I am about 6 months into a conversion project and will periodically post my progress if there is an interest.
An initial project completed was the installation of floor L-tracks. I purchased the Track extrusions, along with compatible plastic end caps, online from Disable Passenger Resources. http://www.disabledpassengerresourc...ck-100-Long-Predrilled-for-5-16-Fastners.html
Many companies sell this track, and it may all be the same as far as I know, but this company specializes in products to secure wheel chairs in vehicles so I went with them. I chose the flange series L-track because I was installing heavy duty vinyl flooring on top of the plywood and this track profile makes for a cleaner installation. Each track is 100” long and quite robust in construction. I cut off 11” from each track segment for my installation. Since I was installing sound deadener (Noico) I removed the plywood floor however if you are not insulating under the plywood the tracks could be installed without removing the ply floor. The plywood floor is only 9mm thick, about 3/8”, so I was able to remove it myself and I’m an old guy. I removed the jack mounts, which helped get the ply floor in and out. The jack was eventually installed at a new location so I had no concern drilling out the pop rivets holding one of the jack mounts.
There are 4-stamped/pressed recesses in the van floor that will accept track installation. (see 1st photo) The center line for the outside track installation begins at the factory D-ring tie down, in the floor, behind the driver (and passenger) seat, then rearward to the factory D-ring tie down bolt, located just inboard of each wheel-well bump. I began by installing a track extrusion temporarily, on top of the ply, along this line. I bolted through the top hole in the L-track into the tie down location behind the front seat. (using the existing 8m bolt with a Torx socket.) Then I aligned the track with the tie down bolt inside the wheel-well bump. Of course the tie-down bolt hole was between existing extrusion holes so I had to drill the track in order to bolt it down at this location. I secured a 89” track segment at these two (front and middle) locations. This allowed me to use the track as a straight edge to mark, with sharpie, the cut lines on the plywood. The width of cut is about 1.5 inches. If you’re confident these cuts can be made with the ply in place using a circular saw with a shallow blade depth. You have about 1.25” clearance between the bottom of the ply and the top of the metal but a little less toward the edge of the slot where you will be cutting so cut shallow. Drill inspection holes in ply if nervous. It requires 1.5 inches beyond the track length to install the end caps but be sure to custom cut these in because they have a specific shape.
If you cut these track slots with the ply out of the vehicle, like I did, you will need to temporarily screw wood supports across the slots before re-installation otherwise the thin ply may break on the sides because of the reduction in structure.
I bought a piece of Loncoin marine vinyl flooring on eBay for 179.00 and installed it over the entire ply floor. https://marine-plastic-innovations....s/loncoin-marine-and-boat-flooring-stone-gray
I then used a router with a bearing guide bit to trim away the vinyl over the track cutout as well as the D-ring attachment points. The ply, with installed vinyl flooring, was then secured with the factory D-ring attachment bolts and plates not affected by the track installation.
Photo 1- with Noico sound deadener installed. 4 slots for track installation visible.
Photo 2 – Ply floor out of vehicle being cut
Photo 3- Ply floor back in - next step install vinyl. Center slots utilized the extra 11” cut from the track extrusion and will be used as seat belt anchor for the seat/bed.
Photo 4- View of flooring and track installed. Porta-potty temporary installation until cabinets are built allows use of vehicle for camping as I progress with build. Yeti cooler between seats.
I will continue with the actual track installation on a follow up post.
An initial project completed was the installation of floor L-tracks. I purchased the Track extrusions, along with compatible plastic end caps, online from Disable Passenger Resources. http://www.disabledpassengerresourc...ck-100-Long-Predrilled-for-5-16-Fastners.html
Many companies sell this track, and it may all be the same as far as I know, but this company specializes in products to secure wheel chairs in vehicles so I went with them. I chose the flange series L-track because I was installing heavy duty vinyl flooring on top of the plywood and this track profile makes for a cleaner installation. Each track is 100” long and quite robust in construction. I cut off 11” from each track segment for my installation. Since I was installing sound deadener (Noico) I removed the plywood floor however if you are not insulating under the plywood the tracks could be installed without removing the ply floor. The plywood floor is only 9mm thick, about 3/8”, so I was able to remove it myself and I’m an old guy. I removed the jack mounts, which helped get the ply floor in and out. The jack was eventually installed at a new location so I had no concern drilling out the pop rivets holding one of the jack mounts.
There are 4-stamped/pressed recesses in the van floor that will accept track installation. (see 1st photo) The center line for the outside track installation begins at the factory D-ring tie down, in the floor, behind the driver (and passenger) seat, then rearward to the factory D-ring tie down bolt, located just inboard of each wheel-well bump. I began by installing a track extrusion temporarily, on top of the ply, along this line. I bolted through the top hole in the L-track into the tie down location behind the front seat. (using the existing 8m bolt with a Torx socket.) Then I aligned the track with the tie down bolt inside the wheel-well bump. Of course the tie-down bolt hole was between existing extrusion holes so I had to drill the track in order to bolt it down at this location. I secured a 89” track segment at these two (front and middle) locations. This allowed me to use the track as a straight edge to mark, with sharpie, the cut lines on the plywood. The width of cut is about 1.5 inches. If you’re confident these cuts can be made with the ply in place using a circular saw with a shallow blade depth. You have about 1.25” clearance between the bottom of the ply and the top of the metal but a little less toward the edge of the slot where you will be cutting so cut shallow. Drill inspection holes in ply if nervous. It requires 1.5 inches beyond the track length to install the end caps but be sure to custom cut these in because they have a specific shape.
If you cut these track slots with the ply out of the vehicle, like I did, you will need to temporarily screw wood supports across the slots before re-installation otherwise the thin ply may break on the sides because of the reduction in structure.
I bought a piece of Loncoin marine vinyl flooring on eBay for 179.00 and installed it over the entire ply floor. https://marine-plastic-innovations....s/loncoin-marine-and-boat-flooring-stone-gray
I then used a router with a bearing guide bit to trim away the vinyl over the track cutout as well as the D-ring attachment points. The ply, with installed vinyl flooring, was then secured with the factory D-ring attachment bolts and plates not affected by the track installation.
Photo 1- with Noico sound deadener installed. 4 slots for track installation visible.
Photo 2 – Ply floor out of vehicle being cut
Photo 3- Ply floor back in - next step install vinyl. Center slots utilized the extra 11” cut from the track extrusion and will be used as seat belt anchor for the seat/bed.
Photo 4- View of flooring and track installed. Porta-potty temporary installation until cabinets are built allows use of vehicle for camping as I progress with build. Yeti cooler between seats.
I will continue with the actual track installation on a follow up post.
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