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There are dozens of ways to do this sort of project and because I am often accused of reinventing the wheel my way may not be for everyone. When someone’s idea for a project is valid I will occasionally plagiarize but like Disney’s Imagineers I will usually Plus it. Usually however I will identify a need and design the build with what I have available or can find easily. As long as my construction methods and materials are of high quality and engineering is well thought-out, for me, its fun to imagine, design, and build something like this. It's also interesting to see how others are progressing with their designs and construction.

I’ve recently completed the ceiling and the lower portion of the rear storage area. For the ceiling I decided on a 4X8 sheet of Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic purchased at Lowes for around $35. This product is easy to work with, looks good, brightens the interior, and provides a durable finish. I was going to use a panel called Polywall but it didn’t work out as planned. It provided a pleasing finish but it seems the substrate which I adhered the Polywall has a different coefficient of expansion. It became a little wonky when the temperature increased, kind of like a bi-metal thermostat spring. The material was inexpensive and It made a good template for the FRP so no real setback.
After installing the sound deadening material, LED ceiling wiring, and insulation, I installed ¼” X 2” wooden strips fore and aft spaced in the ceiling center and ½” X 3-1/2” boards on each outside edge. I attached all wood into overhead beam supports with self-taping screws. Since a 48” wide panel is narrower than the width of the vehicle ceiling, wider boards on the outsides provided a place for the panel edges to land. Also, the extra thickness on the outside boards evened out the side-to-side transition. Eventually the gap between the FRP panel and the sidewall of the van will be finished with cabinetry or trim. See photo for wood strip installation and second photo of ceiling panel cut to shape with edge trimming on front.

I happened to have a large roll of Velcro so I attached the panel to the ceiling using 1” wide strips. The Velcro had it’s own adhesive that attached well to the FRP panel but just to be safe I used contact cement on the wood along with upholstery staples to secure the opposite Velcro strip. I also added ¼” x2.25” plywood strips on the outside boards as a guide for the panel installation and to give a finished look. See next two photos.

Installation worked like a charm, even for an old guy by himself. I guided the panel centered into the front and lifted up (I put a temporary clamp through the vent hole) and by simply moving toward the back with up pressure rubbing the panel adhered quite solidly to the ceiling. Surprised me how well it worked. I installed two cabin Led ceiling lights on centerline. These lights along with the Velcro and a few fasteners fore and aft and along the sides secured the ceiling panel yet it would be very easy to remove the panel if needed. I had cut the vent hole a little small so it was necessary to use a laminate router bit with bearing to make the fit perfect. See last two Photos.

I will follow up later with a description of my initial cabinetwork started behind the seat/bed.

For any that are interested in the initial work I’ve completed on our conversion I posted 3 entries a while back on this link:
http://www.metrisforum.com/forum/40...sions/5122-beginning-conversion-progress.html
 

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Like this material. Along the line I'm going but I'm thinking to go industrial double sided tape to keep the final panel up.
 

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With the floor and ceiling in, as well as the bench seat/bed, I’ve started cabinetwork from the rear and will build up and forward. The two wooden boxes on either side are bases for additional cabinetry that will extend up to the ceiling. The boat inspection hatches allow access to the mounted jack, tools, etc. The seat folds down and matches the height of a 50” X 24” X 4” cushion (not shown). This cushion sets on top of the center walnut ply and gives us just over 6’ of bed length when the seat is swung down. Knape Vogt full extension slides with lock, in and out, supports the storage drawer. The slides have a 500 lb. capacity, which is overkill, but I like the solid feel and will eventually incorporate a table. The yellow handles look a little odd but a slight pull unlocks for open, a slight push from the locked open position releases the drawer to close and lock. No need for a handle.
I attached the slides to a ply faced sections of 3” X 3” aluminum square tubing and attached this to the L tracks that were previously installed in the floor. The seat and much of what I am building are secured to the L track so removal of components, if necessary for alternate uses, will be fairly easy. I left a gap under the drawer so long or wide thin items can be carried or stored. Still a ways to go but I feel good that I've mostly completed the drudge work and can finally do some finish work.
 

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