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Wednesday I finalize my order.

3K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  focus805 
#1 ·
I have been thinking about a van conversion for several years. I had looked at the larger vans and other minivans but kept hesitating until I visited a Mercedes dealership last month. The Metris fits my needs better than anything else I have encountered. I need to haul 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, sheetrock, doors and other stuff home from the hardware store, and I need to solo camp for month long trips.

My camping design point is not a small house but, instead, a bear-proof tent (I plan on visiting Alaska someday for its awesome national parks). I have done a lot of camping over the years and want an easy set-up (getting lazier in my "old" age). I plan to use multiple jugs with stopcocks for drinking and cooking water. Cooking will be via a propane stove with a Whisperlight backpacking stove (white gas) for backup. A cooler running on DC 12 v power and some LED lighting is my main electrical requirement. No bathroom beyond a solar shower and emergency use cassette toilet.

I have decided to go with the 135-wheelbase cargo van, a pop top roof, a tailgate with window, aftermarket windows that open, comfort seats (lumbar support) with aftermarket swivel base, 17 inch wheels, cruise control, auxiliary battery, and the 190 v alternator.

I have been reading the posts on batteries, bodybuilder, and wiring to understand what the bodybuilder option gets me. Still confused. I also don't know if I need the A/C enhancement. I live in Texas so August means triple digit heat.

I plan to build my own cabinetry but get the pros to add the pop top and windows. Thank you for all of the posts on outfitters and aftermarket products.

I tend to design with graph paper, pencil, and big eraser before a mockup with cardboard boxes before implementation. Right now, I have a lot of ideas but need my actual vehicle to finalize a design.

Any comments on what I have posted so far will be considered helpful.
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to MetrisForum!

Frequent ply-wood / home center and garden center hauler here. Mine is just setup for DIY or moving stuff. I think your Metris will make for a wonderful solo traveler van, with good gas mileage. I like the old school paper design and cardboard mockup idea. One of my favorite YouTubers - Humble Road - uses that method religiously when he converts Sprinters, then ProMasters & the small PM City van now ... I actually need to check out what he did with it ( there was a hiatus in postings when they changed buildings, and he needed to finish a few big vans. ) YT Playlist https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOMLY9dV23JO7s1rdFDbD9z_C9TGNDIvD ).

135 is the best choice to me.

Tailgate for camping will be ideal, as that gives you an instant 48 x 48 -ish awning. With glass you can see out while driving and while occupying the vehicle. Would absolutely do that. And with some ingenuity you can setup a shower curtain, or screen room for extended living space.

You probably want the extra battery under the driver's seat and body builder option, to get that extra wiring and fuse box to tap into. I am not familiar with it myself, but I'm sure one of the other people with a conversion will chime in.

Mounting wise, to give something to bolts cabinets to, you may want the MB Lashing Rails. Then with the right track fitting with bolts, you can fasten stuff back to it.

Here's a discussion on Enhanced A/C.https://www.metrisforum.com/threads/enhanced-ac-package-worth-it.7258/
Probably a smart choice for a long term travel vehicle, warming summer trends, and cooling the whole van down.

Exciting stuff. I already look forward to seeing your build progress, once you have the van and get started.
 
#3 ·
Welcome aboard! 2018 135 solo camper here, no pop-top, but same otherwise -- propane stove used outside, ICECO VL45Pro, 7 gallon Reliance Aqua-Tainer, see my signature block for more.

Definitely get the EK1 body builder connector and X27 additional battery (with cutoff relay and 190A Euro6 alternator). Neither the EK1 or X27 can be retrofitted. You'll want the EK1 to run an ignition sense wire from a DC-DC charger to any add-on batteries, or appliances like a dash cam. The EK1 runs off the starter battery, not the auxiliary, and I found that counterintuitive.

Also, I don't believe the HO9 air conditioning, enhanced power is available on a Cargo. The HO0 warm/cool air duct to rear compartment for $67 is useful, but it slightly cuts into the walk-through space between the seats, if that matters to you. I have it and I am pleased. FZ8 Remote Opening/Closing of Windows is handy too. and cheap at $44. Q24 trailer hitch is also a bargain at $396 (compared to trying to do it aftermarket). I'd get the MS-1 cruise control alone or as part of a package.

Tailgates are a matter of preference and a fair amount of debate. I ordered the 270 degree barn doors because of rear clearance and the convenience of going in and out frequently and easily while camped. The barn doors are far lighter individually than the tailgate, and the 270's fold flat against the side of the van via magnets. I'll often pin the driver's side barn door open for access while parked, but I like being able to open the passenger side barn door frequently and with little effort. Again, a matter of preference. I haven't tried a tailgate in the rain, although my old Eurovan had one and it was convenient at my kids' rainy soccer games. I doubt it's much use in anything but a light sprinkle as the interior will get wet in wind and rain.

I'd recommend the VV2 Lashing Rails, floor-level (plus 4 anchors) for $231 unless you plan to fully cover the walls. I added them aftermarket from MB at substantially greater expense. I think the VV2 includes the very useful floor rails, but check with your dealer.

I bought the LC2 rear LED light strip. Convenient sometimes, but overpriced at $221 and rarely used now that I have house electrics installed

Last, also a matter of choice, I absolutely love the CO8 cold weather package. Heated seats and mirrors and extra-large 1.58 gallon heated windshield washer reservoir and nozzles, and extra insulation. Those seats are an awesome way to warm on cold camping mornings.

All these codes come from the 2022 Dealer Ordering Guide, which you should definitely review. It should be online here somewhere.

Have fun!!! I love my Metris for camping.
 
#5 ·
If you're doing any camping off grid you might think about adding solar. Also, (I'm no expert), but I get the feeling that the larger diameter wheels are for better handling on paved surfaces. 16" wheels might give more choice for a higher profile beefier tire? Others might have an opinion...
 
#6 ·
PS: Absolutely get the factory towing, should the need ever arise for you tow anything, or carry something extra.

Roof rails are cheap future proofing too. I have inexpensive roof bars on stand-by in case I need to carry a ladder or such.

While you plan on sound dampening, dampen the front roof too … my square bars are quite loud in the cabin when they’re in use.
 
#7 ·
Welcome and glad to meet another solo camper. I will say first that let me be the first to offer to think twice about ordering the factory aux battery. It is very limited in what it can provide for camping and you have already mentioned 12v fridge...I'm sure other electrical creature comforts will come into play as your van camping journey expands. Everyone off-grid power needs will differ. Just know any AGM battery such as the OEM it's recommended to not deplete it more than 50% and only about 80% DoD if you want it to have a long life (5+yrs). So thats about drawing only 20-45amps total discharge before some form of significant recharge is needed. I'd say roll your own battery bank with lithium (LiFePo4) and 48vDC systems IS the future. Coupled to solar panels and power needs will not be a problem.
Like member focus805, I have 270 doors and I personally feel its the most versatile of the options. It's easy to make 'awning' over the door with a refletix and a cargo bar. I do it all the time when setting up my production gear on site and the doors keep the wind at bay and creates more shade depending on how the sun is set in the sky.
Since you're in the South, do consider your cooling options. How well do you handle heat? Remember the more windows, the more heat transfer. I bought my van with no windows rear or side with the thoughts of adding 'rv-style' glass at a later time. It's been 6 years now and I still haven't found a real desire to. If I want to see outside I'll look out the front or open a door. From doing all types of van camping, I just have come to like the complete privacy and security no rear glass offers. Plus more surface is insulated (HIGHLY recommend 3M Thinsulate) so I have more control over efficient cooling and heating.
I don't have a pop top so that may play out differently than my standard roof. As others have stated, just get the tow package as it offers advantages that your can't retrofit later. I think blind spot monitoring is standard now, but I am so so glad I had that option. That feature has saved me for near collisions many many times.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
. I will say first that let me be the first to offer to think twice about ordering the factory aux battery.
Order it to get the hold down under the seat. You can replace the AGM with Lifepo4 in the same spot.

100% lift gate if you are camping. Every van upfitter will say the same.

Distronic. Non electric seats. Cold weather. Psm. Hitch. Safety. Track. Etc. Very few items if actually skip.
 
#11 ·
Got it, and I recall Harley's comment now. Why recommend non-electric seats then -- just the expense?
 
#13 ·
Thanks for all the input. Trailer hitch is a good call. The electrics/battery options are still the big question mark. I had wanted to add an all-in-one portable power device like the Goal Zero Yeti or Eco Flow River Pro with a remote solar panel for recharging. It would reduce the need for wiring since inputs, outputs, inverter, and solar controller are all in one box. It could be used in an emergency at home when the power grid fails (tornado or ice storm) to power the cooler and recharge my phone. The solar panel sitting on the ground means no climbing on the roof to clean/inspect it, and I can park in the shade. The drawback is the high temperatures inside vehicles when parked in the sun in the summertime are not good for the battery according to the manufacturer. I don't yet know if it is a serious concern. The portable power supply can be recharged via the auxiliary battery, shore power, or solar panel. Has anyone tried this kind of setup?

I looked at the L-track with bolts and decided that it might make more sense to use the factory installed weld nuts to attach L-shaped corner brackets to 1 inch square (1010 series) 80/20 aluminum. I will build the structural frame from aluminum then attach plywood for shelving and countertops. I want to be safe from flying items if somebody hits my van. I will have a very simple layout of 18-inch-deep cabinets under the windows the full cargo area length behind the driver's seat. Will run cabinets for 6 feet on the passenger side but not sure on the depth. With cabinets in place, I can still put plywood, sheetrock, etc. vertically in the center aisle.

The pop top makes the vehicle much easier to cool with screened windows in the tent above and screened windows in the car below. It also makes standing up possible vs. always sitting on something to cook. Right now the GTRV pop top is my favorite.

Between windows and pop top, I just insulate the lower half of the walls, the doors, and the headliner. I figure out the electrics. I build my cabinets. Until then, I can still put ice in a cooler, some gear in back, and head out for short adventures. As each part gets completed, the adventures will just get more enjoyable.

P.S. I am an optimist.
 
#23 ·
A portable power supply is a good idea and cost effective.
 
#16 ·
80/20 aluminum with through bolts into the factory nuts for the Tracks is a great option too. One can indeed save the cost of the tracks then.

I was thinking multi purpose, part year camper, part year DIY and for that the lashing points on the track can be handy.
D-rings under cabinets can be repositioned on the 80/20, providing attachment points for cargo straps. Center aisle will be between 24 and 36 inches wide with cabinets in place so lots of room for DIY materials. I try not to buy more than I have the energy to unload.
 
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