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Installing...
Not sure if other Metris models have this but there is a little stamped sheet metal plate with a U shape extension inset towards the seat center...Whatever it is, this extra bit keeps the seats sliding rails from sitting flush on the top plate of the swivel base.


I had the same problem using Sportscraft swivel adapters and glued down washers as spacers just like you. Good to know the other bases need the same treatment.
 

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Just installed the Travois swivel today, works like a charm and install was way quicker than expected. Seat positioning is a bit of a key when maneuvering but I'm sure I'll get used to it. Its amazing how much space is created when the chair is rear facing. Thanks for the install directions
well ZdoubleDubs, I also have swivels from Travois I do not know how other swivels look like but the Travois kind/make, is absolutely perfect I did not read instruction so I had to do it twice :) the first time I did not run the wires trough the center if you know what you are doing it should take max 15 minutes maybe 20 for both sides, I keep going every day to my Metris to turn the seats, sit back and enjoy the view :) Tomorrow we are going to Texas to see lots of Czech friends at a barn fire expecting about 600 from all over the world, now I can invite them to my Metris for coffee :) two at a time:) What a joy, Travois is the best, thank you Daniel for the joy.
 

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You're welcome Baron. Let me know if you have any questions. The individual E12 external Torx socket was a bit tricky for me to find locally. If you need one, here's an Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2H6MEgb
@ Peter Thomsen, finally have the swivels :) did not follow you instruction but because of that I am now expert I did have to do it 2x I did not run the wires trough the center the first time, and had to pay dealer Mercedes Benz in Westminster Colorado $168.00 to reset the computer,(it takes 3 minutes to reset, I did remember to disconnect battery but the seat belt icon came on anyhow than even the icon for the engine came on I have no idea why I would say warranty issue,...
 

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Yep. The red tipped release handle is on the inside so that the passenger seat will swivel counterclockwise from forward facing.
 

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Did the deed today. Installing the Travois SCOPEMA Rib passenger seat swivel was easy peasy. Had to guess on torque for the allen heads went low at around 10 foot-pounds and it was very tight.

Pix attached
 

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I was able to use a 10mm socket to take out the torx head bolts with no problem.
They don't get re-used, so I don't think it matters.
 

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Just installed one in my 2019 cargo on passenger side that has the eco start battery and second battery under drivers side, decided to roll the dice and only disconnect the main battery under the passenger seat and that worked no airbag code thrown.
 

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I recently installed the Scopema RIB swivel on the my passenger side, and it squeaks like no other. Its been on for over a month now, and as I drive down the road and chair wiggles with the car and the swivel is constantly squeaking/clicking. I've tried shoving some felt tape between all of the connection points to reduce the metal-on-metal, and that seemed to have no effect. I just lubricated the actual swivel portion to see if that was the issue, but to no avail.

Has anyone else had problems with their install being so noisy like mine? And were you able to figure out a fix? Almost makes me want to remove it, which is a bummer after all the dough spent to buy one of these.. I should note that when there is someone sitting weighing it down there is no squeaking/clicking as the seat isn't able to move as much.
 

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I recently installed the Scopema RIB swivel on the my passenger side, and it squeaks like no other. Its been on for over a month now, and as I drive down the road and chair wiggles with the car and the swivel is constantly squeaking/clicking. I've tried shoving some felt tape between all of the connection points to reduce the metal-on-metal, and that seemed to have no effect. I just lubricated the actual swivel portion to see if that was the issue, but to no avail.

Has anyone else had problems with their install being so noisy like mine? And were you able to figure out a fix? Almost makes me want to remove it, which is a bummer after all the dough spent to buy one of these.. I should note that when there is someone sitting weighing it down there is no squeaking/clicking as the seat isn't able to move as much.
Mine has been dead silent. Something is not right
 
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My swivel bases from Travois arrived Friday (thanks for the quick shipping Travois!). I tackled the installation this afternoon. The overall process is fairly easy and straightforward. The trickiest thing was giving the wiring harness enough slack. Here's an overview of parts, tools and steps I used.

Parts:
CBTO 21 D2 - passenger ($300)
CBTO 21G2 - driver ($300)
Plastic wire sheath (optional)
Zip ties


Tools:
Socket wrench
10mm socket
E-12 (External Torx)
17mm socket
17mm combination wrench
Tiny slotted screwdriver (used to release factory wire harness zip ties and harness socket clips)
10mm allen key
Knife

Steps:
1. Disconnect battery. 10mm socket to remove battery bracket and negative terminal (see your Metris manual for specifics)
2. Disconnect seat wiring harness (Unclip the yellow and white connectors.) Release zip ties securing harness to seat frame.
3. Remove four external Torx E12 seat rail bolts. Remove seat.
4. Extend wiring harness as far as possible. (I removed the wire ties securing the harness to the chassis under the driver's seat)
5. Feed harness through the center hole in the swivel base. (I added plastic coil wire wrap for good measure)
6. Fasten the swivel adapter to the platform with the allen bolts (10mm allen key)
7. Fasten seat to the swivel base with 17mm bolts and locking nuts. (spin top plate ~45º from lower to access holes)
8. Reconnect seat wiring harness (I repositioned the white connectors with zip ties for additional wiring harness slack)
9. Reconnect battery.

Observations
The adapters seem well made. The seats feel stable and secure, especially when locked in the forward position. The additional stack height of the adapters is noticeable but not bad. Be careful with the wiring harness and connectors. There is not enough slack to start with. You need to create additional slack by disconnecting wire ties. Travois shipped quickly. I had them about one week after placing my order. Spinning the seats around to face backward really opens things up in the van. This modification is going to be great for camping!
A couple issues installing on 2017 comfort seats...

I had a couple issues getting them installed to my satisfaction on my 2017 with 'comfort' package seats. Here's my full experience.

Ordering...
I ordered the RIB seats through Travois thanks to Peter Thompson's excellent write up. After waiting for a bit longer than I had expected (a couple months since they were not stocked and still needed to be imported at the time I ordered them (Mar 2018), I contacted Brad whom I had ordered from at the BC office. He was very responsive, and due to an honest mix up on his side, he apologized and fixed it right away. The swivel bases arrived a few days later. When they did, I noticed the driver side lock handle was bent but they otherwise seem very solid and I don't think whatever happened to the handle in shipping damaged the swivel joint or bent either mounting plate. Total cost = $675 with shipping for both swivel seat bases.

Installing...
Not sure if other Metris models have this but there is a little stamped sheet metal plate with a U shape extension inset towards the seat center. I'll call this the "extra bit" for simplicity when referring to it from here on in. This extra bit is welded to the bottom of the factory seat rail track. See the photo so you know to what I'm referring. View attachment 14826 There is a corresponding plastic channel (with a connected wire) mounted on the bottom of the seat. When the seat is scooted fully forward these two elements are lined up such that the extra bit is within the plastic channel. Anyone know what this is? View attachment 14828 My guess is its something like a Hall effect sensor to report full seat forward seat position. Perhaps unused or perhaps to disable the passenger dashboard airbag when the seat is too close. What ever it is, its preventing a clean mating of the seat to the swivel base. There is actually a much longer inline plate under the rail on the opposite side too (toward van center) but that one has no protruding U shape or corresponding plastic channel under the seat.

Whatever it is, this extra bit keeps the seats sliding rails from sitting flush on the top plate of the swivel base View attachment 14824 when you mount them and that is an issue (it is for a careful perfectionist like me). On the fixed factory based there is a depression in the top surface of the seat mounting base which that accommodates this piece. View attachment 14822 The RIB swivel bases are flat plates and so there is no room for this extra bit, and when mating the parts, the extra bit causes an uneven teetering front to back on the door side (both seats).

I considered just mounting and wrenching it all down - but I didn't want to bend the rails or the extra bit.

I considered grinding the extra bit off with an angle grinder - but I didn't want to destroy any intended functionality. Even if it's unused today, someone in the future may want or need it, and I'm sure I'd pay a high price for whatever I'd need to buy from Mercedes to restore the seat to its original state. My goal with any mod to my van, is to be able to bring it back to factory state if desired whenever possible.

This issue was really pretty significant and I scratched my head for a day thinking what the best way forward was. I ultimately decided if the mounting of the seat rails from the factory is really only at four points (due to the seat base depression, then I should be fine to raise the seat a little more with a thick washer in order to clear the extra bit. So I bought 8 nice fat steal washers View attachment 14820 and attached the passenger side swivel.

These washers add another 1/8th or so to the height, oh well. Thankfully there is plenty of headroom to start with.

Use and Experience...
I have had the same experience as folks have posted before as for how to maneuver them into position so I wont repeat it. Well worth the effort for the benefit here I feel. My head touches the headliner when positioned closer to the front windshield and facing the rear but I can adjust and eliminate.

I notice the seats are less solidly fixed in place than with the factory fixed base. For example, if there is no one in the passenger seat I can shake it and it bobbles for a second before settling. Also, when sitting in the seat I can wobble it around a bit. I am 6'3" and 220lbs so somethings gotta give. I can see that the movement is all coming from flexing/bending of the swivel plates around the center hole swivel joint which seems very solid. While they come close, I have not noticed any contact between the top and bottom plates with the movements I have described.

I also hear subtle creaking/rattling from the empty passenger seat when driving. Its the kind of sound you might hear if you have a little sand between two metal plates. I'm hoping the sound will go away after some driving and tightening a bit and maybe even padding the space under the odd curved plate I mentioned (which now just barely contacts the bottom plate). At any rate, I am certain I can overlook these sounds after I get used to them.

All in all I am pleased with the results and look forwards to taking advantage of the increased openness and space this modification will offer.
I just got a passenger side swivel from Travois and installed it in a 2018 passenger van. I had the same experience with the "extra bit" which was satisfactorily fixed with washers. In addition, there was a spike in the bottom of each seat rail that apparently allows for easy alignment of the seat rails on the seat base. There is a corresponding alignment hole in the swivels, but the spike is longer than the distance between the two plates of the swivel, so I had to cut off 1/8-1/4" of the spike. Installation is actually pretty easy. If I had known about dealing with these alignment spikes and had enough 3/8 washers on hand when I started, it probably would have taken only an hour or so.
A couple overall comments on installation:
  • As noted by others, the Allen key needed for the swivel bolts is 6 mm, not 10 mm.
  • Inserting two 3/8 washers between the fore/aft seat rails and the top plate of the swivel at each of the 4 bolts seems to be a perfectly acceptable solution to dealing with the "extra bit"
  • I had to cut off about 1/8" of the alignment spike on each seat rail to fit them onto the swivels. I have not seen anyone else mention this issue.
  • It is a MUST that when threading the wire harness through the center hole that you pull EVERY tiny bit of extra wire you can out of the battery compartment. Otherwise, the wires might be stretched taut and damaged if the seat is ever shifted all the way forward. I pulled back the adhesive fabric on the top of the battery compartment and unhooked one ziptie hanger in order to get an extra inch.
  • The wire that comes out of the battery compartment must go under the bottom plate of the swivel. There is no channel for it, so it's just smashed against the seat base when you bolt the swivel in place. I protected it with some plastic sheathing, and hopefully this is good enough.
  • Tightening all the bolts requires awkward swiveling and moving the seat back and forth, but works fine with a 17 mm wrench and 6 mm allen key.
Seat swivel seems to work great with no obvious instability or noise.
18421
18422
 

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@DarkStar There is a small square passthrough from the front to the rear of the seat pedestal at the far corner. I fed the seat harness wire through, though it is also rather sharp so I used some plastic wire loom to guard against chafing.

I got the new OKB version that only adds 7/8", though I only got the passenger seat since I'm rather tall and found that when driving I already need the seat as far down as it can go. I did not correct the alignment spike issue that you mentioned, and it is interfering with the swivel action, so I'll need to handle that when I have time to get around to it.
 

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@DarkStar There is a small square passthrough from the front to the rear of the seat pedestal at the far corner. I fed the seat harness wire through, though it is also rather sharp so I used some plastic wire loom to guard against chafing.

I got the new OKB version that only adds 7/8", though I only got the passenger seat since I'm rather tall and found that when driving I already need the seat as far down as it can go. I did not correct the alignment spike issue that you mentioned, and it is interfering with the swivel action, so I'll need to handle that when I have time to get around to it.
Hmmm, I did not see any alternate route for the wiring that did not require unhooking the yellow wire clip and then reassembling the wires which I did not want to do. I may have missed the passthrough you are talking about. Everything is assembled and working, so I am not going to mess with it. All of the wires are very thin, so they seemed to smash flat okay, even with added 1/4" cable sheathing.
I bought a passenger and a driver swivel, but after putting in the passenger swivel have decided not to bother with the driver swivel. It seems really unlikely that I would really need it when I can sit outside or on the rear seat. We'll see. I may install it later or sell it.
 

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I received OKB swivels from travois a few weeks ago too and had a few issues.

1) The holes didn't line up. When 2 of the screws were installed, the other two were like this:
18470


It wasn't far off, but enough that they couldn't all thread. The fix was easy enough, I drilled out all four holes by an extra MM, and that gave enough clearance for them all to fit. Okay, whatever, someone messed up when running the drill press or something.

2) The same assembly guide post and stiffener bar interference. I resolved this by machining some spacers and boosting the seat by an extra 1/4".

I sent an email to travois, to inform them of those issues, and they immediately came back telling me that the swivel bases were installed backwards. They clearly weren't, and not like that would matter for either issue. I sent them better pictures of the installation, and they never replied.

Issue 3: The things rattle a LOT.

Here's a video driving down a smooth residential road at 20mph. It was dark but just listen. The phone was being held on the driver armrest.

It's the loudest thing in the cabin. It only rattles when locked forward. If I unlock it and turn it a few degrees away, the rattling goes away. It's interference between some of the locking V bearings.

I asked Travois if that is normal, and they came back with two rebuttals "You modified the seat swivel, so who knows what happened." as well as "even stock MB swivels make noise."
Both of which, tbh, are BS. Not only did I not modify the seat base anyway, just added washers - stock MB swivels are NOT this rattley.

Does anyone else's OKB swivels rattle this much?
 

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I listened to your sound clip. I would find that unacceptable. Hard to know the root cause from your post. I gather that there are friction fit contacts that enguage when the seat is in the forward position. That would be the silver discs. Is the rattling coming from there being play in how the swivel does or does not fully lock tight in forward position?

Curious why they thought you had installed backward. Since they rotate can the base plate be rotated 180 during install and that somehow cause a mis alignment? Not doubting you, just curious since the rotate lock handle location seems to orient the swivel in an obvious way.

Are these swivels the same they have been selling the whole time or did they change manufacturers?

I want swivels in my new van, but have power seats. I have had one or two people tell me its not possible, but my desire for them makes me skeptical :) I would not install them if they rattle even slightly.
 

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That would be the silver discs. Is the rattling coming from there being play in how the swivel does or does not fully lock tight in forward position?
I suspect so, yes - but I haven't really looked into it enough.

Curious why they thought you had installed backward.
In the picture I sent them, the seat was swiveled back, so the handle was on the outside. I thought it was pretty clear that the seat was swiveled, but they thought the handle on the outside meant they were inverted.

Are these swivels the same they have been selling the whole time or did they change manufacturers?
I think these new ones are different. Previously travois' site sold Scopema swivels, identifiable by a different handle design. The ones that they just got in were OKB brand.

I would not install them if they rattle even slightly.
Yeah i'm a bit miffed about this, although I think there are easy resolutions. One is just replacing them, although travois said it would be months until new ones are in stock. Also, this is on the condition that the new ones won't be just as noisy either.

The second is that the seats don't rattle as much if they're preloaded. When I push on the seat in pretty much any direction, the rattling stops, probably since whatever marginal contact is forced away or together. I could try to jam a magnet or wave washer between the plates, and retain it, such that there's always some preload on the plates.

Third is just making my own. I didn't think it was worth it before, but I have a machine shop and, now, the determination :D
 

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I didnt recognize the brand. Good luck. Sounds like maybe they are knock offs or better priced ...

Not sure i'd make my own, but if you do please do it with the rest of us in mind :)
 
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