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Anybody have thoughts on the digital rearview mirror in the 2021 metris? Worth it? Useless? Unnecessary?

I have a 2020 metris with barn doors and thinking it would be convenient to have unobstructed rear views. Would be curious if anybody has upgraded to a digital rearview mirror. I would consider 3rd party set ups, but I might prefer sticking to OEM parts. Also not sure if the existing rearview parking camera would be sufficient for a digital mirror.
 

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2021 Metris Getaway
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Anybody have thoughts on the digital rearview mirror in the 2021 metris? Worth it? Useless? Unnecessary?

I have a 2020 metris with barn doors and thinking it would be convenient to have unobstructed rear views. Would be curious if anybody has upgraded to a digital rearview mirror. I would consider 3rd party set ups, but I might prefer sticking to OEM parts. Also not sure if the existing rearview parking camera would be sufficient for a digital mirror.
I've done this for my 2021 Getaway. I have found it to be an awesome improvement. I believe the F84 option to be made by Gentex and an aftermarket version of that Gentex FDM part is available at Crutchfield. I believe only the stalk differs from the F84 but I was able to adapt it to the factory mounting point. The way I installed it places the mirror about 2 inches further back into the cab than stock --just enough to interfere with easy access to my eyeglass holder in the overhead console but otherwise perfect.
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Great job!
What does the camera install look like on the back end?
How does one run said wire(s) or integrate this?
I have a Getaway Poptop. I considered all this insurmountable at first, but I'm gradually figuring it out. I'll try to disasemble and snap a few more pictures by the weekend if the weather in my driveway holds up.

I ran a 14 gauge power wire from the EK1 body builder connector up the A-pillar and then under the cab headliner to meet where I had ran the mirror's wiring harness under the overhead console.

The A-pillar trim only has one screw and a few press in clips holding it in. The screw is under the plastic cover labeled "air bag warning." I used duct tape to secure my power wire away from the air bag deployment path. I used a long plastic drinking straw to fish the wire from the A-pillar down to behind that plastic cover over the EK1. That cover just clips on and off with a little finesse.

The front headliner only has to come down a few inches so you can reach between it and the roof to fish wires. I removed 2 screws under the overhead console which comes loose if you stick a credit card-like tool between the headliner and the plastic center back. The headliner was also held up by the right visor. I fished wires from the back after pulling loose the rubber seal around the opening for the poptop.

The camera coax runs out the back of the front headliner and then along the perimeter of the opening for the poptop under that rubber seal. I haven't done the final camera coax routing in the back end through the rear hatch loom yet. Routing the coax back around the perimeter of the the opening for the poptop was easy, because that rubber seal just slips off and fits back on without much effort. I have the coax under that seal all the way to the center of the rearmost headliner, but I still have to get it back under the headliner where the rear dome light is on the poptop and then through the rear hatch loom. I'm also a bit stumped about how to get the plastic interior trim off the top of the rear hatch. I'm sure it will all seem easy once we have figured it out. I've scoured the upfitting section of the forum for clues.

Other than needing a power feed, the mirror system doesn't need to integrate with any of the other Metris electronics.
 

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I took these pictures while contemplating How To best complete the camera coax routing through the rubber rear hatch wiring loom and then back up under the top portion interior black plastic rear hatch trim to the top-center glass where I have the camera temporarily mounted.

It looks like getting under that last 10" of rear head liner to the hatch loom will be easy, but after partially pulling off the top portion interior hatch trim, I don't see an easy path to just take a short route back to top center as I had hoped for. I've only looked under a small portion of the top interior trim on the passenger side. I think I may need to remove all the hatch trim to investigate a better route. If I don't route back into the rear hatch, I'll have to leave a short loop of coax between the back of the bus and the camera mounted top center of the back glass which will likely work just fine until I figure out the rest of it.

It seems that completing this project as originally intended will depend upon discovering How To get that interior rear hatch trim off-and-on without making a mess. From my brief observational intrusion behind that hatch upper trim, it seems that order and direction of navigating those clips would be important to not breaking something or otherwise leading to a sloppy end result.

Any pointers to resources which may reveal How To successfully get those 2 hatch panel pieces off-and-on would be appreciated --especially the upper portion of the trim in the last picture.

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From my brief observational intrusion behind that hatch upper trim, it seems that order and direction of navigating those clips would be important to not breaking something or otherwise leading to a sloppy end result.

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View attachment 20080
The "order and direction" regarding those metal clips holding the upper rear hatch trim on ended up being fairly easy. The "direction" was just to pull the plastic squarely away from the metal. There are plastic tabs that engage those metal clips by just pressing straight in. The "order" mainly seems to apply iff the metal clip comes disengaged from its slot in the hatch. If that happens, pull it loose from the plastic tab and press it back into its slot on the hatch before attempting to press the tabs back into the metal clips. (see picture 20080)

I found a youtube video that shows removal of the lower portion of the hatch trim. Advance to 1:20 to get to the relevant part. Of course, not all of my efforts would be relevant to barn doors.


I'll complete my camera coax cable routing the next time the sun shines in my driveway.
 
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The "order and direction" regarding those metal clips holding the upper rear hatch trim on ended up being fairly easy. The "direction" was just to pull the plastic squarely away from the metal. There are plastic tabs that engage those metal clips by just pressing straight in. The "order" mainly seems to apply iff the metal clip comes disengaged from its slot in the hatch. If that happens, pull it loose from the plastic tab and press it back into its slot on the hatch before attempting to press the tabs back into the metal clips. (see picture 20080)

I found a youtube video that shows removal of the lower portion of the hatch trim. Advance to 1:20 to get to the relevant part. Of course, not all of my efforts would be relevant to barn doors.


I'll complete my camera coax cable routing the next time the sun shines in my driveway.
Great find.

A popup window in the hatch door?
How cool is that!

Never seen one of those on a modern mainstream minivan, only some suv here and there.
 

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I completed my cable routing into my rear hatch today. I was having a little trouble with my iPad, so I didn't get many pictures. I discovered a couple of caveats with work-a-rounds.

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Caveat 1: When you pull this lower hatch trim off at the bottom corners Do Not try to wrangle the corners off like they did at 1:20 in the video above. If you try to stretch the corners over like they did you will crack the corners of your panel. Remove those 2 torx bolts holding door striker guides to make room for the panel to slip off.

Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Car Automotive lighting


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The bottom of the lower panel is held in place by orange plastic press-in clips. This next pic shows the top of the lower trim panel is held on by the same type of metal clips seen in the upper panel.
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I pulled a portion of this away with a little finesse. We have to fish the coax down there later.
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The route out the back to the hatch wiring loom has to go above the foam (and whatever it wraps up) and out through another oval hole you can't see to get out the back of the bus through this exterior oval hole that you can see. I'm missing a frame showing me pulling the coax out the back with that yellow coat hanger shown here ready to pull though the rubber exterior hatch loom. Caveat 2: Do not let the plastic bracket slip back into the roof. Tape it to secure it while you are wrangling everything around. I was exceptionally lucky to have retrieved it when that happened to me.
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To facilitate getting the coax through that rubber loom, I removed the plastic part of the FAKRA connector on one of the 2 10 foot extensions revealing the SMB-like connector underneath. It still fit pretty tight and later when the extension was reconnected to the final 4 foot length with the right angle connector, I taped it well to further ensure that it would never come loose. Do not mess with the right angle connector that attaches directly to the camera.

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Here it is after I removed the plastic part of FAKRA connector. You might find a better way.
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After having pulled the coax through the rubber hatch loom, this is me getting ready to pull it down into the bottom part of the hatch. Then it will loop back up under the plastic trim.
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I'm missing a frame showing the final routing of the coax up under the upper rear trim to where the camera is mounted top-center pointing out the rear glass. After trying it both high and low, I settled on top-center, because when the rear wiper arm swipes across in front of the camera, it interferes with the image in a very distracting manner. Mounted up high the thinner wiper blade is barely noticeable when it swipes across.
 
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