessary if you wish to avoid the Tekonsha. I am speaking from memory, but am reasonably confident I recall this from one of the upfitter guides. You cannot after-fit the PSM. To confirm, the Metris Ordering Guide states that you need the PSM module to allow for brakes. The towing package does not come with the PSM automatically.

If you're adventurous, one post said:

"Here's how he did it: I installed a trailer brake in a new Metris last week. The biggest issue I had was finding a 12v “trigger “ for the brake control unit. Since our vehicles no longer have an on/off stop lamp switch, it is not possible to use it as you would in most vehicles. We were able to find a wire going from the ESP to the SAM labeled BL_SIG (BKVT) has 12v on it when the brakes are applied. It is pin position 2 at the ESP. The wiring diagram for the SAM is confusing it says that the wire is at pin position 29 for connector B1 but it is the connector that is nearest the “M” on the SAM. After connecting the brake controller to this wire I checked to be certain that the connection did not cause any faults in any systems. Both the vehicle and the brake controller seemed happy."

Good luck and post your success!
 
Thanks for the information! The van I am considering does not have the factory hitch or PSM. It is a 2016 for sale at a Mercedes dealer & I would only purchase it if the OEM hitch install can be negotiated per another posters advice. The Metris is already low to the ground, cannot imagine installing a hitch that would reduce ground clearance. With this vehicle sounds like I need the Tekonsha. Once installed does the Tekonsha allow for use with any trailer with a 7 pin connection or does the trailer require some type of sending unit to be installed on it?
 
I use the Tekonsha RF on my 2018 Metris and it's the best I've had on my 28' travel trailer since 1992. The unit is mounted on the trailer, gets its power from the 7-way and you adjust the gain etc from the RF hand set inside. As far as I can tell, brake activation occurs when both trailer brake lights are on (via the 7-way) as they will also be applied intermittently when you put on your Hazard lights. No way around it (unless you want to invent some clever logic circuitry), so you have to turn your gain way down when going slow with hazards. The unit mounts on the trailer, so it can be towed by any vehicle with a 7-way, just move the hand set. Alternatively, I have moved the unit to a different trailer (temporarily but securely gorilla taped in place) and it worked perfectly.
 
Has anyone used the Curt "Echo" mobile wireless controller that is controlled by your smart phone? I found it on etrailer.com and watched a demo video. I called etrailer.com to ask about what happens in a low speed flashers on scenario and they indicated it can distinguish the flash from actual brake application.
This seems like a great solution to the trailer brake controller conundrum many have experienced with the Metris. You can use this on any trailer with a 7 pin connection with any vehicle that also has a 7 pin, you download the app, sync it to your phone, and you are set to tow with your phone as the brake controller! No More mounting controller boxes or brackets, seems amazing to me! Would like to hear if any Metris owners have used it?
 
Actually, it doesn't distinguish between the brake lights and the flasher. The Hazard override just turns the brakes off and you have to use the manual override to apply the trailer brakes, so not a lot different from how I use the Tekonsha RF (up the gain again) but admittedly more convenient.


https://www.etrailer.com/question-334867.html?fb=yes
 
liftgate question

Thought I’d share my experiences because this thread was pretty helpful months ago-

We live in a 2011 Airstream Sport, 3500lb dry, 4600lb fully loaded; actual weight probably halfway between. After much deliberation over a tow vehicle we decided to go for a used Metris, as long as we could find one with the factory tow package to reduce complication. And shockingly enough, we did! A 2016 dealer-owned Passenger. Love it.
I saw the pictures of your Metris towing an Airstream, love it! We are ordering a Metris passenger van to tow our Bowlus Road Chief.

I was wondering if your van's rear liftgate can open while the trailer is attached?

You've got that Equal-i-zer hitch on there which is different from ours so it's not a perfect comparison. But still worth an ask.
 
Towing hitch height question. Does anyone know the height of the Metris installed hitch? Our trailer’s recommended ball height is 17.5 inches (plus or minus 1 inch) we’re curious if our hitch will be stepping up or down, and trying to get insight into whether the liftgate will clear it.
 
You might look at a Curt D-28 which is extended with a 4" rise. If you need an equalizing hitch you might have to get something welded up at a trailer hitch specialist. The longer the extension, however, the more it might affect the handling of your car. (just my thoughts)
 
Just measured mine.
top of the drawbar is about 11.5"
top of the ball is about 15"
ball mount has a 3/4" rise
Thank you so much! Couldn't find that info anywhere!
So, since you're at 15", and we're going to be at 16.5-18.5", and I think from that picture that you have the liftgate, I gotta ask if your liftgate clears while your trailer is attached? And if so, by how much?
Trying to decide which rear door to get, and want to be sure we have direct access to the back without unhooking our trailer.
 
Thank you so much! Couldn't find that info anywhere!
So, since you're at 15", and we're going to be at 16.5-18.5", and I think from that picture that you have the liftgate, I gotta ask if your liftgate clears while your trailer is attached? And if so, by how much?
Trying to decide which rear door to get, and want to be sure we have direct access to the back without unhooking our trailer.
If you are open to barn doors I'd get the 270's. Most functional for camping and such since you can put a tent on the back and fold the doors against the van. I personally don't like the look of the rear of the van with barn doors and want the lift gate for a rain shield. Barn doors are also good for gaining rear exit from inside the van. Really probably a lot more practical than the lift gate overall, but the looks is just more utilitarian. The lift gate makes it look more like a minivan.
 
With the Hensley hitch, (h1) the trailer is back farther about 16" so clearance is not a problem - would be otherwise.
For my landscape trailer, I removed the center jack and put one back farther on the side (h3).
For my Boler, the jack isn't a problem, but the liftgate might hit the trailer itself. I would need a long draw bar.
With the trailer for our club float, there's no way to open the back. I pull the middle row of seats and everything goes in and out via the side doors.
There are times when I wish I had the barn doors. Probably a better choice if you trailer a lot.
 

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If you are open to barn doors I'd get the 270's. Most functional for camping and such since you can put a tent on the back and fold the doors against the van. I personally don't like the look of the rear of the van with barn doors and want the lift gate for a rain shield. Barn doors are also good for gaining rear exit from inside the van. Really probably a lot more practical than the lift gate overall, but the looks is just more utilitarian. The lift gate makes it look more like a minivan.
As for looks, I would always prefer "utilitarian" to "minivan." But in my opinion the case for the lift gate isn't the view from the outside - it's the view from the inside. Rear visibility is dramatically better. The center obstruction of the barn doors is big enough to hide the car behind you. I think the lift gate seals better as well.
 
Towing hitch height question. Does anyone know the height of the Metris installed hitch? Our trailer’s recommended ball height is 17.5 inches (plus or minus 1 inch) we’re curious if our hitch will be stepping up or down, and trying to get insight into whether the liftgate will clear it.
You have probably figured it out on your own, but the answer to your question is no.
Not only are you going to need a 3-4 inch riser to get up to the ball hight, but you may need an additional 2-3 inch rise to compensate for the rear squat once you put the tongue weight on the hitch.
In addition, as was pointed out by imacd, your tongue jack is going to be in the way.
I would recommend against any sort of extension, you are merely creating a lever. Not good, in many ways.
My suggestion is to find a way to access your stuff from the passenger side door.
 
Sadly 270 doors aren't available anymore on the 2019 Passenger. But thank you all for the help, esp imacd for the pics! Being able to get this info will really help me make a better decision on a long term, $$$ purchase! You're all the best!!
 
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