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Metros, thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I've been dreading this job when it happens. The van has been great, 6 years and 93,000 miles, zero cost other than consumables....that includes head lights..lol.
 

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Yeah, that little hose is glued/bonded to the valve. Basically, I just cut the old hose at that point on the valve, then I reused that section of the old hose by connecting the new hose (with new valve) to it.
That way you you don't have to pull the oil separator (the little hose is bonded to it) that sits below. The oil seperator is inaccessible without removing the engine mount and a bunch of other things. For that reason I left the oil separator alone.
Just finished this job, and many thanks for being the guinea pig on this more cost effective fix!

Word of caution, may be worthwhile to disconnect the small coolant hose going to the coolant expansion tank as it’s somewhat in the way when you’re reaching down to work on the valve. I didn’t and broke the connector, so had to get that fixed too. Even so, much better than having to do the full assembly. Hope the check engine light stays off!
 

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Just finished this job, and many thanks for being the guinea pig on this more cost effective fix!

Word of caution, may be worthwhile to disconnect the small coolant hose going to the coolant expansion tank as it’s somewhat in the way when you’re reaching down to work on the valve. I didn’t and broke the connector, so had to get that fixed too. Even so, much better than having to do the full assembly. Hope the check engine light stays off!
You're very welcome, I'm glad my "cheap fix" worked for you too ;) Job well done!

And yes, you're absolutely correct on that word of caution. Generally, you want to move/remove as many thing as reasonably possible out of the way of repair - less things to break, easier to work and safer too.
 

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Just checking to see if anyone has had longterm success with the fix metros came up with?
I'm the second owner of a 2018 w/38k miles with no warranty.
Dealer says aprox $2400 to fix

Thanks
David
 

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Just checking to see if anyone has had longterm success with the fix metros came up with?
I'm the second owner of a 2018 w/38k miles with no warranty.
Dealer says aprox $2400 to fix

Thanks
David
While I can’t comment on it holding up “long term”, I will say that before the fix, clearing the code would result in the check engine light popping right back up in a few miles. When I pulled and inspected the old part, there was oil that had leaked into the connector which definitely seemed to indicate the failure of the valve. I’ve since taken a road trip and put several hundred miles on the van and gone from freezing temps and back to warm weather here in AZ, and the light has stayed off. Pretty sure it’s fixed. If you’re handy doing it yourself, or have an independent mechanic willing to do the fix per your instructions, I’d say it’s well worth the low risk (IMO) of it not working vs. paying exorbitant dealer prices.
 

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Hi all,

CEL popped on yesterday while driving. I am second owner of 2016 passenger van at 56k miles.

I just got this diagnosis (Not by MB) to replace crankcase vent valve assembly. This is my first time not going to dealership because they were backed up 6weeks. Went to Sandy Point S in Portland, OR because heard a tip from other Metris Owner that they had an ex MB van tech. I was verbally quoted $1,200 for the parts and they are still trying to figure out the labor. Seems like this could get pretty expensive. I have a call into MB… I don’t have any extra warranty but trying to determine from the thread if a general engine warranty would cover this fix?

What is difficultly 1-10 of the DIY repair?
 

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Hi all,

CEL popped on yesterday while driving. I am second owner of 2016 passenger van at 56k miles.

I just got this diagnosis (Not by MB) to replace crankcase vent valve assembly. This is my first time not going to dealership because they were backed up 6weeks. Went to Sandy Point S in Portland, OR because heard a tip from other Metris Owner that they had an ex MB van tech. I was verbally quoted $1,200 for the parts and they are still trying to figure out the labor. Seems like this could get pretty expensive. I have a call into MB… I don’t have any extra warranty but trying to determine from the thread if a general engine warranty would cover this fix?

What is difficultly 1-10 of the DIY repair?
I’d say it’s a 3, and mostly because my hands don’t easily fit in the area where you have to cut the hose from the original part and clamp the new one on. With a buddy, it took a couple oh hours taking out time and battling with a couple of connectors. Patched up in a few short minutes. No special tools just as METROS said.
 

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WORTH A TRY!

I've just recently replaced just the purge valve itself aka "bleed line" (sans the intake tubing and oil separator) and so far the Check engine light hasn't come back. My cost was $75, self-installed. The original valve was full of oil and leaky
View attachment 19742

Part number: 2740187301
Is the ECU removal pretty straight forward? Just unplug unclip and remove?
 

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I just bought a 2016 Metris and was told the check engine light was for a PCV valve. Which from past experience I understood to be a basic tune up part. I bought it from a GM dealer and they promised to fix it before I pick it up... just found this thread, and I imagine the whole place is cursing my name right now. They've had the van for a week and won't tell me what's going on.
 

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^Congrats and welcome!

Information is everything. They could always look up this forum for clues ;)

I’m curious about what they will end up doing though, probably send it to MB?! Please keep us posted.
 

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You're very welcome, I'm glad my "cheap fix" worked for you too ;) Job well done!

And yes, you're absolutely correct on that word of caution. Generally, you want to move/remove as many thing as reasonably possible out of the way of repair - less things to break, easier to work and safer too.
I just replaced mine. A few words of caution. Absolutely remove the coolant reservoir hose, I broke mine also. Be extremely careful with the ECU lock levers, I broke the rear one and a MB parts desk guy told me that is very very common. It’s possible to move the ECU out of the way while still connected to the rear harness. I broke the wire end connector that goes to the replacement part. These are also very very fragile so have one ready, they are very common on the Metris(MB part # A 000 545 60 19), $6 at the dealer, and get the prongs too. Lastly, raise the front end a few inches, remove the underneath the engine cover and there is excellent bonus access to the lower hose/rigid plastic tube. Thanks Metros for your efforts in narrowing down to a good solution.
 

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I know, this is late but we are looking into getting a used Metris and now having second thoughts. We owned a 2008 C280 4matic and my seat warmer burnt a hole through the leather and damaged my sweater. Our vehicle was not part of the recall and I could not get the dealer I bought it from to budge on replacement. I filed a case with NHTSA and then spammed their MBUSA Facebook page with photos and pictures of my burnt seat. They contacted me and agreed to pay for the repair. Protecting brand image is a powerful tool.
 

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Welcome to the forum, @VXNOVA

I would not let some of these issues one can see on a forum scare me away from buying a Metris. Pretty much any car can or will have issues after a number of years, just like some will have a couple issue from the factory. Going to a dedicated forum may leave the impression that an issue is super widespread ... while it may not be. It is not like some product issues where within 1 week there are 1000 complaints and growing ...

What Metris are you looking at? Year. Mileage. ...
 

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Now that the parts in do I need to clear the error code or will it clear itself if I drive it a certain amount of miles?
My friend has a interface to clear codes but it won't clear it after I installed the new part. It's still giving the same check engine light
Thanks

David
 
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