[1681]

So I've been holding off on this one till I put some miles on it but it's now been 1200 trouble free.
I bought and installed Burger Tuning's W205 Beta box. It's a fairly simple install minus the time it takes to put the brain in a seemingly water free location. Mine is currently zip tied to the wiper assembly until further tinkering.
It intercepts the boost sensor signal and substitutes it's own value and we'll as cam timing signal. The result is a stronger pull all around. It's closer to the C300 now. I test fit my box to a CLA before installing and it was downright beastly!
If anyone is interested, I can walk you though the install, but it's pretty straightforward if you follow the W205 directions.

Oh, and let's preempt everyone's first question: Warranty. I guess mine is in the trash huh? Call your dealer and find out their policy. Ours knows Benz owners spend a lot of money on these dang things and therefore as long as the customer is happy, they're happy. Good surveys is number one. I'll have another thread where we can chat all about that.

 

[Benz05tsx]

That is awesome!! I didn't know you can make this thing faster. Would love to see more in the future

 

[MOWO]

Good surveys is number one. I'll have another thread where we can chat all about that.

When's this thread coming?

 

[1681]

Sorry guys, I've been slacking on forum'ing.

Or just ask few questions here: how much? how long to get to SoCal? DIY possible? If so, how much time needed? Change in MPG?

It was just under $400 from burgertuning.com, as long as it takes for them to ship it, Def DIY. It took me a couple hours only because I had to figure out wire routing and the first try didn't leave enough slack. Have found no noticeable change in MPG. Although I do have racecar stuff on this thing, I drive very moderately.

From memory: pull the wiper cowl seal off towards you. It seals the hood against the cowl. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the hood prop holder. This creates slack enough to get your hand under the cowl. There is a rubber plug to remove that separates the engine bay from the under cowl area. Run your wire loom into the engine bay. Next remove the airbox (flathead). The cam connector is under the foam engine pad. Its the intake cam it plugs into. Look down below the throttle body (front engine bay toward right) and that is your tmap connection, the final connection requires removing the ME. I suggest unhooking the battery as I threw a code leaving the battery hooked up. That probably should have been the first instruction. Anyway, the rear of the intake manifold has that pressure sensor that gets connected.

Read Burger tuning's instructions a few times then apply these and it should make sense. I ended up zip tying the box to the back of the wiper linkage. It won't get rained on, but I do find it damp after a carwash (blowdry)

 

[DKTVAV]

Sorry guys, I've been slacking on forum'ing.



It was just under $400 from burgertuning.com, as long as it takes for them to ship it, Def DIY. It took me a couple hours only because I had to figure out wire routing and the first try didn't leave enough slack. Have found no noticeable change in MPG. Although I do have racecar stuff on this thing, I drive very moderately.

From memory: pull the wiper cowl seal off towards you. It seals the hood against the cowl. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the hood prop holder. This creates slack enough to get your hand under the cowl. There is a rubber plug to remove that separates the engine bay from the under cowl area. Run your wire loom into the engine bay. Next remove the airbox (flathead). The cam connector is under the foam engine pad. Its the intake cam it plugs into. Look down below the throttle body (front engine bay toward right) and that is your tmap connection, the final connection requires removing the ME. I suggest unhooking the battery as I threw a code leaving the battery hooked up. That probably should have been the first instruction. Anyway, the rear of the intake manifold has that pressure sensor that gets connected.

Read Burger tuning's instructions a few times then apply these and it should make sense. I ended up zip tying the box to the back of the wiper linkage. It won't get rained on, but I do find it damp after a carwash (blowdry)

Thanks for the instructions!

 

[DKTVAV]

Just checked their website:

And when trying to check out:

 

[1681]

Gotta pay to play to guess.

You need an outside Kalifornia contact.

 

[flacaproductions]

$38k in taxes! ha! So much for that idea...(I wonder if it would pass emissions...)

 

[Homer]

Jeez I knew taxes were hiking but that's intense... But racecar is life so order away ! Lol !!

But the waiver I agree with. Once you put this on, I'm sure you're on the brink of not being road legal anymore, so strictly the track for you guys. Helmets and gear please

 

[1681]

You guys don't wear your helmets and gear normally?

 

[warren]

Just wait till someone comes around and does this to their Metris... it will be game over.

 

[Homer]

No No No, you need something like this guy. Hes pulling the wheels !
Warning: Video shot with a potato

 

[daveyboy70]

DAJIBAN

https://youtu.be/7U2BC5sOltU

 

[poondangle]

Anybody done the waistec w247 ecu upgrade?

 

[boz]

Somewhat relevant but pretty cool. A good Oh $#!t moment near the end of the video.

https://lucidmotors.com/stories/edna-gets-upgrade

 

[MOWO]

Sorry guys, I've been slacking on forum'ing.



It was just under $400 from burgertuning.com, as long as it takes for them to ship it, Def DIY. It took me a couple hours only because I had to figure out wire routing and the first try didn't leave enough slack. Have found no noticeable change in MPG. Although I do have racecar stuff on this thing, I drive very moderately.

From memory: pull the wiper cowl seal off towards you. It seals the hood against the cowl. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the hood prop holder. This creates slack enough to get your hand under the cowl. There is a rubber plug to remove that separates the engine bay from the under cowl area. Run your wire loom into the engine bay. Next remove the airbox (flathead). The cam connector is under the foam engine pad. Its the intake cam it plugs into. Look down below the throttle body (front engine bay toward right) and that is your tmap connection, the final connection requires removing the ME. I suggest unhooking the battery as I threw a code leaving the battery hooked up. That probably should have been the first instruction. Anyway, the rear of the intake manifold has that pressure sensor that gets connected.

Read Burger tuning's instructions a few times then apply these and it should make sense. I ended up zip tying the box to the back of the wiper linkage. It won't get rained on, but I do find it damp after a carwash (blowdry)

Robb, have you made a more permanent location for the box? Been thinking of doing add-on for a while, but I'm super hesitant at going under the hood. So who's going to make a How-To Video? I'm more of a visual guy.

 

[MOWO]

Anybody done the waistec w247 ecu upgrade?

link to product?

 

[poondangle]

Apparently I need more than 2 posts before I can post a link, so this is a wasted post

 

[poondangle]

It still won't let me post a link. Just go to the weistec site, search for m274 ecu upgrade

 

[MOWO]

It still won't let me post a link. Just go to the weistec site, search for m274 ecu upgrade

Thanks. Meh, I don't know about that upgrade only providing 11 more HP...obviously YMMV with the Metris. I'd go all out if I could get a 'kit' that results in an empty cargo van in the low 6s 0-60 :grin: