I had the same problem using Sportscraft swivel adapters and glued down washers as spacers just like you. Good to know the other bases need the same treatment.
Installing...
Not sure if other Metris models have this but there is a little stamped sheet metal plate with a U shape extension inset towards the seat center...Whatever it is, this extra bit keeps the seats sliding rails from sitting flush on the top plate of the swivel base.
well ZdoubleDubs, I also have swivels from Travois I do not know how other swivels look like but the Travois kind/make, is absolutely perfect I did not read instruction so I had to do it twiceJust installed the Travois swivel today, works like a charm and install was way quicker than expected. Seat positioning is a bit of a key when maneuvering but I'm sure I'll get used to it. Its amazing how much space is created when the chair is rear facing. Thanks for the install directions
@ Peter Thomsen, finally have the swivelsYou're welcome Baron. Let me know if you have any questions. The individual E12 external Torx socket was a bit tricky for me to find locally. If you need one, here's an Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2H6MEgb
They don't get re-used, so I don't think it matters.I was able to use a 10mm socket to take out the torx head bolts with no problem.
Mine has been dead silent. Something is not rightI recently installed the Scopema RIB swivel on the my passenger side, and it squeaks like no other. Its been on for over a month now, and as I drive down the road and chair wiggles with the car and the swivel is constantly squeaking/clicking. I've tried shoving some felt tape between all of the connection points to reduce the metal-on-metal, and that seemed to have no effect. I just lubricated the actual swivel portion to see if that was the issue, but to no avail.
Has anyone else had problems with their install being so noisy like mine? And were you able to figure out a fix? Almost makes me want to remove it, which is a bummer after all the dough spent to buy one of these.. I should note that when there is someone sitting weighing it down there is no squeaking/clicking as the seat isn't able to move as much.
My swivel bases from Travois arrived Friday (thanks for the quick shipping Travois!). I tackled the installation this afternoon. The overall process is fairly easy and straightforward. The trickiest thing was giving the wiring harness enough slack. Here's an overview of parts, tools and steps I used.
Parts:
CBTO 21 D2 - passenger ($300)
CBTO 21G2 - driver ($300)
Plastic wire sheath (optional)
Zip ties
Tools:
Socket wrench
10mm socket
E-12 (External Torx)
17mm socket
17mm combination wrench
Tiny slotted screwdriver (used to release factory wire harness zip ties and harness socket clips)
10mm allen key
Knife
Steps:
1. Disconnect battery. 10mm socket to remove battery bracket and negative terminal (see your Metris manual for specifics)
2. Disconnect seat wiring harness (Unclip the yellow and white connectors.) Release zip ties securing harness to seat frame.
3. Remove four external Torx E12 seat rail bolts. Remove seat.
4. Extend wiring harness as far as possible. (I removed the wire ties securing the harness to the chassis under the driver's seat)
5. Feed harness through the center hole in the swivel base. (I added plastic coil wire wrap for good measure)
6. Fasten the swivel adapter to the platform with the allen bolts (10mm allen key)
7. Fasten seat to the swivel base with 17mm bolts and locking nuts. (spin top plate ~45º from lower to access holes)
8. Reconnect seat wiring harness (I repositioned the white connectors with zip ties for additional wiring harness slack)
9. Reconnect battery.
Observations
The adapters seem well made. The seats feel stable and secure, especially when locked in the forward position. The additional stack height of the adapters is noticeable but not bad. Be careful with the wiring harness and connectors. There is not enough slack to start with. You need to create additional slack by disconnecting wire ties. Travois shipped quickly. I had them about one week after placing my order. Spinning the seats around to face backward really opens things up in the van. This modification is going to be great for camping!
I just got a passenger side swivel from Travois and installed it in a 2018 passenger van. I had the same experience with the "extra bit" which was satisfactorily fixed with washers. In addition, there was a spike in the bottom of each seat rail that apparently allows for easy alignment of the seat rails on the seat base. There is a corresponding alignment hole in the swivels, but the spike is longer than the distance between the two plates of the swivel, so I had to cut off 1/8-1/4" of the spike. Installation is actually pretty easy. If I had known about dealing with these alignment spikes and had enough 3/8 washers on hand when I started, it probably would have taken only an hour or so.A couple issues installing on 2017 comfort seats...
I had a couple issues getting them installed to my satisfaction on my 2017 with 'comfort' package seats. Here's my full experience.
Ordering...
I ordered the RIB seats through Travois thanks to Peter Thompson's excellent write up. After waiting for a bit longer than I had expected (a couple months since they were not stocked and still needed to be imported at the time I ordered them (Mar 2018), I contacted Brad whom I had ordered from at the BC office. He was very responsive, and due to an honest mix up on his side, he apologized and fixed it right away. The swivel bases arrived a few days later. When they did, I noticed the driver side lock handle was bent but they otherwise seem very solid and I don't think whatever happened to the handle in shipping damaged the swivel joint or bent either mounting plate. Total cost = $675 with shipping for both swivel seat bases.
Installing...
Not sure if other Metris models have this but there is a little stamped sheet metal plate with a U shape extension inset towards the seat center. I'll call this the "extra bit" for simplicity when referring to it from here on in. This extra bit is welded to the bottom of the factory seat rail track. See the photo so you know to what I'm referring. View attachment 14826 There is a corresponding plastic channel (with a connected wire) mounted on the bottom of the seat. When the seat is scooted fully forward these two elements are lined up such that the extra bit is within the plastic channel. Anyone know what this is? View attachment 14828 My guess is its something like a Hall effect sensor to report full seat forward seat position. Perhaps unused or perhaps to disable the passenger dashboard airbag when the seat is too close. What ever it is, its preventing a clean mating of the seat to the swivel base. There is actually a much longer inline plate under the rail on the opposite side too (toward van center) but that one has no protruding U shape or corresponding plastic channel under the seat.
Whatever it is, this extra bit keeps the seats sliding rails from sitting flush on the top plate of the swivel base View attachment 14824 when you mount them and that is an issue (it is for a careful perfectionist like me). On the fixed factory based there is a depression in the top surface of the seat mounting base which that accommodates this piece. View attachment 14822 The RIB swivel bases are flat plates and so there is no room for this extra bit, and when mating the parts, the extra bit causes an uneven teetering front to back on the door side (both seats).
I considered just mounting and wrenching it all down - but I didn't want to bend the rails or the extra bit.
I considered grinding the extra bit off with an angle grinder - but I didn't want to destroy any intended functionality. Even if it's unused today, someone in the future may want or need it, and I'm sure I'd pay a high price for whatever I'd need to buy from Mercedes to restore the seat to its original state. My goal with any mod to my van, is to be able to bring it back to factory state if desired whenever possible.
This issue was really pretty significant and I scratched my head for a day thinking what the best way forward was. I ultimately decided if the mounting of the seat rails from the factory is really only at four points (due to the seat base depression, then I should be fine to raise the seat a little more with a thick washer in order to clear the extra bit. So I bought 8 nice fat steal washers View attachment 14820 and attached the passenger side swivel.
These washers add another 1/8th or so to the height, oh well. Thankfully there is plenty of headroom to start with.
Use and Experience...
I have had the same experience as folks have posted before as for how to maneuver them into position so I wont repeat it. Well worth the effort for the benefit here I feel. My head touches the headliner when positioned closer to the front windshield and facing the rear but I can adjust and eliminate.
I notice the seats are less solidly fixed in place than with the factory fixed base. For example, if there is no one in the passenger seat I can shake it and it bobbles for a second before settling. Also, when sitting in the seat I can wobble it around a bit. I am 6'3" and 220lbs so somethings gotta give. I can see that the movement is all coming from flexing/bending of the swivel plates around the center hole swivel joint which seems very solid. While they come close, I have not noticed any contact between the top and bottom plates with the movements I have described.
I also hear subtle creaking/rattling from the empty passenger seat when driving. Its the kind of sound you might hear if you have a little sand between two metal plates. I'm hoping the sound will go away after some driving and tightening a bit and maybe even padding the space under the odd curved plate I mentioned (which now just barely contacts the bottom plate). At any rate, I am certain I can overlook these sounds after I get used to them.
All in all I am pleased with the results and look forwards to taking advantage of the increased openness and space this modification will offer.
Hmmm, I did not see any alternate route for the wiring that did not require unhooking the yellow wire clip and then reassembling the wires which I did not want to do. I may have missed the passthrough you are talking about. Everything is assembled and working, so I am not going to mess with it. All of the wires are very thin, so they seemed to smash flat okay, even with added 1/4" cable sheathing.@DarkStar There is a small square passthrough from the front to the rear of the seat pedestal at the far corner. I fed the seat harness wire through, though it is also rather sharp so I used some plastic wire loom to guard against chafing.
I got the new OKB version that only adds 7/8", though I only got the passenger seat since I'm rather tall and found that when driving I already need the seat as far down as it can go. I did not correct the alignment spike issue that you mentioned, and it is interfering with the swivel action, so I'll need to handle that when I have time to get around to it.
I suspect so, yes - but I haven't really looked into it enough.That would be the silver discs. Is the rattling coming from there being play in how the swivel does or does not fully lock tight in forward position?
In the picture I sent them, the seat was swiveled back, so the handle was on the outside. I thought it was pretty clear that the seat was swiveled, but they thought the handle on the outside meant they were inverted.Curious why they thought you had installed backward.
I think these new ones are different. Previously travois' site sold Scopema swivels, identifiable by a different handle design. The ones that they just got in were OKB brand.Are these swivels the same they have been selling the whole time or did they change manufacturers?
Yeah i'm a bit miffed about this, although I think there are easy resolutions. One is just replacing them, although travois said it would be months until new ones are in stock. Also, this is on the condition that the new ones won't be just as noisy either.I would not install them if they rattle even slightly.