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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I would like to know also about leaving the foam soundproofing off the engine permanently. My only concern would be the heat shield attached on the passenger side of the foam needing to stay in place for some reason.
I think I'm going to make a bracket to hold the heat shield. I do believe that is important...but can't see where the foam insulation is important outside of sound deadening.
 

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Calling all mechanics,

Received code P0302 and horrible shaking on my wife’s 2016 Metris passenger with 45k miles on it. Pulled spark plugs and what do you know, plug for cyl.2 was oil fouled. Replaced all plugs and erased codes. Issue persists when taking off from idle but clears upon turning van off then back on. Her Metris has been maintained by our local MB since new. Why would a Metris engine fail so early in its life and should I bring this up to the dealership and demand a fix(out of warranty) or should I trade it in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Calling all mechanics,

Received code P0302 and horrible shaking on my wife’s 2016 Metris passenger with 45k miles on it. Pulled spark plugs and what do you know, plug for cyl.2 was oil fouled. Replaced all plugs and erased codes. Issue persists when taking off from idle but clears upon turning van off then back on. Her Metris has been maintained by our local MB since new. Why would a Metris engine fail so early in its life and should I bring this up to the dealership and demand a fix(out of warranty) or should I trade it in?
Not a professional tech. but pretty familiar with some things mechanical. Could be a coil, although a little early. When you say oily, could it be wet from fuel? The ECU should shut that injector down. The oil part concerns me. I hope it's not the dreaded undersized piston wrist pins, some of the engines ended up in our vans. Basically being out of spec allows piston slap and that will wear the cylinder walls prematurely. MB is aware of the problem and they are in somewhat in a state of denial about it. They know what the engine serial numbers are. I just looked and can't find my notes on it.
 

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Not a professional tech. but pretty familiar with some things mechanical. Could be a coil, although a little early. When you say oily, could it be wet from fuel? The ECU should shut that injector down. The oil part concerns me. I hope it's not the dreaded undersized piston wrist pins, some of the engines ended up in our vans. Basically being out of spec allows piston slap and that will wear the cylinder walls prematurely. MB is aware of the problem and they are in somewhat in a state of denial about it. They know what the engine serial numbers are. I just looked and can't find my notes on it.
Thank you for the insight, I will swap the #2 coil with #1 and see if problem persists. Will follow-up with results.
 

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Thank you for the insight, I will swap the #2 coil with #1 and see if problem persists. Will follow-up with results.
Okay, I did the swap and tried to induce the problem again to no avail...? This puzzles me at this point. Any ideas, as this was one of those issues that appeared to be quite serious and now nothing just from swapping coil packs around on cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Okay, I did the swap and tried to induce the problem again to no avail...? This puzzles me at this point. Any ideas, as this was one of those issues that appeared to be quite serious and now nothing just from swapping coil packs around on cylinders?
I know this might be pia...but remove #2 plug again and see if it's wet or oilly. If is is, take it to a MB dealer. It's either a cyc. issue of a injector is going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok, installed new plugs yesterday. They were the ngk, laser iridium silzkfr8e7s. I marked the plugs I removed to see if they were really indexed. They were not....they were everywhere...very inconsistent. I will say the new ones going in were consistent in their positions. All were aiming directly aft. at the transmission. I'm not really sure where the fi port is...It's one of the reasons I marked them coming out to try to ascertain their orientation. The more I think about it the more I don't think it's that important. There are millions of these engines out there and I'm sure there are people using various plugs without torque wrenches...and we are not reading about them blowing up. It does seem to idle and run very smooth..as good or better that before...maybe being all clocked the same makes a difference, I don't know. I did this at 49,600 miles...over the book recommendations just a little.

I judge difficulty by how much I curse...and this wasn't bad. The biggest pia is the sound deadening cover. Lol
 

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Lane: I am considering changing my plugs and appreciate your post. I am not a mechanic but am an enthusiast who needs training wheels at times. When you say "aiming directly aft", do you mean the open end of the plug where spark is generated points aft? (or the bent part that connects to the body of the spark plug points aft)? Thanks
 
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