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Crankcase Ventilation Purge Valve

122257 Views 273 Replies 74 Participants Last post by  darinf
I had to have my Crankcase Ventilation Purge Valve replaced. I was billed for 12 hours of labor. Has anyone else dealt with this problem?
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I found that particularly funny since it is standard procedure on almost all modern vans.
And the door still closes!
I too thought he was way overly opinionated on the Metris. And there is definitely a "cheap big *ss V8" bias as the solution to any durability and power issue. Magic Mike's comments were a bit more pointed for me as he purports to have worked in a SoCal dealership. He focused on the actual emissions issue being a recurring issue across the M274 line, which is believable.

Anyway, has anyone in a warm climate had the issue?
I was wondering the same - whether this is a cold climate issue? Certainly is a design issue! Has anyone come across (or made?) a video of the Metros solution to the PCV purge valve issue ?
The primary design issue is that something that should be a $50 part and a billable hour of labor that should take 15 minutes is a $1800 ordeal. PCV valves failing is not that uncommon, but its usually a minor repair.
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I am wondering if it the failure of the valve is the positioning of it, kinda laying sideways which does not allow natural drain back of any oil vapor? Also on the plastic canister, wonder if it would be a good idea to add a low side drain with a plug you could drain at oil change intervals? At least the reseviour is a decent size and capacity compared to other vehicles.
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I took a crack at the Metros repair - thinking I would have it done in a few hours. I got turned back when it came to connecting the new bleed line to the old system at the lower end. I could not see how to reach far enough toward engine to connect at the end of pictured exposed tube. Nor was I confident in cutting the pictured tube and making a connection in an area that I can access. I got the top clamp off - thankfully I found a tool in my engine bay which proved useful ;-) to get that part of the job done. But the next step seemed too risky for me as I could see no easy path forward. Any specific suggestions on how to treat this part of the operation ?
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My CEL came on last week. Took it to the dealer. Yep, same thing. Standard warranty for much of the van is 100,000km. I was 300 miles over. I got the extended warranty so everything is good for 6 years 160,000km.
The light disappeared the next day and hasn't come on again. I guess I should get it done anyway?
Answer my own question. No need to get access from bottom for a GLC-300. Wouldn’t hurt but not needed. Biggest pain is disconnecting everything. Each wire and hose seems to have a different lock system. Be patient, go slow. Getting wiring off the purge valve itself will take some creative work. I made a pick from a flat head screwdriver bent 90 degrees and flattened to reach in to disconnect that wire. Have four #4 hose clamps just in case. Good luck
hello sir, i am in same boat like you, GLC-300 4matic , same error code two weeks ago, only 27K miles, warranty expired 4 weeks ago, and light came with same P052e code, seems out of luck, because one end is easy to disconnect as clamp is there , but i didn't get properly how to joint (oil seprator side) ? is it possible you can post some of pics. it really appricaited , thanks in advance
  • adding my two cent
  • CEL pops when its COLD thats correct
  • METROS solution seems effective , because my CEL pops almost 8500KM ( almost oil change time) so i change the oil, i leave the drain plug open for almost 45 minute till last drop of oil came out, than filled with original MB oil , and CEL gone for 2 days , means while it drain it also drain purge line (i guess) but valve was already gunky from older oil so expected to CEL back.
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Did the valve replacement mod. CEL is back off again. Took some pictures to show some areas of the install. Previous comments on removing the coolant reservoir line and being careful of the connector on the valve are accurate. Broke both, added $60 to the cost of the repair.
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How many hour did it take you? How many miles on the van.
When I did my halted operation, I blew the valve out with a bicycle pump before putting in back together. Cleared the code. So far so good. But we are in the warmer spring weather now - if that makes a difference. Still not sure enough how to connect to join on lower oil separator side to try again. And in the meantime I have a right rear wheel sensor to deal with!
The
When I did my halted operation, I blew the valve out with a bicycle pump before putting in back together. Cleared the code. So far so good. But we are in the warmer spring weather now - if that makes a difference. Still not sure enough how to connect to join on lower oil separator side to try again. And in the meantime I have a right rear wheel sensor to deal with!
the bicycle pump solution lasted all of 50 km before check engine light came back on.
Mine is back at 69k (mi) like clockwork. Last time it was barely covered under warranty at 35k. I think I've also been driving too many short trips in the cold.
When I did my halted operation, I blew the valve out with a bicycle pump before putting in back together.
You mean you blew backwards? I was wondering if I could also just backflow the system to clean it. I removed the hose at the intake manifold and prior to trying an air compressor, I added a tube extension and tried blowing backwards through the valve. Won't flow; however, sucking through it forwards has no restriction. I think this actually makes sense to prevent boost from flowing backwards into the crankcase (elementary PCV function). Air blow seems impossible without removing the valve's inlet side...I'll get to that later when I have parts to reconnect it. Thanks for the info there, Metros and also RS2!

Some extra info: valve is normally-open when de-energized and is closed during "deceleration mode", likely meaning high-vacuum situations like regular old PCV valves do. There also appears to be a "vent line contact switch (S208)" that must sense pressure or flow, but is not shown anywhere on the diagrams. I'd like to know what actually triggers the CEL.

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Just had my mechanic do the @Metros valve replacement. The total cost with parts, tax , and labor was $244 USD. I sure hope it works.
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