[redlightning]

So, I have acquired a pair of Sportscraft swivel seat adapters for the front. The problem is the existing seat wiring isn't quite long enough to reach through the new routing. I'm planning on extending the wires by either cutting and soldering in splices, or possibly (if I can find the part) build an extension using connectors so I don't have to cut the factory wiring.

1) Can someone look up what gauge wire is used for the airbag/seatbelt wires and for the seat heater? There isn't enough wire exposed to read the insulation markings.

2) Can I purchase the wiring plug/receptacles from Mercedes? (I probably should check on this one myself, but I figured I'd ask)

Thanks!

 

[RobbMeeX]

1) Oh man, what a pain in the ass.
2) Yes. Less so, but still pain in the ass.

 

[redlightning]

...Yeah, pretty much. How many wires are there?? 10, 12? Plus the 2 for seat heaters. That's gonna be a lot of soldering and heat shrinking, and x2. I think they can be installed by extreme rerouting of the wires, but they will still be too taught for my taste.

 

[RobbMeeX]

I don't mean to sound discouraging, but even trying to do simple wiring repairs on say an 08 C-class, where it should be well documented, I have to measure wire diameters and then bring them to parts. Also the pins and sockets need to be matched as EPC is not great in listing them.

 

[redlightning]

Yeah, they look pretty small, like 22GA, but who knows. I'll probably end up oversizing them, maybe 18GA.

What about airbag deployment ignition? Is there extra insulation on those wires for high voltage? They all have the same OD.

 

[RobbMeeX]

No, its just a 12+vdc signal to the ignitors. (Ignition, though, does normally fry the wires.)

 

[Imants]

I had swivel seat installed on the passenger side by Keystone Coach in Eugene, OR a week ago.
Took him about one hour or so. Apparently no wire problems with his swivels. He imports them from Germany. Cost was $795 total. Google Metris Keystone for his WEB SITE.

 

[redlightning]

I had swivel seat installed on the passenger side by Keystone Coach in Eugene, OR a week ago.
Took him about one hour or so. Apparently no wire problems with his swivels. He imports them from Germany. Cost was $795 total. Google Metris Keystone for his WEB SITE.

That's cool. Can you post a photo from under your seat? Any idea what brand? Mine are Sportscraft from Germany, imported from a French RV outfitter company.

 

[braddo]

I have the RIB swivels. The wire runs between the seat base and adapter then up through the center pivot hole. If I remember correctly, with the wire secured to the bottom of the seat using all the wire clips the wires were just long enough to allow rotation. I had to be careful when rotating not to slide the seat too far forward or back or it would tug on the wires. Leaving a couple of the wire clips dangling allowed me a little more freedom to slide while rotating. I don't have heated seats.

 

[Bluemerc]

Easiest resolve for the wiring is to dismount the wire connector that is attached to the seat base and face it towards the rear of the seat and zip tie it in place for stability. You have to remove the plastic mount that they are in so that you can get to the release tabs for those connectors then they just slide out. Once they're facing rearwards you'll have plenty of wire. Best to use some protective wire wrap on the harness so you'll have no ware issues as well.

 

[redlightning]

I'm finally getting back to these swivel adapters. I should have waited and bought the RIB brand, but I wasn't sure where to find them at the time and a local van upfitter had these so I picked them up then.

I don't have photos, but these Sportscraft brand plates are really hefty. They weigh more than the seat and have gussets and u-channels welded to the plates for added strength. After some work this week on them (lots of grinding since the ends of the u-channels interfere with the seat base), it is clear the wiring will be pinched between the seat base and one of these u-channels, so I'll have to re-route through a new hole in the seat base and likely require extension of the wires. I also contemplated cutting out the middle of the u-channel to make a clear path.

I'm not excited about messing with the wiring, but I did find a great option for splicing the wires if I do still go through with it and I thought it would be worth sharing: https://www.grainger.com/product/TE-CONNECTIVITY-22-to-18-AWG-Splice-Connector-10K486. These solder-loaded splices are waterproof and the lowest resistance connection possible.

 

[Lala2]

I used the RIB swivels and followed peter Thomsen's step by step instructions here on the forum. I was concerned about the wire length even after all of the releasing and fixing that peter mentioned. Because kids have a way of testing the limits of just about everything, I wanted to rest easy. I did release more of the wire and wire housing by cutting more of the fix point zip ties etc. I then loosely fixed the wiring with a combination of zip ties and large Velcro ties. I made sure to move the seat to all the various extremes to ensure wire position safety etc. I'd say that I'd go take some photos for you but my phone camera ain't great. If you take another look at the fixation points, I think that you might be able to get what you need out of the existing wires.

 

[redlightning]

I finally installed my Sportscraft swivel seats!! It was one of the most difficult things I've done on a car and I probably would have decided against them if I knew how much work it was going to take...or just use the Scopema adapters. I had already bought them though and figured I needed to get them in.

These Sportscraft bases are heavy-duty and weigh about as much as the whole seat does. Each base has two keyed parts that fit up when facing forward and prevent the plates from separating in a forward collision even if the little plastic swivel wheels crush. However, they have many fitment flaws which required trial and error with the angle grinder. They wouldn't "seat" completely on the battery/seat boxes without removing the ends of a shallow c-channel welded to the plate and a few other adjustments. Again, these things seem bomb-proof, so that's at least one positive.

I also had to extend the wiring harness about 2 ft and reroute through holes I popped through the back of the battery compartments using a conduit knockout. There simply was no way to make it work since the swivel bases are full squares of metal (unlike Scopema bow-tie shape) and would pinch the wires and not seat completely if I had left them on top of the box. I ended up measuring the wire OD, looking up wire overall ODs in a European manufacturer catalog to find the closest matching conductor size (in mm2), and finally converting the size to the next largest AWG. I wanted to share the wiring part, since it's applicable across the whole vehicle. From what I can tell, MB uses a wire equivalent to SAE J1128 "TXL" vehicle wire—this has cross-linked polyethylene insulation (like PEX water tubing), which is an excellent choice to resist thermal, abrasive, and chemical environments. My assessment proved accurate and the 18, 14, and 12 AWG wires I preordered were either just right or slightly oversized. Connections were made using solder-loaded heat shrink tubes with waterproofing bands also rated for -40 to 125°C, same as the wire. The whole thing was wrapped up with abrasion resistant wire sleeve and a grommet fitted into the new hole in the battery box. Fits perfectly.

Van is back together with swivels

 

[focus805]

Wow, those really are monsters! The plates look almost 3/8 thick? Nice work and commendations for bravery attacking the wiring. I had to do that job once when I mistakenly cut the back up alarm and instrument cluster wiring on my kid's dirtbag rock climber E250 extended, but the wires were like the thickness of human hair.

Anyway, these pix remind me of the standard stereotype old school American vs. Euro design. We build 'em big and heavy (these swivels, P-47s, V-8 engines, NFL, etc.) and the Euros go for minimalist high design and lightweight (SCOPEMA swivels, Bf109G, 2.0l turbo in a van, Premier League, etc.).

 

[redlightning]

Anyway, these pix remind me of the standard stereotype old school American vs. Euro design. We build 'em big and heavy (these swivels, P-47s, V-8 engines, NFL, etc.) and the Euros go for minimalist high design and lightweight (SCOPEMA swivels, Bf109G, 2.0l turbo in a van, Premier League, etc.).

Haha, yeah about right. These are supposedly designed in Germany (http://www.sportscraft.de/). I did note though that @waterjerome commented on the reduced rigidity of the seats after install of the RIB/Scopema ones (https://www.metrisforum.com/forum/3...l-seat-adapter-installation-4.html#post102440). I don't sense that at all with these :smile: