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Discussion Starter #1
As much as we love the OEM hitch over an aftermarket one because of the ground clearance, the placement of the trailer wiring harness is pretty bad. It sits at an angle less than an inch away from the hitch pin hole, which interferes with most hitch locks or accessories. I can't lock my bike rack or use the hitch lock I prefer since it sits so close. So I'm pondering relocating it.

The metal tab currently welded onto the hitch that holds the wiring harness can be taken off with a Dremel. That's the easy part. I'm thinking about having the tab welded directly onto the hitch, either further back on the hitch or on the bar behind the bumper.

Option 2 is to use one of the aftermarket adapter plates, like the one from Curt. That may take a bit more creativity.

Anyone done this yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
At some point this year, I became frustrated with the placement of the trailer wiring mount and used a reciprocating saw to cut it off. Hacked it right off! :devilish: Since I was in a rush and wasn't sure what else to do, I just zip-tied it to the hitch just to get it out of the way. It was like that for more than a year. Had it not been such a pain to plug-in/unplug the trailer lights, I would have left it.

Fast-forward to today... I finally made it look respectable. I figured I would try the Curt mounts. For less than $20, it was worth a shot. I bought:
CURT 57204 Vehicle-Side Trailer Wiring Harness Clamp-On Bracket Mount
CURT 58291 Vehicle-Side Trailer Wiring Harness Mounting Bracket

10 minutes later (not including the sawing of the stock mount) they were on. Perfect fit. And the mounts are in the place, where honestly, Westfalia should have put the stock mount. Pics are attached.

Some notes/thoughts:
  • Sawing the stock mount should have been easier than it was. The Dremel didn't reach. And the reciprocating saw wasn't small enough to fit exactly where I wanted it. As a result, there is a small piece of the stock mount that I couldn't fully remove. I'll file it off eventually.
  • When unplugging the 7-pin connector, pull back and not down. :cry:
  • When the strap/clamp is installed and tight, safety-wire or zip-tie the tightening bolt.
  • The Curt 58291 doesn't come with bolts. I recommend stainless steel with locking nuts.
 

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I too was thoroughly unimpressed with the placement of the wiring harness receptacle. As you noted, its almost impossible to get a lock on the trailer hitch as designed.

I like your solution. I simply cut the bottom edge of the bracket enough so that I could bend the receptacle out of the way.
 

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I agree it's stupidly placed -- no brake controller either. Or you could just buy the Harbor Freight hitch lock. Worked for me. But I like your surgery. 1577985602678.png
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