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I too need to gently disagree with @MOWO on the factory auxiliary battery. MOWO is right that the factory aux will not alone serve your power needs for most camping, but it adds a VERY convenient location to tap power -- although it is very doable to tap under the passenger seat. I also like having it as a back up to my LiFePO4 house battery, i.e., ~50 Ah of reserve power if needed.
Fair enough. It depends on how you're going to setup it up. As you get into higher power draw and charging amps, 'tapping' off the aux batt is particularly something to consider when you will have a 40-60A+ DC (alternator) to DC charging system. Longer cable length means more of a voltage drop and now you have two OEM batteries in-line before the DC-DC charger.
Additionally, you can't count of the oem aux battery being 50Ah of reserve as the factory system doesn't have any charging profile/management in place. Depending on the state and 'aging' of the start battery, it could leave the the aux batt in a less than optimal charge state any or all the time.
It probably worth saying you shouldn't mix battery chemistries with a single charger. Personally, I feel that $ saving on the Metris price can go to something with less weight, more Ah capacity, and simplicity in power delivery/charging.
 
Get the Aux. battery. It gets charged when the car is running and isolates when parked so you don't run your starter battery down. You can add to it or swap it out later if you want and not worry about charging or depleting the main battery.
 
Thanks for all the input. Trailer hitch is a good call. The electrics/battery options are still the big question mark. I had wanted to add an all-in-one portable power device like the Goal Zero Yeti or Eco Flow River Pro with a remote solar panel for recharging. It would reduce the need for wiring since inputs, outputs, inverter, and solar controller are all in one box. It could be used in an emergency at home when the power grid fails (tornado or ice storm) to power the cooler and recharge my phone. The solar panel sitting on the ground means no climbing on the roof to clean/inspect it, and I can park in the shade. The drawback is the high temperatures inside vehicles when parked in the sun in the summertime are not good for the battery according to the manufacturer. I don't yet know if it is a serious concern. The portable power supply can be recharged via the auxiliary battery, shore power, or solar panel. Has anyone tried this kind of setup?

I looked at the L-track with bolts and decided that it might make more sense to use the factory installed weld nuts to attach L-shaped corner brackets to 1 inch square (1010 series) 80/20 aluminum. I will build the structural frame from aluminum then attach plywood for shelving and countertops. I want to be safe from flying items if somebody hits my van. I will have a very simple layout of 18-inch-deep cabinets under the windows the full cargo area length behind the driver's seat. Will run cabinets for 6 feet on the passenger side but not sure on the depth. With cabinets in place, I can still put plywood, sheetrock, etc. vertically in the center aisle.

The pop top makes the vehicle much easier to cool with screened windows in the tent above and screened windows in the car below. It also makes standing up possible vs. always sitting on something to cook. Right now the GTRV pop top is my favorite.

Between windows and pop top, I just insulate the lower half of the walls, the doors, and the headliner. I figure out the electrics. I build my cabinets. Until then, I can still put ice in a cooler, some gear in back, and head out for short adventures. As each part gets completed, the adventures will just get more enjoyable.

P.S. I am an optimist.
A portable power supply is a good idea and cost effective.
 
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