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Factory Cargo Side L-Track Platform

11K views 75 replies 6 participants last post by  focus805 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all -- quick question for those with the factory sidewall cargo L-track. I've read this thread started by icerabbit. It looks like the factory rails bring the surface flush and level with the protruding sheet metal right below the waist track line of threaded M8 inserts. I am trying to decide the easiest way to construct a rear cargo platform. I've mentioned a while back that 1.5" stock (like 80/20) cannot fit along the cargo side rail without drilling holes off center to accommodate the bulge below the waist track line.

From icerabbit's picture below, it looks like the factory rails bring the line flush with the lower panel. Can someone confirm this?

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I'd also appreciate comments on this approach, largely plagiarized from this YouTube vid, but without adding rivnuts or holes.
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1. Acquire factory rear rails as shown above in icerabbit's photo.
2. Acquire and install rails using 16 suitable M8 fasteners (the factory N000000-001152 hexalobular bolts have a replacement P/N that doesn't look suitable -- icerabbit?)
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2. Acquire 10 (5 sets) of Ikea Bed frame mounting plates, Part # 116791, from Ebay (can't buy directly from Ikea, only as repair part).
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3. Acquire 10 threaded L-track studs like these.
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4. Drill holes and mount mounting plates to L-track with studs.
5. Acquire and attach 5 Ikea Skorva adjustable galvanized support beams.
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6. Acquire, cut, and and install 2 to 3 plywood panels covered with 4-way carpet.
7. Enjoy strong and solid platform.

Help welcome!!!
 
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#3 ·
Good idea, but I am trying to avoid drilling holes in Metris sheet metal. The E Track I've seen is like 5" wide, so I am not sure how I'd mount it in the narrow rear channel along the M8 inserts. The aftermarket L Track would take some fairly precise drilling to do a sanitary install, and I don't have access to a drill press. So I end up defaulting to the factory tracks. Didn't you go factory on your floor tracks?
 
#4 ·
The Ikea bed frame components are an excellent idea.

Are the US Cargo L track studs compatible with the MB L track? (SAE vs metric)

The US Cargo L track does take some work to fit into the Metris since the hole spacings for the fasteners are different. I used US Cargo L track in my van because shipping the MB parts to AK was going to be far more expensive. I modified the L track with more holes to fit into the MB threaded fittings and then M8 flat head socket cap screws to hold them in place. The tapered head provided some leeway if the holes were not exact.

M8-1.25 x 20MM Flat Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Din 7991, Stainless Steel A2-70, Full Thread, Plain Finish, Flat Point, Quantity 25 by Fastenere: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I debated do something similar to what you have outlined when I did my van. My idea was to attach heavy duty drawer slides to the L track, then brackets to raise the platform higher so that I had more usable space underneath the bed. The plywood sheets would have stacked when it was retracted and stowed. I would have needed a spacer between the L track and the drawer slides to clear the C pillar. But with my galley set up, there would not have been much head room in the bed so I ditched the idea.

Good luck!
 
#5 ·
The Ikea bed frame components are an excellent idea.

Are the US Cargo L track studs compatible with the MB L track? (SAE vs metric)

I debated do something similar to what you have outlined when I did my van. My idea was to attach heavy duty drawer slides to the L track, then brackets to raise the platform higher so that I had more usable space underneath the bed. The plywood sheets would have stacked when it was retracted and stowed. I would have needed a spacer between the L track and the drawer slides to clear the C pillar. But with my galley set up, there would not have been much head room in the bed so I ditched the idea.

Good luck!
Thank you much!

Great catch on SAE v Metric, no idea, just assumed compatibility (other than M8x16 fasteners)! Does anyone know whether the factory L track track is compatible with commonly available U.S. tracks?

I noticed MB uses button head Torx, so I was going to use button head hex stainless from Amazon -- can't find Torx in M8x16 easily). I like your fasteners better but there does not appear to be a chamfer on the factory rails.

The C pillar is in the way for sliders, so I have been trying to figure out a detachable, stowable leg and foot section that would notch around the C pillar. The platform height would be pretty high for a bed, but doable so long as you don't mind the gymnastics of climbing in from right behind the cab seats (more likely climbing off the seats when swiveled). I had envisioned just constructing a removable driver's side B to C pillar platform with folding or removable legs for support on the passenger side. I know the factory L track piece is not available for the B to C pillar section, so I'll need to cut-to-fit a rear rail.

My alternative is to sleep under the platform on my Hest as I've been doing. It's quite comfortable, and rolls up pretty easily because it has a pump to deflate the lower drop-stitch base. That would save stowing a front platform.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I am away from my van at the moment, for another week; but, to weigh in on the question about fitment.

I recall a dip in the frame where the tracks go, about the thickness of a the MB rails, so they end up about flush after install.

The third rail, for the front driver side rail did have to be trimmed down a few inches. Just a simple hacksaw or jigsaw with a fine metal blade will do just fine.

Images about the frame and rails can be seen early on in my MB Lashing Rails thread.

I realize I should add a summary and maybe some extra photos to that thread, but it crossed overto this thread and post ...

For a permanent install, or even a semi-permanent one, that metal frame method can work fine. For my multi-purpose-anything-may-need-to-be-transported any given week; I opted for both MB lashing rails and E-track. I have had a full width platform across the most of the back, using the 2x sockets. My platform clicks in right below the MB rails. Going higher could be tricky, due to the rails and van curvature starting.

For a single traveler van, my thought would be split the van lengthwise in function so a full length sleeping are is created ... extend the platform on the driver side, and have something extra there ... or on the passenger side temporarily, with a nightly adjustment as that will be in front of the sliding door area.

PS: Reminder. The factory MB track does not have identical " tooth " spacing and hole placement as regular cargo track. Accessory wise, not an issue for single stud items. I have not tried double stud items yet.

Post #44 Waist level lashing rails / tie down rails
 
#9 ·
Super helpful, you're my hero! Agreed on the single bed lengthwise, removable foot section. Ideally, the frame will be dropped about 6 inches below the track, maybe with angle iron. I guess I'll have to test the double studs.

Thanks so much!!!
 
#10 ·
Thank you for the compliment 😊

I personally would not go down too low for the platform, or you may lose wanted storage space underneath. It is going to be that trade off between bed space and option to sit up at an angle vs stowage. Sitting up would require the bed to be quite low. I have a utility rolling stool from HF that I use for some vehicle detailing, and on the very lowest setting, I can scoot around on it in the van.

Looking for a second time, I can see now how the three ikea beams would be removable. That's neat and a plus. I wonder if you could use the factory rail holes to hang a piece of metal or plywood, to mount the ikea braces under, like how I mounted my plywood walls, just maybe a strip / band of 4-6 inches in your case.

For me it was just more utilitarian to use e-track and lumber. The nearest ikea is six hrs away for me. And, I gain the option to install my platform one click lower, and slot in extra 2x as need be to compartmentalize or tie down. It does take 3 1/2 in in height and would look far less elegant in a camper van, than my do-it-all rig.
 
#11 ·
Thank you for the compliment 😊

I personally would not go down too low for the platform, or you may lose wanted storage space underneath. It is going to be that trade off between bed space and option to sit up at an angle vs stowage. Sitting up would require the bed to be quite low. I have a utility rolling stool from HF that I use for some vehicle detailing, and on the very lowest setting, I can scoot around on it in the van.

Looking for a second time, I can see now how the three ikea beams would be removable. That's neat and a plus. I wonder if you could use the factory rail holes to hang a piece of metal or plywood, to mount the ikea braces under, like how I mounted my plywood walls, just maybe a strip / band of 4-6 inches in your case.

For me it was just more utilitarian to use e-track and lumber. The nearest ikea is six hrs away for me. And, I gain the option to install my platform one click lower, and slot in extra 2x as need be to compartmentalize or tie down. It does take 3 1/2 in in height and would look far less elegant in a camper van, than my do-it-all rig.
Yes, like your build, the reason I want to use factory L track and Skorva is removablity and no sheet metal holes. BTW, my nearest Ikea is a couple of hours and $45 of gas away. Ikea shipped the 5 Skorvas for $20.99, so that was an easy decision (when I added two 7 foot brackets (replacements for unavailable Metod), shipping went up to $120-ish! -- I didn't buy them -- I'll buy a ten-pack of single attachments off of Ebay for ~$50). Also like you mentioned, there's really no wriggle room on mounting the rails into the factory threaded inserts -- I know that without a drill press there's no way I could drill 8 M8 mounting holes on driver and passenger side aftermarket L-track with sufficient hole alignment precision for my satisfaction.

I did not add full wall plywood as you have, I just have the Con-pearl panels, so I don't have many options for fixing rails or E track, even if I were willing to drill and use rivnuts. As to platform height, I am of two minds. I designed my lights and switches to accommodate the platform at a point where it is about 1.5 inches above a prototypical big box store black box with yellow lid, or about 7 inches above that point at the waistline. The lower version would give me (barely) enough headroom seated (my ICECO VL45ProS is a bit taller and I can sit on it facing the swiveled passenger seat with a bit of a hunch -- more interior headroom at that location in Metris). OTOH, if I am willing to climb up to waistline height, I get a lot more usable storage underneath the platform. I think I'll ultimately bail on the dropped platform idea, but we'll see when I get the parts.

Thanks again!
 
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#13 ·
I am sure I'd find a way to kill or maim myself while trying to ride a hammock.
 
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#15 ·
Looks like I need a plan B. I received this message from MB Parts Center in Arizona: "The reinforcement, part number 6396366416 is currently on backorder with no ETA."

Anybody know of a good alternative source for the factory part?
 
#16 ·
I guess I'll bolt the Ikea rails directly to the factory M8 rail holes. I'll have to cut and drill a bunch of angle iron.
 
#18 ·
You might try the long shot, time consuming method. Do a search for "Metris salvage for sale," you'll see lots of bunny holes to run down. You might find a place that is willing to take the rails off of a salvage van.....

And you're in luck. Today ONLY I'm offering 100% off on the price of my free advice. If you waste a bunch of time following my advice, I even throw in a double your money back guarantee! :rolleyes:
 
#19 ·
We Metris owners need to get good at chasing rabbits. Ever try to find the contacts for the EK1 body builder connector? I finally chased them down (online) at a Freightliner shop in Limon, Colorado. Last time I was actually in Limon was in 2005 to pick up a Saab I bought off lease from a lot in Sonoma, which was delivered by motor carrier to me in a diesel rest stop parking lot!
 
#20 ·
I was confused for a second, but I think you ordered the rails, and not reinforcements ... just a mislabel from the parts store.

If the van has the threaded holes to receive the Metric bolts, then it has the hidden reinforcements in place. On the rears (trunk / third row) those are welded in, on the second row driver's side, there's two black metal pieces that fall down into the wall cavity, when you take four screws out. Two each. At least that's what happened in my case.

I only ordered the three rails from MB, the front driver side front one needs shortening a few inches, towards the trunk (iirc) based on the hole pattern.

Should the MB rails not be available, I would look at a wooden filler strip the size of about one MB rail to fill out out the profile difference, then a horizontal band of a couple inches wide as a mounting rail, with then the MB lashing rail over it, or an Ikea rail or other profile to receive the cross beams ... and somewhat longer bolts through it all.

Could use logistics track, but you will have to cut a few teeth and drill holes in it as needed, to match the MB pattern.

I could see a setup where you have the bed profile stuff at MB rail height, with whatever profile, from Ikea, or just clips ... and then logistics track under that, for under the bed garage tie down.
 
#21 ·
I was confused for a second, but I think you ordered the rails, and not reinforcements ... just a mislabel from the parts store.

If the van has the threaded holes to receive the Metric bolts, then it has the hidden reinforcements in place. On the rears (trunk / third row) those are welded in, on the second row driver's side, there's two black metal pieces that fall down into the wall cavity, when you take four screws out. Two each. At least that's what happened in my case.

I only ordered the three rails from MB, the front driver side front one needs shortening a few inches, towards the trunk (iirc) based on the hole pattern.

Should the MB rails not be available, I would look at a wooden filler strip the size of about one MB rail to fill out out the profile difference, then a horizontal band of a couple inches wide as a mounting rail, with then the MB lashing rail over it, or an Ikea rail or other profile to receive the cross beams ... and somewhat longer bolts through it all.

Could use logistics track, but you will have to cut a few teeth and drill holes in it as needed, to match the MB pattern.

I could see a setup where you have the bed profile stuff at MB rail height, with whatever profile, from Ikea, or just clips ... and then logistics track under that, for under the bed garage tie down.
I know you've been through the rail ordering drill -- no mislabeling, just not a very accurate name. The parts book calls 639 636 64 16 a "reinforcement." 639 636 61 16 -- the front driver's side rail (also "reinforcement") is no longer available. The dealer book shows 64 16 as the replacement. Glad to hear the 64 16 will match up front with only one cut.

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As I said, I think I found the rails -- we'll see if they actually appear. My dealer has been really good -- like finding the plastic shield for my rear semi-trailing arm after I tore it in mud & snow. I couldn't find it in the factory parts manual.
 
#22 ·
Yes, that's the ones :)

Fingers crossed. Mine arrived, by the end of the second business week, from what I recall.

I installed them with metric bolts that have an extra flange below the dome, like if they had a washer under a basic ones; for extra contact area ... which was probably overkill.
 
#24 ·
Where did you source the bolts? I ordered these from Amazon because they kinda sorta look like the factory buttonheads and they are returnable ;)

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#23 ·
I think there have been a few threads where we have talked about bunks. I think the base is often overlooked. I think it's quite common for people to think of using plywood for the base and to put a mattress on the top. It's really not the best approach. It's hard and not flexible. It's the same as putting the mattress on the floor. Moisture can build up there also. The sleep systems that create some air flow have the advantage of cutting down the moisture/mold issue and also add some spring.

Even though I have the Reimo bed for the cabin I'm still interested in the design like the Vanable. Mercedes Vito XL | Vanable® – Macht jeden VAN zum Wohnmobil . One of the reasons is I'd like to store larger bins under. The Reimo bed folds and due to the fold the main frame is lower to allow the fold to physically clear the ceiling. I called Vanable and they wont sell to the US so I tossed some ideas around. One of them was using the Ikea struts. Since have one of the beds in the house I was able to look at it. My idea was to run it just like the Ikea bed. The long way and use the ikea slats with the mattress from the Reimo bed. If you run the supports from side to side you are now challenged with slats. If you run it the "normal" way you get suspension. So if you just run solid bars or 2x4 side to side at the top and bottom and one ikea beam down the center the mattress can be thinner. You could also not run the full width and say have a twin size running left justified. and use the ikea beam as one side with the slats running the full width. The Ikea slats are cheap and easy to shorten. They are also connected with webbing.
 
#25 ·
I think there have been a few threads where we have talked about bunks. I think the base is often overlooked. I think it's quite common for people to think of using plywood for the base and to put a mattress on the top. It's really not the best approach. It's hard and not flexible. It's the same as putting the mattress on the floor. Moisture can build up there also. The sleep systems that create some air flow have the advantage of cutting down the moisture/mold issue and also add some spring.

Even though I have the Reimo bed for the cabin I'm still interested in the design like the Vanable. Mercedes Vito XL | Vanable® – Macht jeden VAN zum Wohnmobil . One of the reasons is I'd like to store larger bins under. The Reimo bed folds and due to the fold the main frame is lower to allow the fold to physically clear the ceiling. I called Vanable and they wont sell to the US so I tossed some ideas around. One of them was using the Ikea struts. Since have one of the beds in the house I was able to look at it. My idea was to run it just like the Ikea bed. The long way and use the ikea slats with the mattress from the Reimo bed. If you run the supports from side to side you are now challenged with slats. If you run it the "normal" way you get suspension. So if you just run solid bars or 2x4 side to side at the top and bottom and one ikea beam down the center the mattress can be thinner. You could also not run the full width and say have a twin size running left justified. and use the ikea beam as one side with the slats running the full width. The Ikea slats are cheap and easy to shorten. They are also connected with webbing.
I hear you -- I've seen the Ikea Skorva/Luroy combos, and they'd serve well in a fore/aft configuration, or side to side if I were under 5' tall (or if somebody made Sprinter-esq side pop-outs -- hint hint someone!!).

But I'm really interested in a solid and overbuilt, easily removable cargo platform -- that's why I am planning on up to 5 Skorvas, depending on where I end up with the side fastening system, hopefully the factory rails. There's a chance the ICECO will end up there, and I want the lashing to be rock solid as I don't have a cargo partition. I expect I'll eventually construct a leg and foot extension using the driver's side B to C pillar rail (reinforcement) and passenger side "legs," but that will take longer than I have before my next extended trip. So I was going to default to my Hest under the platform, and use the upper area for much storage, as well as the "garage" under, while leaving width on the driver's side for my 25" wide bed. In any event, I really don't want a permanent dedicated mattress in the van, just a permanent place to put the Hest.

I agree about the air circulation, so I assumed that down the road I could drill and cut ventilation holes in the plywood Skorva covers, though if I maintain the Hest they won't be so helpful as it has a watertight drop stitch bottom like an inflatable SUP.

And thank you, ideas muchly appreciated!!!
 
#30 ·
What a cool product! And unlike Pounce's hammocks, I'm likely to survive the fall off this cot --
 
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#29 ·
Yes, they are rather long, shorter will absolutely work fine for people. I kind of needed that extra length because of : hidden nut + spacer + plywood + track; and I had to get my 48" high plywood started and flexed into place ... which with a more regular length might have meant just a couple turns grab hold. I did a test fit and the " shoulder " area in the van is rather wide. The install idea worked fine. There was only one bolt spot on the passenger side where it was maybe half an inch too long, towards the front, probably something to do with the door track.
 
#32 ·
Well, I am absolutely stunned, but my dealer called this afternoon to say that the 3 cargo lashing rails ("L-track") I ordered last week have arrived from Germany. I am going to fetch them tomorrow. Icerabbit convinced me to get the both regular and flanged Torx buttonheads, M8 16 Coarse (1.25). BTW, Belmetric.com was a great source -- cheap and fast -- I paid $32.19 delivered for 25 buttonheads and 25 flanged buttonheads. We'll see which fits better. Their products on Amazon cost 4 times as much as you can get them directly.

Now I need some help calculating maximum static load on the cargo rails. So I load them safely. I last took college physics in 1975 and 1976, so I'm (more than) a little rusty and I was hoping an engineer might help.

The equipment handbook states that the maximum tensile loading of the lashing points on the tie-down rail is 1000 newtons. Newtons measure force. One newton is equal to 1 kilogram meter per second squared, i.e., Force equals mass times acceleration, or Mass equals force divided by acceleration. In order to derive the safe static load on the lashing points, I am assuming I would divide 1000 N by some presumed maximum acceleration. Let's start with gravity, our constant in the vertical axis. That's 9.82m/s² So, 1000 kg meters per second squared/9.82m/s² = 101.8 kg static weight or about 225 pounds per anchor point if you are parked. What if you are braking -- hard. Does any one have stats on how fast braking deceleration is? It can be calculated from starting speed, ending speed and time to ending speed. What kind of braking force should I design to accommodate. I was thinking 80 mph to zero in 2 seconds -- basically hitting a wall. If the cargo stays still then even if you're dead, at least it's not from the cargo!?

Thanks

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#34 ·
So the maximum tensile load for a M8 flanged button head appears to be somewhere between 23,400 N and 30,500 N, based upon ISO 7380-2. That would make the rail the weak spot in the system, rather than my fasteners or cross rails.
 
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#35 · (Edited)
I got the rails today. To my surprise and delight, the heavy duty 1800# US Cargo double lug 3/8" fittings work great. To my surprise and relief, the cheapo 1000# M8 "Bonberland" double lugs do not fit. I'll send install pics later.

icerabbit, after looking at it, I do prefer the flanged buttonhead M8 16 fasteners over the unflanged versions. It just feels like more grip. Did you use blue Loctite or Permatex? I am planning to, unless someone tells me it's a bad idea. The manual WIS/ASRA says they take 23Nm torque.

Thanks in advance
 
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#53 ·
I wish the forum had pinged me and it had shown up as an updated topic. I guess it was missing the @ symbol ... Anyhow.

Great progress!!

I guess with the upper position on the L braces, once you get a tick of extra garage space below; and once something for sleeping platform over the top gets pinned down and stabilizes them over the top, none of them will be tempted to rotate left or right.

No, I did not use any adhesive on the bolts. Just snugged them up decently. Afaik nothing has rattled loose. Of course not too many mines and no washboards.

Would you like some 3D printed end caps for the MB rails?

Mine go in with a small screw, into the wood, but I'm guessing you could put a dap of glue and double sided tape. Can remove the screw hole for aesthetics.
 
#36 ·
Picture time -- dry fit of Ikea rails on L-track with U.S. Cargo Control double lug 3/8" studs and 250# rated 3/8" hole L brackets. It is going to be easy to build the foot section on the driver's side using the B- to C-pillar L-Track. It looks like the Ikea rail clips are unnecessary -- I just need a 9mm hole though the rails to use the left over M8 buttonheads to fasten the rails down. Muy fuerte!!

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#38 · (Edited)
I thought about that but I got nervous about rattling. I'm not worried about the integrity of the Skorva because it will be compressed flush with the L bracket if I bolt it down, so it will have plenty of surface area even with the 9mm clearance hole required for an M8 (the 3/8 studs are ~9.5mm). And the shoulders and vertical reinforced edges will not be affected.

I guess I could put felt on the L bracket. It would take quite a bump to knock them off now. What do you think about Velcro to hold the Skorva's down? Nice and simple --

20-20 hindsight -- I wish I cudda gotten the cargo protection package with floor rails too. It was $855 when I bought, and included the 3 rails ($225), the LC2 rear LED ($207), floor rails ($215), Con-pearl paneling ($285) and the side lashing rails ($225) -- that's $1,157 separately. Unfortunately, MB did not have the plastic paneling for the 135 at the time, so it was a no go. I was unsure about the floor rails as well, but I can see many uses now (other than dirt collectors). Fortunately VanGo sold me their 135 Con-pearl at a great price, all mounting hardware included labeled, but I failed to get his side rails. So for paneling and the rails, I'm in about $550, and the LC2 and I'm at ~$760, including fasteners. Oh well!!!
 
#39 ·
Very thin uhmw washer/tape around the pin. That's what they do with metal bed frames (I could snap a photo of a bed we have this way). Allows the slats to be quickly moved or broken down and allows free movement (and no squeaks).

Sure, I think you could wrap a cable velcro tie around them if you worried about them popping off. I assumed you were throwing a sheet of plywood on them.

Can you just put the beams over the top of the angle brackets?

BTW: looks super cool.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Thank you -- I still have plenty of time to overcomplicate it or otherwise screw it up! But I do like the industrial look with the computer grey panels, floor and ceiling, with matching BSS Contura III switches. And the only holes I've cut are in replaceable plastic panels. As I think you pointed out a while back, the black switch plates I used give great contrast for finding the switches. I tried the beams over the top but they get very wobbly due to the relatively narrow L bracket.

What is a uhmw washer?

One advantage of using 5 beams is that I can get away with very thin plywood, like 1/4" or 3/8" max, except inthe gap between the last rail and the rear doors. Using those 3 or 4 inches makes a big difference in room upfront -- I am planning on a 76" bed to accommodate my children who for some reason tower over my 69 inches. I think the platform will end up being lighter than if I had fewer beams and heavier wood. And as you point out, a minimal fastener will be fine, especially with light plywood.
 
#41 ·
That looks fantastic- excellent planning and execution! Simple, strong and flexible since it should be pretty easy to remove.

Perhaps push button quick release pins through the wood, the frame and the L bracket? With a bit of 1/8" insulating foam from a big box store between the frame and the La bracket you wouldn't have any vibration if you get the correct pin length.

Or maybe even something like this. But you might not have enough length to work with on the L bracket.

 
#45 · (Edited)
That looks fantastic- excellent planning and execution! Simple, strong and flexible since it should be pretty easy to remove.

Perhaps push button quick release pins through the wood, the frame and the L bracket? With a bit of 1/8" insulating foam from a big box store between the frame and the La bracket you wouldn't have any vibration if you get the correct pin length.

Or maybe even something like this. But you might not have enough length to work with on the L bracket.

Those push button pins look great!

In the category of "where DO they get those names?", I think I like the GANGMU TEC's over the Woopeey's!!! Then again the ANJOSHI's are well monikered too. :)
 
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#44 ·
Great idea. I just took a quick look on Amazon -- looks like it would make nice slippery (quiet) "locking feet" if applied to the L brackets -- serves two purposes -- sound deadener and edge for the rail to latch over.

Will uhmw bond to itself so that I could layer tape up to the required height?
 
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