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Metros, thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I've been dreading this job when it happens. The van has been great, 6 years and 93,000 miles, zero cost other than consumables....that includes head lights..lol.
You are welcome, nothing to dread about. Hope the van stays reliable!Metros, thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I've been dreading this job when it happens. The van has been great, 6 years and 93,000 miles, zero cost other than consumables....that includes head lights..lol.
Just finished this job, and many thanks for being the guinea pig on this more cost effective fix!Yeah, that little hose is glued/bonded to the valve. Basically, I just cut the old hose at that point on the valve, then I reused that section of the old hose by connecting the new hose (with new valve) to it.
That way you you don't have to pull the oil separator (the little hose is bonded to it) that sits below. The oil seperator is inaccessible without removing the engine mount and a bunch of other things. For that reason I left the oil separator alone.
You're very welcome, I'm glad my "cheap fix" worked for you tooJust finished this job, and many thanks for being the guinea pig on this more cost effective fix!
Word of caution, may be worthwhile to disconnect the small coolant hose going to the coolant expansion tank as it’s somewhat in the way when you’re reaching down to work on the valve. I didn’t and broke the connector, so had to get that fixed too. Even so, much better than having to do the full assembly. Hope the check engine light stays off!
While I can’t comment on it holding up “long term”, I will say that before the fix, clearing the code would result in the check engine light popping right back up in a few miles. When I pulled and inspected the old part, there was oil that had leaked into the connector which definitely seemed to indicate the failure of the valve. I’ve since taken a road trip and put several hundred miles on the van and gone from freezing temps and back to warm weather here in AZ, and the light has stayed off. Pretty sure it’s fixed. If you’re handy doing it yourself, or have an independent mechanic willing to do the fix per your instructions, I’d say it’s well worth the low risk (IMO) of it not working vs. paying exorbitant dealer prices.Just checking to see if anyone has had longterm success with the fix metros came up with?
I'm the second owner of a 2018 w/38k miles with no warranty.
Dealer says aprox $2400 to fix
Thanks
David
I’d say it’s a 3, and mostly because my hands don’t easily fit in the area where you have to cut the hose from the original part and clamp the new one on. With a buddy, it took a couple oh hours taking out time and battling with a couple of connectors. Patched up in a few short minutes. No special tools just as METROS said.Hi all,
CEL popped on yesterday while driving. I am second owner of 2016 passenger van at 56k miles.
I just got this diagnosis (Not by MB) to replace crankcase vent valve assembly. This is my first time not going to dealership because they were backed up 6weeks. Went to Sandy Point S in Portland, OR because heard a tip from other Metris Owner that they had an ex MB van tech. I was verbally quoted $1,200 for the parts and they are still trying to figure out the labor. Seems like this could get pretty expensive. I have a call into MB… I don’t have any extra warranty but trying to determine from the thread if a general engine warranty would cover this fix?
What is difficultly 1-10 of the DIY repair?
Is the ECU removal pretty straight forward? Just unplug unclip and remove?WORTH A TRY!
I've just recently replaced just the purge valve itself aka "bleed line" (sans the intake tubing and oil separator) and so far the Check engine light hasn't come back. My cost was $75, self-installed. The original valve was full of oil and leaky
View attachment 19742
Part number: 2740187301
Correct! Remove its bracket as well. Nice and easy.Is the ECU removal pretty straight forward? Just unplug unclip and remove?
I just replaced mine. A few words of caution. Absolutely remove the coolant reservoir hose, I broke mine also. Be extremely careful with the ECU lock levers, I broke the rear one and a MB parts desk guy told me that is very very common. It’s possible to move the ECU out of the way while still connected to the rear harness. I broke the wire end connector that goes to the replacement part. These are also very very fragile so have one ready, they are very common on the Metris(MB part # A 000 545 60 19), $6 at the dealer, and get the prongs too. Lastly, raise the front end a few inches, remove the underneath the engine cover and there is excellent bonus access to the lower hose/rigid plastic tube. Thanks Metros for your efforts in narrowing down to a good solution.You're very welcome, I'm glad my "cheap fix" worked for you tooJob well done!
And yes, you're absolutely correct on that word of caution. Generally, you want to move/remove as many thing as reasonably possible out of the way of repair - less things to break, easier to work and safer too.
Has anyone found a work around on the m274 engine crankcase breather? I have found that when turbo pressure enters the crankcase you get a code, the pcv valve is supposed to stop this , when it fails the computer senses the extra pressure, i installed a 10mm check valve from ebay for 2.99 and the light whet out.Here are pictures of what we are dealing with.