Slightly off topic, but @MOWO (and others!!) would you mind sharing how you got power into the 50A charger located inside (I assume from your description) the driver's side B-C pillar panel?I went with 3M Thinsulate. Some say that wool you can still smell the 'animal' when it's hot out.
Is you van single or double side door? Mine is the former and I put my BlueSeas circuit breaker box and 50A charger in the cavity space.
Hah, thanks @pounce ! I had the same idea, but using a router from the top. It wouldn't be hard to lift that corner of coin vinyl and put the router to work. I was worried about protection for the top of the cable absent a conduit -- your approach avoids that but I don't want to remove the whole floor at this point. I suppose I could overlay the router channel with some non-conductive plastic?You could rabbet/dado the bottom of your wood flooring and run the cable through it.
Sold. Any reason I shouldn't grind off some paint to make my own ground? I can't think of one provided I check for continuity after it's connected.Steel plate. Dado a groove then rabbet edges and cover with steel. Cover with the coin. You can get flat stock at home depot, but you probably have various sources.
I hear you, but the CAN Bus has me concerned, so I initially thought I should really stuck to the factory ground points -- Am I overdoing it? See below:Can't see why you would not ground to chassis other than if you wanted to run isolated for some reason.
OK @pounce -- OK, you have two negatives on your DC-DC. Renogy does not. I'm going to stick to the factory ground point under the driver's pedestal.The oem second battery grounds under the driver seat. The starter grounds under passenger. You can run an isolated dc/dc charger to your house battery and not ground to the chassis. I have the isolated Orion so I can do that if I want to, but I can still ground to the chassis. Just depends on what you need. I think most people probably do not need isolated nor is it required in a vehicle since the chassis is all connected.
I have two chargers for the battery bank, a ProCharge Ultra AC-to-DC 50A charger, and a Sterling Power DC-to-DC 60A charger (mounted right behind the passenger seat). The latter + and - input is connected directly to the start battery. No oem aux battery.Slightly off topic, but @MOWO (and others!!) would you mind sharing how you got power into the 50A charger located inside (I assume from your description) the driver's side B-C pillar panel?
Follow-up @pounce -- I found a very conductive chassis ground at the driver's C-pillar D-ring. So I am not going to need to ground back to the auxiliary battery ground under the driver's pedestal.OK @pounce -- OK, you have two negatives on your DC-DC. Renogy does not. I'm going to stick to the factory ground point under the driver's pedestal.
When I insulated my back doors...I very carefully removed that, ran dental floos as sort of a web to hold up the wool, then replaced that. It will pick u every speck of dirt or wool fiber to place it out of the way. Then re-installed it. It's very sticky.Thank you both for all the information. I'm finally feeling like I'm making some progress.
I was able to pop the push pins out as @icerabbit instructed. Yes, it was very easy. And I was able to remove all of the door panels.
Pro-tip from the hair salon. If you pull the pin too hard, it will pop out without the center plug. If you have trouble, you can either gently pry it (I just used the flat head of the screwdriver), or you can briefly hit it with a hair dryer. The heat from the dryer makes the plastic more pliable. I learned this when I bought some cheap plastic thing from amazon.com and I accidentally assembled a piece wrong and had to remove the plastic pins.
I wish I had remembered that trick when taking off the rear panels. The door side panel is trapped by the door handle trim, which you have to pop off. I managed to get it off, but not before breaking two of the little clips. Rats. First casualty. Oh well...at least it's a small casualty that can be easily replaced. I think if I'd hit it with the hair dryer, it would have made the plastic more pliable and I wouldn't have had to use as much force to pop the clips out of their sockets.
Next question. Behind the door panels is a sheet of plastic that is sort of sticker glued in place. (see picture below). I'm not sure why it's there. I will need to remove it to put insulation in. Did you leave it out? Or did you put it back in place?
wrt the jack housing, @focus805 you said you removed it. But how? Is it just a matter of removing the two torx screws? Did you have to do anything with the bent metal tab things?
Thanks again,
Tracey
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