Mercedes-Benz Metris Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi y’all! Great forum, I’ve been glued last night and this morning...Looking to buy 2019 new, need for cargo. I haul furniture and other old stuff- have antiques shop. Maybe I’m missing something obvious, but if seats are removed (and I believe they’re pretty easily removed?) what’s the difference in the open rear space that’s left besides tracks on the floor and more windows? Neither of those things bother me for my purposes. I don’t like white vehicles and I see some fancy looking blue passengers with the nice wheels that are actually priced less than the white cargos anyway. TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
914 Posts
You lose several inches of interior width with the pax van due to airbags and side panels. This may be most critical though the wheel wells. I waited almost a year for my navy blue cargo 135. Well worth the wait, great vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I have a passenger van that bought primarily for cargo use. I use it to carry my road racing motorcycle. I chose it for creature comforts since some tracks are a long distance for me. My is loaded with all options. I think it works great. I bought a 2016 with 40k miles on it. It was a California lemon law vehicle ( door rattle, they say) so I got a very good deal on it. Mercedes went through it completely before auctioning it off.

I think the passenger vans a great deal. They can often be found for less than a Ford, Chevy, or M-B cargo van. Only problem is the rather crud passenger seats and no ability to have a single second row seat. A simple captains chair from Metris seats.com was $1959 shipped to me in Ga. I have, what believe to be, a safe modification to allow use of the single seat.

I have used a 4x6 piece of clear oak with three 5/16” carriage bolts into the track. I then capped it with 3/16” stainless steel. 3/8” x 4” lag bolts function as pins from the sides and, for additional safety, the whole thing is strapped down into the locking pins with heavy duty tie downs.
Love my van.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I use my passenger metris as a cargo for my woodworking biz. It was much easier to find a pass version with more safety features (blind spot, backup cam) as well as some creature comforts (upgraded seats, nicer wheels). I would highly recommend finding one with a trailer hitch already, as adding one aftermarket is very expensive and time consuming. Thats my only regret. I removed all the seats when I got home and built cabinets for all my tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I second the recommendation for a factory-installed hitch. I got a U-Haul hitch on my cargo. It actually was inexpensive and didn't take long to install, BUT it significantly reduces rear clearance. I bottom out all the time. Others on this forum have suggested passenger variants are less likely to have the factory hitch already installed, though.

Also consider what you're hauling. If you think you will ever haul sheet goods like plywood, it won't lay flat in a passenger variant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Unless you are certain you are going to tear it up, or dont want glass, or plan on hauling lots of plywood I do not see a problem going passenger. The floor can be tender for really heavy pointy stuff though.

When i haul plywood i throw down a rough cut 2x6 on one side to angle the sheets a bit. A sheet actually seems like if you jumped on it it would "fit", BUT i think it damages the AC unit, and would need to be pried out.
For rough stuff the headliner snags easy. I use blankets when putting hog panels, metal scrap, farm machinery, etc in my PAX. I love that i can go from hauling stuff and junk, to hauling 8 passengers, both features get used constantly. BUT the seats are stupid heavy, you need a helper. I think the 3 up are 200 lbs or so, and awkward.

If you get a pax, look into the euro rails that are adjustable, if you ran just the 2 up seat, you could slide it as needed. The extra rail (that would need to be fitted) would be nice for cargo too.

Go look at both.

I need my van to be a PAX van most of the time, so i got pax, but realize the cargo has one major advantage that the pax does not have in our continent...

...it is available in 135" wheelbase instead of just 126, I wish we had the 135" in pax here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I second the recommendation for a factory-installed hitch. I got a U-Haul hitch on my cargo. It actually was inexpensive and didn't take long to install, BUT it significantly reduces rear clearance. I bottom out all the time. Others on this forum have suggested passenger variants are less likely to have the factory hitch already installed, though.

Also consider what you're hauling. If you think you will ever haul sheet goods like plywood, it won't lay flat in a passenger variant.
hey, did you get the brake lights to work with the trailer hitch?? Was that an issue hooking that up?? I haven't tried yet, but from reading other threads, it doesn't seem to be just plug and play if it isn't factory installed... (please give details on your light hookup if you have that working and know what parts you used!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
hey, did you get the brake lights to work with the trailer hitch?? Was that an issue hooking that up?? I haven't tried yet, but from reading other threads, it doesn't seem to be just plug and play if it isn't factory installed... (please give details on your light hookup if you have that working and know what parts you used!)
This does not totally answer your question, but does tell what is involved in terms of the "factory setup". My van did not have a hitch from the factory, but i negotiated during the sale.

"For vans that have E58 (pre-wire) (standard equipment), but do not have Q24 (trailer hitch), there are some parts that need to be ordered. I haven't dug into one of the Metris I have here on the ground to see what all it already has in it, but I'm willing to bet that I'm correct in my assumptions.


With code E58, MB sells a US receiver trailer coupling (no electrical). Part number is: A 447 310 04 00 MSRP: $359
As for the additional components needed, they are:
A 020 545 40 26 -- Socket -- $54
A 447 540 62 36 -- Electrical Wiring Harness -- $57
A 447 900 41 05 -- Trailer Recognition Control Unit -- $306 (this is the successor/newest part number)
A 447 900 63 04 -- Trailer Recognition Control Unit -- $306 (this is showing as the predecessor part number, which tells me that once this stock is depleted, the one above is replacing)
N 0000 0000 32 76 -- Nut (6 of them needed) -- $2.40/each
N 9101 0501 20 01 -- Hexagon Screw (6 of them needed) -- $5.50/each


WIS-NET document number is AN31.10-S-8080EE Your techs should know what that means and be able to look it up.


Total suggested labor times for everything looks to be just under 4 hours according to our ODUS system. When requesting coding for XENTRY system, it looks like it's still referred to as Vito-Class or V-Class in XENTRY system. That will allow the code to be downloaded and then flashed to the ECU to ensure that trailer recognition control unit functions correctly (disables blind spot assist while trailer wiring connected, etc)."


This was originally posted by scottmcdaniel1 here:
https://www.metrisforum.com/forum/1.../5394-fitting-oe-trailer-hitch-harness-2.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
hey, did you get the brake lights to work with the trailer hitch?? Was that an issue hooking that up?? I haven't tried yet, but from reading other threads, it doesn't seem to be just plug and play if it isn't factory installed... (please give details on your light hookup if you have that working and know what parts you used!)
I can't offer much detail other than I went to U-Haul (on the recommendation of the dealer I bought from), and about two hours later I drove away with a SUPER low hitch but the lights work fine. In retrospect I should have done a little more research on here about the hitch setup. It looks like the U-Haul guys probably spliced into the existing wiring. They were following guidelines per their hitch but I doubt it took into account any kind of MB electronic interface. I remember thinking the process seemed a bit of a hack job considering the van is prewired. But it worked and I was happy with that.

I'd love to be enlightened about the benefits of the factory hitch (other than the vastly better receiver location)... what am I missing?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,743 Posts
Trailer Stability Assist, essentially the ESP takes into account the presence of a trailer and automatically works to combat sway. If fitted, the blind spot monitoring is disabled when you fit a trailer as, obviously, it wouldn’t take into account the trailer.
You also gain a second camera view that is designed to assist in hooking up a trailer.

Also the factory hitch is higher and partially cuts away the bumper, giving you substantially superior clearance in back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Trailer Stability Assist, essentially the ESP takes into account the presence of a trailer and automatically works to combat sway. If fitted, the blind spot monitoring is disabled when you fit a trailer as, obviously, it wouldn’t take into account the trailer.
You also gain a second camera view that is designed to assist in hooking up a trailer.

Also the factory hitch is higher and partially cuts away the bumper, giving you substantially superior clearance in back.
GML how do you enable the second camera view? The backup has been great for hooking up trailers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Thanks GML! That second camera view is intriguing, though I haven't had too much trouble with the standard view.

I can see now that if I have to do this over again I would put a much higher priority on getting a factory hitch instead of aftermarket. My driveway has enough gashes in it from the aftermarket one...
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top