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Finally picked up my Metris 135 cargo van

6K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  AMG 
#1 ·
Greetings,

I've been reading this forum for a long time and just joined officially after finally receiving my 2022 cargo van. Like Tickbus, I ordered my van in November and was finally able to pick it up at the end of March. Since ordering the van, I've been researching how to do a few simple things, so this forum will hopefully come in handy.

There is so much I don't know, and I don't have the vocabulary to be able to Google what I want to learn about. I'll be asking for information (like...what is this thing called?) and I hope people here can point me to other sources of information where I can read and learn about specific things.



The very first thing I need to do is insulate the van. I have 3 boxes of Havelock wool, and I've also ordered DuraTherm wall and ceiling liner. My plan is to stuff the wall and ceiling cavities with wool batting, and then have the DuraTherm installed over the top of it. This seems simple enough, but I have so many questions about how to even get started. I'm hoping someone here has some experience.

Question 1. Removal of foam pieces in the corners of the ceiling
(Picture #1)
The van has triangular shaped foam pieces on the ceiling. These are in the way of the ceiling insulation and liner, and probably need to be removed. I don't actually know what these are, and my dealer didn't either. He surmised that they are for sound dampening, but did not know for sure. Does anyone know what these are? Does anyone have experience with removing these for insulation? Did you put them back after the insulation/ceiling panels were installed, or did you leave them out permanently? My next question is about the star shaped screw. I'm assuming this is called a Torx screw. Does anyone know the size of these screws (or even better, does anyone know of an online resource where I can look this stuff up)? I don't have a star screwdriver or drill bit and will need to buy one. I'd like to buy the one I need and not a bunch of extra stuff that I don't need and have no use for.

Question 2. Removal of foam jack holder
(Picture #2,3)
The van has what seems like an excessively large foam housing for the jack and tire kit. It is attached to the wall behind the wheel well and takes up a ridiculous amount of space. I have no idea why it's so enormous. Is there a reason for it? Did people take it out? If so, how did you take it out? There are two "things" (here is where my vocabulary is non-existent) that look like they could be what is attaching the jack holder to the wall of the van. One is a star screw, and the other thing is something I don't know the name of. I don't know which one is actually holding the jack cover to the wall, or how to properly remove this thing without damaging it.

Question 3. Bags of foam flake insulation stuffed into some of the wall cavities
(Picture #4,5)
I was digging around in the wall cavities, and I found that a few of them have plastic bags with foam flakes stuffed in them. I'm assuming these are for stopping things from rattling. The bags are kind of in the way of where I'd like to push the wool insulation into the cavity. Plus, the bags are really flimsy and tear easily, which leaks foam flakes all over the place and makes me grumpy. Did people remove these and replace them with whatever other insulation you were going to put in the wall anyway?

Question 4. Headliner
Did you remove the headliner to add additional insulation between it and the roof?

Question 5. Removing the pre-installed door paneling
(Picture #6)
I need to remove the pre-installed paneling in order to put wool insulation behind it. Again, this is where my vocabulary is non-existent. What is the name of the screw thing that's attaching it to the frame, so I can get the right tool to detach the pre-installed paneling.

Why I chose Havelock wool and DuraTherm, even though they are expensive.
I have never done anything like this, and I plan on making a lot of mistakes and changing my mind as I learn. I am trying to avoid drilling holes and putting permanent adhesives in the van until I actually know what I'm doing and have some experience behind me. I also want things to be removable, so I did not want anything like spray foam, or anything else that will only come out in a million pieces. Part of learning means I'm not going to do everything at once. I will have to remove and replace the wall/ceiling liner at some later date, in order to run infrastructure behind it. I don't yet know where I'll need to run electrical for lighting and for running the solar panel cables to the battery/charge controller.

The Havelock wool is meant to be installed by friction only, not glue. You are supposed to run a nylon twine net/mesh through the holes and gaps in the ribs and then stuff the insulation batts behind it, then put the wall/ceiling liner on to permanently hold it in place. The nylon twine is supposed to be just good enough to temporarily hold things in place until you can sandwich the batts behind the wall liner.

The DuraTherm was very interesting to me because it's pre-cut and easy to install. It is "expensive, but done." It's also an insulator in itself.


I look forward to learning a ton from this forum and sharing my knowledge with others. Oddly enough, it's a little difficult to find info on the Metris. YouTube is packed full of information about Sprinters, ProMasters, and Transits...but very little on the Metris.

Cheers
Tracey


Picture 1. Triangular Foam pieces
Automotive design Grey Line Bumper Automotive exterior


Picture 2. The "jack housing of unusual size" (someone please tell me they love The Princess Bride)
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle Bumper


Picture 3. The "thing" that looks like it might be what's attaching the jack housing to the wall. What are the metal tab things that are on each side of the star screw? They don't look like they're meant to be removed. They almost look like they were bent to lock them in place. Like a permanent button/button hole.
Sleeve Wood Jewellery Pattern Metal


Picture 4&5. Bags of foam were stuffed here
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There is also a bag stuffed in the hole that looks like where you'd put a light...where the red circle is pointing to:
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Picture 6. What is this thing called, and what is the best tool to remove it?

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#2 · (Edited)
Greetings,

I've been reading this forum for a long time and just joined officially after finally receiving my 2022 cargo van. Like Tickbus, I ordered my van in November and was finally able to pick it up at the end of March. Since ordering the van, I've been researching how to do a few simple things, so this forum will hopefully come in handy.

There is so much I don't know, and I don't have the vocabulary to be able to Google what I want to learn about. I'll be asking for information (like...what is this thing called?) and I hope people here can point me to other sources of information where I can read and learn about specific things.


The very first thing I need to do is insulate the van. I have 3 boxes of Havelock wool, and I've also ordered DuraTherm wall and ceiling liner. My plan is to stuff the wall and ceiling cavities with wool batting, and then have the DuraTherm installed over the top of it. This seems simple enough, but I have so many questions about how to even get started. I'm hoping someone here has some experience.

Question 1. Removal of foam pieces in the corners of the ceiling
(Picture #1)
The van has triangular shaped foam pieces on the ceiling. These are in the way of the ceiling insulation and liner, and probably need to be removed. I don't actually know what these are, and my dealer didn't either. He surmised that they are for sound dampening, but did not know for sure. Does anyone know what these are? Does anyone have experience with removing these for insulation? Did you put them back after the insulation/ceiling panels were installed, or did you leave them out permanently? My next question is about the star shaped screw. I'm assuming this is called a Torx screw. Does anyone know the size of these screws (or even better, does anyone know of an online resource where I can look this stuff up)? I don't have a star screwdriver or drill bit and will need to buy one. I'd like to buy the one I need and not a bunch of extra stuff that I don't need and have no use for.

Question 2. Removal of foam jack holder
(Picture #2,3)
The van has what seems like an excessively large foam housing for the jack and tire kit. It is attached to the wall behind the wheel well and takes up a ridiculous amount of space. I have no idea why it's so enormous. Is there a reason for it? Did people take it out? If so, how did you take it out? There are two "things" (here is where my vocabulary is non-existent) that look like they could be what is attaching the jack holder to the wall of the van. One is a star screw, and the other thing is something I don't know the name of. I don't know which one is actually holding the jack cover to the wall, or how to properly remove this thing without damaging it.

Question 3. Bags of foam flake insulation stuffed into some of the wall cavities
(Picture #4,5)
I was digging around in the wall cavities, and I found that a few of them have plastic bags with foam flakes stuffed in them. I'm assuming these are for stopping things from rattling. The bags are kind of in the way of where I'd like to push the wool insulation into the cavity. Plus, the bags are really flimsy and tear easily, which leaks foam flakes all over the place and makes me grumpy. Did people remove these and replace them with whatever other insulation you were going to put in the wall anyway?

Question 4. Headliner
Did you remove the headliner to add additional insulation between it and the roof?

Question 5. Removing the pre-installed door paneling
(Picture #6)
I need to remove the pre-installed paneling in order to put wool insulation behind it. Again, this is where my vocabulary is non-existent. What is the name of the screw thing that's attaching it to the frame, so I can get the right tool to detach the pre-installed paneling.

Why I chose Havelock wool and DuraTherm, even though they are expensive.
I have never done anything like this, and I plan on making a lot of mistakes and changing my mind as I learn. I am trying to avoid drilling holes and putting permanent adhesives in the van until I actually know what I'm doing and have some experience behind me. I also want things to be removable, so I did not want anything like spray foam, or anything else that will only come out in a million pieces. Part of learning means I'm not going to do everything at once. I will have to remove and replace the wall/ceiling liner at some later date, in order to run infrastructure behind it. I don't yet know where I'll need to run electrical for lighting and for running the solar panel cables to the battery/charge controller.

The Havelock wool is meant to be installed by friction only, not glue. You are supposed to run a nylon twine net/mesh through the holes and gaps in the ribs and then stuff the insulation batts behind it, then put the wall/ceiling liner on to permanently hold it in place. The nylon twine is supposed to be just good enough to temporarily hold things in place until you can sandwich the batts behind the wall liner.

The DuraTherm was very interesting to me because it's pre-cut and easy to install. It is "expensive, but done." It's also an insulator in itself.


I look forward to learning a ton from this forum and sharing my knowledge with others. Oddly enough, it's a little difficult to find info on the Metris. YouTube is packed full of information about Sprinters, ProMasters, and Transits...but very little on the Metris.

Cheers
Tracey


Picture 1. Triangular Foam pieces
View attachment 21201

Picture 2. The "jack housing of unusual size" (someone please tell me they love The Princess Bride)
View attachment 21202

Picture 3. The "thing" that looks like it might be what's attaching the jack housing to the wall. What are the metal tab things that are on each side of the star screw? They don't look like they're meant to be removed. They almost look like they were bent to lock them in place. Like a permanent button/button hole.
View attachment 21204

Picture 4&5. Bags of foam were stuffed here
View attachment 21205

There is also a bag stuffed in the hole that looks like where you'd put a light...where the red circle is pointing to:
View attachment 21206

Picture 6. What is this thing called, and what is the best tool to remove it?

View attachment 21207

Welcome and that's a lot of questions!

Foam blocks near cab headliner. Just trim as near as I could tell. They got in the way of my home made headliner, so I pulled them off. T-30 Torx, as I recall. I saved the metal brackets for future use on a more refined transition from front cab to rear. (you can order the center headliner section online, but not the rear section -- I made mine out of 5' x 5' Baltic birch 3mm ply). Much easier than 4' wide plywood and an exact match of the factory part which is unavailable for a 135.

You don't need to drop the front headliner completely to insulate there, although the Havelock will likely be too thick. I used Thinsulate SM 600L, with Noico 80 mil butyl and Noico Red 315 mil against the metal roof. There are big magnets on the edge of the cab headliner towards the rear of the van that pull down. You'll also need to release the B-pillar (where the seat belts are) plastic trip and the door rubber gasket to drip the headliner partially. Be careful not to insulate too close to the airbags, which are atop the door top in the ceiling/roof.

Most of us have used butyl sound deadener as a first layer on the metal. Lots of brands -- Noico, Kilmat, etc. You'll see the van has a few of those pieces already when you take off the panels -- you'll want no less than 25% coverage. Many folk do a lot more, up to 100%. It makes a HUGE difference in the quiet of the ride. Do it!! As I noted for the cab, I put a 315 mil thick dense foam layer on top of the butyl before insulating.

The black plastic bags are part of the cold weather package. I'd leave them in place. They are good as is the brown gooey stuff spread on the lower metal panels for rust proofing (Google "cosmoline").

I took off the jack foam as it is huge. My jack and tools now reside in a large nylon canvas tool bag instead. I strap it down to the floor D-rings.

The panels are held on by plastic pushpins. Spend $10 and and get a trim removal kit like this -- pop up the center pin then pop out the whole pushpin. I'd buy some spares.

Product Font Material property Electric blue Event


Lastly, if you plan on doing electrics, I'd route my backbone cabling before insulating. I used Ancor 12/2 sheathed marine cable for my backbone, and smaller gauge for low wattage consumers like LED lights (14 or 16 AWG).

Have fun!
 
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#3 ·
Welcome to MetrisForum family @Tracey
Congrats on the new van!

Those are plastic panel holders. Small flat screw driver to get the center pin popped up. Then you can pull the center plug out. Once you see how it works. Very easy.

Trunk. I don't have that Styrofoam thing ... those little tabs look like some kind of thing that is bent to hold the washers in that hold the styrofoam in?

Removing the foam triangles. Probably just with the Torx. Probably just covers up a gap. ( mine had partition wall)

Bags. Work as insulation.

Dropping cabin headliner. Yes. Some members have done it, just release it on the interior side. Apply extra sound deadening. Slip in insulation. ( I wish I had done this when I had my partition out )

Apply extra sound deadener before adding insulation, if you think it is necessary. My van with partition wall was particularly loud while driving. Applied sound deadener to the seat bases and lower half of my wall. I believe several members here - for their camper conversion - added extra sound deadener in strategically ... as MB didn't quite apply as much material as they could have.

Yes, those oblong holes look like the one for the lights.
 
#4 ·
Thank you both for all the information. I'm finally feeling like I'm making some progress.

I was able to pop the push pins out as @icerabbit instructed. Yes, it was very easy. And I was able to remove all of the door panels.

Pro-tip from the hair salon. If you pull the pin too hard, it will pop out without the center plug. If you have trouble, you can either gently pry it (I just used the flat head of the screwdriver), or you can briefly hit it with a hair dryer. The heat from the dryer makes the plastic more pliable. I learned this when I bought some cheap plastic thing from amazon.com and I accidentally assembled a piece wrong and had to remove the plastic pins.

I wish I had remembered that trick when taking off the rear panels. The door side panel is trapped by the door handle trim, which you have to pop off. I managed to get it off, but not before breaking two of the little clips. Rats. First casualty. Oh well...at least it's a small casualty that can be easily replaced. I think if I'd hit it with the hair dryer, it would have made the plastic more pliable and I wouldn't have had to use as much force to pop the clips out of their sockets.

Next question. Behind the door panels is a sheet of plastic that is sort of sticker glued in place. (see picture below). I'm not sure why it's there. I will need to remove it to put insulation in. Did you leave it out? Or did you put it back in place?

wrt the jack housing, @focus805 you said you removed it. But how? Is it just a matter of removing the two torx screws? Did you have to do anything with the bent metal tab things?

Thanks again,
Tracey

Rectangle Automotive lighting Auto part Automotive exterior Gas
 
#8 ·
The plastic in the doors will gently peel off, and re-apply just fine. Remove three sides, do your thing, re-apply.

I will have to check out that person's YT channel. Is he a member here? Why not? 🤔

For some reason I love van conversions, tiny homes, etc :)
 
#9 ·
I prefer to peel the plastic back and leave some attaches rather than removing. I've done this another and leaving it attached helps avoid alignment issues. The goo used to stick the plastic varies from awesome to sticky awful black goo everywhere...

The hair dryer trick works in cold weather to get the liner adhesive to stick again.
 
#12 ·
Great minds think alike :). I have already been shopping for rubber puzzle gym flooring. Yes, it was my plan to cover the floor with something that has traction, and would provide additional sound and temperature insulation. I was looking at both the rubber gym flooring and also at carpet squares. There are a bazillion options on amazon. Do you recommend the one you got? If so, do you know the brand, etc? I want to get one that is slightly squishy and that's hard to tell from just the pictures online.

I was also looking at carpet squares like this, and this. The first one is intriguing because it's meant for pets, so you can remove them and wash them.

My van is not going to be a full time camper. I plan on using the van for hauling things, so the floor will need to be covered in something that allows me to slide things in and out of the van. At some point in the future, I would also like to investigate putting L-Track in the floor (or other * track...I have not even begun to research the possibilities). At the moment, I'm securing things to the D rings, but it would be really nice to be able to snap things in and out of the track.

Let me know what kind of gym flooring you got.

Cheers!
Tracey
 
#13 ·
Products, merchandise, boxes, ... slide easily on the factory floor.
The standard interlocking foam squares to put under gym equipment, work stations, play areas ... may make loading & unloading harder.

Perhaps L-track could be glued and screwed to the factory floor and the difference besides it leveled up with ply-wood and other flooring. Rather than removing the factory floor and trying to recess into it, bolting to factory holes or through the body ... Just thinking out loud.
 
#14 ·
L track would be cool but it's a lot of work. @pounce is the resident expert on floor tracks.

I went with the coin vinyl for several reasons, in no particular order of priority. It's grey and matches the interior, it's smooth enough to slide your load (agree with @icerabbit and their subtle suggestion), it's super durable, and it's washable. Most of all, it's available in 6 foot widths so I was able to do a seam free install (other than D-ring holes), so with the caulking at the edges it prevents water and salt from getting to the steel floor beneath. It was also reasonably priced at about $130 through Home Depot for a 6 x 10 sheet. I removed the factory floor to use as a cutting template (easy to do with a helper), so I had an excuse to insulate under as described above. The vinyl fits under the rear barn door threshold like you'd hope for, but I had to cut an L shaped piece of angle aluminum to fabricate a threshold at the passenger slider.

No downsides so far other than it is a hard surface, so if cushioning or a "homey" design ethos are what you're after look elsewhere.

I find carpet a turn-off because it gets dirty quickly when out in the boonies and it's pretty well impossible to clean to my standards. I've resisted lining the van walls with any material for that reason, and to avoid losing any space.

Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Blue

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive lighting

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#15 ·
The coin flooring looks great. I agree with you about carpet being hard to clean. I wouldn't have considered it at all if I hadn't seen the stuff that's removable and meant to be washed. Part of what I need this van for is to have a safe way to transport a giant dog. My last dog was a Newfoundland mix. Raise your hand if you know how much mud, fur, and slobber come with a Newfie. (spoiler alert. A LOT). So the gym flooring or coin flooring is a must.

Thanks for the pictures of your van with the floor removed. I can't see it clearly, but aren't those grooves meant for installing L-Track? The passenger version has some form of *-Track, because that's where the seats snap into. I wonder how hard it would be to make the cargo floor look like the passenger floor.

Anyway...if L-Track happens, it will happen later. This van is a marathon, not a sprint, so everything does not have to be done all at once. The reason I'm so keen on L-Track is that my van will not be a una-jobber (camper van). I actually need it as a van, and I also would like to camp/travel/road trip in it. For this reason, the "camper" needs to be easily removable. I've been doing this on the cheap, first with my station wagon, then with my minivan, where I basically have boxes that hold the kitchen, the bathroom, the bedding, and I put them in the vehicle and voila! it's a camper. It would be nice to have a quick way to add and remove the boxes. Strapping them down to D-Rings takes a lot of time, and I think L-Track might be great for things that need to be removed without a lot of hassle.

Anyway, thank you @Shuttergirl for the picture of your gym flooring. I put that same image through Google image search and found the brand/etc.
 
#17 ·
I wonder how hard it would be to make the cargo floor look like the passenger floor.
I could be wrong with newer vehicles, but if it didn't come with the floor tracks as an option you wont have the threaded inserts in the floor for tracks. Passenger vans in the US only have 3 rails (sadly not the 4 that you get with a Vito). You certainly could mount rails, but its going to be a drill and fabricate situation. The gas tank is behind the driver so you need to drop the plastic tank to get at the back side for the rails.

I'm familiar with Newf slobber.
 
#16 ·
Yes, the four long tracks in the floor are where tracks can be bolted down.

You also have the option to install MB tracks on the sidewall. Two in the trunk. One on the driver side in the middle. Those may be quite practical for you, in combination with the D-rings if you wanted to lash down or bolt down something like removable kitchen unit " boxes " or modules, etc. You do have to buy those from MB though for the correct tooth and hole spacing.

See post #44 here in the MB Lashing Rails thread. #44

Building Wood Water Road surface Asphalt


L-trac above..
MB-trac below.

I love my various tracks for lashing things down, and @focus805 has successfully used them for his bed platform. I was going to do the same / similar thing initially, but since mine is not a camper (yet) and I needed faster break down for maximum versatility ... I took a different route. My rear ones mainly get used when I don't have my platform in. Been thinking about getting some on the ceiling, again ... LOL. Anyhow. MB Tracks for the sidewalls are a good upgrade in my opinion for securing things.
 
#19 ·
Thanks, @focus805 for the information about the torx screw size. I bought what looks like a jack knife, with a bunch of various sizes. I was easily able to remove the "jack housing of unusual size", and I tried removing the foam triangles, but they are sort of stuck. I saw your response to this thread for how to remove them without breaking them. I tried pulling down the headliner, but wasn't able to unstick them. I'll try again today.
 
#20 ·
I got one front headliner foam out without breaking, one broke. You have to release the headliner magnets and try to pry the front off, which as I recall is glued in place. I saved the brackets, not the foam --
 
#21 · (Edited)
I went with 3M Thinsulate. Some say that wool you can still smell the 'animal' when it's hot out.

Is you van single or double side door? Mine is the former and I put my BlueSeas circuit breaker box and 50A charger in the cavity space.
 
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#22 ·
Slightly off topic, but @MOWO (and others!!) would you mind sharing how you got power into the 50A charger located inside (I assume from your description) the driver's side B-C pillar panel?

I have a fairly kludgy (but very serviceable) watertight flexible conduit now from an add-on trim panel on the driver's seat base to my power box (battery, 30A DC-DC/MPPT, 1000W inverter, shunt, fuse boxes, Renogy Bluetooth BT-2, and bus bars) via the driver's side B-C pillar panel. So there is a curved piece of conduit at my feet when I swivel the driver's seat. Hasn't been a problem, but, as I said, it's kludgy.
Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire


I wanted to be able to run my 1000W inverter off the factory aux battery as well as off of my "house" LiFePO4, and I ran my 4 AWG ground all the way back to the driver's seat pedestal aux battery, so I have two 4 AWG cables routed in the conduit with a 100A circuit breaker in the driver's seat pedestal.

As I am upgrading to a 2000W inverter with twin 100 Ah LiFePO4 batteries, I won't be using the 95Ah factory aux battery for the inverter, and therefore not needing or drawing more than about 50A from the factory aux battery, fused at about 75A (Renogy 50A DC-DC/MPPT rated at max 660W load on alternator), so I am thinking I might run a single 6 AWG positive from the factory battery terminal back to the new power box, and find or create a chassis ground closer to the power box. So, I am looking for a way to get the single 6 AWG from the driver's pedestal battery box to my new twin battery power box without an external cable route.

How'd you do it? Any other tips on cable routing from the factory aux battery would be welcome -- Thanks all!!
 
#24 ·
Hah, thanks @pounce ! I had the same idea, but using a router from the top. It wouldn't be hard to lift that corner of coin vinyl and put the router to work. I was worried about protection for the top of the cable absent a conduit -- your approach avoids that but I don't want to remove the whole floor at this point. I suppose I could overlay the router channel with some non-conductive plastic?
 
#26 · (Edited)
Sold. Any reason I shouldn't grind off some paint to make my own ground? I can't think of one provided I check for continuity after it's connected.
 
#28 ·
I hear you, but the CAN Bus has me concerned, so I initially thought I should really stuck to the factory ground points -- Am I overdoing it? See below:

Question
What is the proper way to ground a power system?

Answer
Since no two ground points have exactly the same potential, the idealized concept of a single ground potential is a snare and a delusion. In many cases the potential difference is small, but a difference in two ground potentials of even a fraction of a volt could cause amperes of current to flow through a complete ground loop. (Ground loop is a term used to describe any conducting path formed by two separate connections to ground). Ground loops can cause serious interference problems when voltages developed by these currents are coupled into sensitive signal circuits. To avoid ground loop problems, there must be only one ground return point in a power supply system. (A power supply system includes the power supply, all of its loads, and all other power supplies connected to the same loads). The selection of the best ground return point depends on the nature and complexity of the DC wiring. In large systems, practical problems frequently tend to force compromises with the ideal grounding concept. For example, a rack mounted system consisting of separately mounted power supplies and loads generally has multiple ground connections. Each instrument usually has its own chassis tied to the third grounding wire of its power cord, and the rack is often connected by a separate wire to ground. With the instrument panels fastened to the rack frame, circulating ground currents are inevitable. However, as long as these ground currents are confined to the ground system and do not flow through any portion of the power supply DC distribution wiring, their effect on system performance is usually negligible. To repeat, separating the DC distribution circuits
from any conductive paths in common with ground currents will in general reduce or eliminate ground loop problems. The only way to avoid such common paths is to connect the DC distribution system to ground with only one wire. Figure 3 illustrates this concept: DC and signal currents circulate within the DC system, while ground loop currents circulate within the ground system.
 
#29 ·
The oem second battery grounds under the driver seat. The starter grounds under passenger. You can run an isolated dc/dc charger to your house battery and not ground to the chassis. I have the isolated Orion so I can do that if I want to, but I can still ground to the chassis. Just depends on what you need. I think most people probably do not need isolated nor is it required in a vehicle since the chassis is all connected.
 
#30 · (Edited)
OK @pounce -- OK, you have two negatives on your DC-DC. Renogy does not. I'm going to stick to the factory ground point under the driver's pedestal.
 
#32 ·
Hi @Shuttergirl . I'm a little bit stymied about how they attach the duratherm liner on the ceiling in the back of the van. Because I don't see any logical place where they could attach it. There is no rib in the very back and there's no holes either. I ran across this when trying to find someplace to attach the extra insulation to the ceiling. Is there any way you could take a couple of pictures of the ceiling of your van? Especially The ceiling in the back of the van. Thank you so much.
 
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