Mercedes-Benz Metris Forum banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've mostly decided to just purchase a GFCI 12g extension cord connected to a surge protector in the Van for shore power. Besides out the window with the doors closed, where would be the best spot to throw it out the Van? I am hopeful after reading about folks finding spots in other vans where they can close doors and not compromise the cord. Perhaps I am dreaming. It wouldn't be the first time :nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think so. The follow up is that the RV people quoted me ~$500-800 to set it up. I don't think that I trust doing it myself. I therefore want to try NOT putting a hole in the floor and go simple. If no one has any thoughts, I'll try various door closures on a mock extension cord in the spring. I'll let folks know if anything works out. Although, I maybe the only one interested in the info ;)
 

·
Registered
2019 Passenger
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
I think so. The follow up is that the RV people quoted me ~$500-800 to set it up. I don't think that I trust doing it myself. I therefore want to try NOT putting a hole in the floor and go simple. If no one has any thoughts, I'll try various door closures on a mock extension cord in the spring. I'll let folks know if anything works out. Although, I maybe the only one interested in the info ;)
800 bucks for what? A hole?

You want some sort of magic way to get a 12ga extension cord plug into the interior of the van without using the door or windows?

I really do recommend using a standard rv plug. In the other thread I linked to some. You can then buy and adapter to made a standard extension cord to it. Make it permanent and add an outlet inside.

You don't really even need anything fancy to plug a hole. Two plates, rubber gasket and a bolt and nut. If you have good aim it can double as a urinal and you can cover it with an magnetic plate or a pair of gym socks. heh.
 

·
Registered
2018 Metris Passenger
Joined
·
343 Posts
I usually use a flat cord at the bottom of the lift gate where rain won't get in. Then run a long cord to wherever. Haven't tried it with the metris though.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Pounce: I appreciate all of the help! I will keep trying to find someone to put a hole in the Van for less than quoted. I'm not sure why folks are crazy with their pricing here.

Magic? No. I was previously hoping for some vent or other passage point to the outside that would have a little room for a cord.

I will also try to sort out whether I am capable of doing it myself this spring with the guidance you provided. Tools along with the supplies will need to be purchased if I go this route.

Already purchased a porta potti. No need for a urinal ;)

Cord out the door is probably a good idea for awhile anyway while we figure out what the best camper layout is for us, and therefore perfect hole placement. Again, thanks!

Imacd: Thanks! I have cargo doors but good to know that others are successfully throwing the cord out the door. I will try to find the least crushing location and technique for cord tossing.
 

·
Registered
2016 Cargo converted into a camper van
Joined
·
341 Posts
I've got a 2016 cargo and have looked extensively for openings in the back for a cord- I sure haven't found any. I did not explore under the hood coming through the firewall since that did not fit well into my electrical layout.

I ended up drilling a hole for the shore power (just forward of the rear drivers side wheel) and another for a propane locker vent (rear corner on the drivers side). I'm converting my van into a camper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
that stainless steel 'nice plug' is a 30 amp version. plus it's 'BIG' looking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lala

·
Registered
2019 Passenger
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
that stainless steel 'nice plug' is a 30 amp version. plus it's 'BIG' looking.
Do you mean the one I posted?

Is that being critical of it or?

I personally wound not put this on the side of the van. Its perfect for under the van like I have suggested. Screw on cover and its stainless.
 

·
Registered
2016 Cargo converted into a camper van
Joined
·
341 Posts
The 30 amp connector will require a special plug, a circular locking type of set up. http://www.marinco.com/en/products/connect/plugs-and-connectors/30-amp

Of course you can buy, or make, an adapter to connect a standard 20 amp plug to the 30 amp receptacle.

But you won't get 30 amps of power from any of your standard house circuits since they are 20 amps, or even 15 amps. Some RV parks offer 30 and 50 amp service for the large motor homes. The larger RV's are wired to accept higher amperage's (30 or even 50 amps) since the monster sized RV crowd need lots of power to run their refrigerator/freezer, water heater, stereo, TV, satellite dish, microwave, hair dryer and air conditioner (s) to have a good camping experience....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Okay, sorry about not posting what I did sooner. I thought that I had. I ended up finding a spot just behind the rear wheel well that had ~1-2” hole to the outside. It was right next to the portion of the plastic rear bumper that wraps around to the side. I drilled a hole in the plastic “side” bumper large enough to fit the marine plug. I cut the plug off a 15amp fused 4 outlet extension cord with ?14g wire from Lowe’s and fed the wire from the inside to the outside through the holes. I then exposed the 3 individual wires and connected them to their respective spots on the marine plug and secured the marine plug onto the bumper for shore power. It works great and the whole thing cost ~$30-40. Not GFCI but.....it works. I did review my work with a contractor friend, and suggest the same for those that “don’t know” like me. Also, I might not have remembered it all correctly as well, it was a while ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
I think so. The follow up is that the RV people quoted me ~$500-800 to set it up. I don't think that I trust doing it myself. I therefore want to try NOT putting a hole in the floor and go simple. If no one has any thoughts, I'll try various door closures on a mock extension cord in the spring. I'll let folks know if anything works out. Although, I maybe the only one interested in the info ;)
Tree95 it would be nice if I would read your post one week ago :) I am using the same
https://www.campingworld.com/15-amp-inlet-black?rrec=true
and I am working on it just now, (did have to stop do to snow and cold) will continue tomorrow.
For me I found the best place to install this power inlet back driver side of the Metris. inside I am runig a pice of extention cord #16 to a regular https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2...KdG3Tpsqh-DoqilgfoI0Or8FnhH60w7BoCjMcQAvD_BwE,

Lala, you can do it yourself, just find a spot where you may like it I have sliders on both sides so I had to dril past that you need 1.7" dril bit and if your side of the van is exesible also from the inside it will take you maximum an hour to locate a spot and install the power inlet. All camp sites, that have 120 pover have also protection with circuit breakers so you may not need to buy the GFCI Receptacle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Okay, sorry about not posting what I did sooner. I thought that I had. I ended up finding a spot just behind the rear wheel well that had ~1-2” hole to the outside. It was right next to the portion of the plastic rear bumper that wraps around to the side. I drilled a hole in the plastic “side” bumper large enough to fit the marine plug. I cut the plug off a 15amp fused 4 outlet extension cord with ?14g wire from Lowe’s and fed the wire from the inside to the outside through the holes. I then exposed the 3 individual wires and connected them to their respective spots on the marine plug and secured the marine plug onto the bumper for shore power. It works great and the whole thing cost ~$30-40. Not GFCI but.....it works. I did review my work with a contractor friend, and suggest the same for those that “don’t know” like me. Also, I might not have remembered it all correctly as well, it was a while ago.
Lala2 for some reason your post just appeared front of my post, I also see that this thread started way back year ago :) but I was informed about it yesterday, I have miss that all together so I went the hard way, have searched on my own, and have given you info, that you no longer need, well it may help somebody in the future:)if they see the thread on time :) I gratulate you for saving $500.00 I have no idea where the guys get the pricing :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Thank you Baron. I always appreciate your input! The more quality information the better. I apologize for not noticing that I hadn’t closed the loop on my question sooner ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Thank you Baron. I always appreciate your input! The more quality information the better. I apologize for not noticing that I hadn’t closed the loop on my question sooner ?
thank you Lala2, I am sure that for somebody it could be helpful to read this thread, are you continuing to build your "camper" ? I still like to install some windows and extra solar panel on the roof, maybe some fan somewhere not in the pop up roof :) I have found electric 12V fridge for $99.00 that fits in between the front seats...I am waiting on my dear friend from Vancouver CA. to tell me how to run my other house battery on the car alternator, than I may not need to employ solar that much, still lots of plans with the poor man Marco Polo :).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Baron: what a great price on that 12v fridge!
I am mostly done with my simple build. I have all of the essentials: insulation, bed, a place for the bikes, swivel seats, Rei folding table & chairs for outside, water storage etc., stove, Dometic slim/tall fridge between the front seats, kitchen stuff, storage with working surface, first aid kit, camco toilet, Kodiak power hub, small 60w folding solar panel, small heater, shore power, blackout window panels and an emergency bottle of wine.

Considering:
1) instead of awning- clam quick set traveler pop up 6’x6’ screen room with wind panels, to be clipped to side of van.
2) a more “always set up” screen system for the sliding door. I currently have screen attached to a curtain rod that I throw over the roof rail.
3) build an enclosed box over the wheel wells for cleaner look, junk storage and more bed support. Our bed is solid but.....just in case.
4) obd2 reader for dummies- in case we get stuck somewhere and need a repair. Which one?
5) weboost drive sleek and mobile WiFi set up. I have been places where this would have helped out. I’m talking to you Taos, NM.
6) back up power- Minnakota? power box ~$50 with blemish agm battery from local battery store ~$60.
7) Folding 100w solar panel.

Also, I don’t think that I need the alternator to extra battery thing. The Kodiak power system has a way with the optional cord that will connect to the 12v socket of the van and fully charge up from near depletion (what I was told) with ~4hrs of driving. I keep the fridge and electronics plugged in whilst it is charging. It has worked well for us. We have not yet taken a long trip or taken the power down to 20%, near depletion.

I have a “simple conversion” thread on the forum that I will post photos to after our next big trip. We were pretty darn happy with the set up during our last trip to Durango.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top