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yes, the SC campers' links are definitely shortened.
i could have welded it but wanted to retain the option for adjustment.
Yours looks cooler!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'd like to see how the factory does it. I'd be worried about compromising the integrity of the sway bar links, but I'm neither a metallurgist nor an engineer. The weld or threaded adjusting collar seem like potentially new failure points?
i'm not worried about that. the threaded sleeve covers 25 mm on each end of the rod of 10 mm diameter.
same with the welded sleeve the SC campers' way.
and even if one breaks it's only the sway bar being impacted in its function. i assume you would feel it immediately when turning.
btw, i'm mechanical engineer by training.
 

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I wasn't doubting anyone. I just couldn't visualize it. The earlier description helped.

If things were binding and be bending I'm sure getting the length right will be something you can feel.
 

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@cafebmw I measured the stock swaybar links and it’s 14.5” from bolt to bolt. Subtracting 2” would mean I need a swaybar link that is 12.5” or 317.5mm. Do you think these adjustable swaybar links would work? SuperPro trc10245 Universal Sway Bar End Link Kit - Adjustable 300-345mm - 10mm Ball Joint End | Suspension.com

Also, since it seems the spring lift on our vans only provides 1.5” of lift in the front if you were building new shock extenders would you make them 1.5” instead of 2”? Curios on your thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
@cafebmw I measured the stock swaybar links and it’s 14.5” from bolt to bolt. Subtracting 2” would mean I need a swaybar link that is 12.5” or 317.5mm. Do you think these adjustable swaybar links would work? SuperPro trc10245 Universal Sway Bar End Link Kit - Adjustable 300-345mm - 10mm Ball Joint End | Suspension.com

Also, since it seems the spring lift on our vans only provides 1.5” of lift in the front if you were building new shock extenders would you make them 1.5” instead of 2”? Curios on your thoughts.
nice find! i love the bling factor!
you are right, i should have shortened by 1.5". but more important is that the sway bar doesn't reach extreme positions. i will report back as soon as i have installed them, one of the next days.
 

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Thanks @cafebmw . I ordered those links and will give them a try. I also ordered shorter shock extenders that will be closer to 1.5”. Now I just need to find a new install shop that I trust knows what they’re doing 😄

One other question: Do you think the rear swaybar links also need to be shortened since we’re using longer rear shocks? I have the comfort suspension which includes the rear swaybar. No one ever mentions rear swaybar links so I’m guessing these are okay to be left as-is?
 

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I haven't looked at my stock sway bar, but the theory would be that the sway bar should be parallel to the ground with the van on the ground and loaded with the typical weight. With an adjustable link you can actually set them different side to side if needed. That's what you might do with a track car. You load the drivers seat with weight and then adjust the driver side link so there is no pre-load in either direction.

The adjustable product is a smart choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
i installed the shortened sway bar links today.
now the sway bar and the links are not going to any extreme position like when a the suspension extends to the maximum length and the sway bar and the lower ball joint would touch the control arm.
i still have to get a wheel alignment done, maybe next week.
the second pic shows the original links one of which bent almost immediately.
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Well done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
One other question: Do you think the rear swaybar links also need to be shortened since we’re using longer rear shocks? I have the comfort suspension which includes the rear swaybar. No one ever mentions rear swaybar links so I’m guessing these are okay to be left as-is?
i checked today to make sure: my cargo van doesn't have a rear stabilizer bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
the new stance. happy but not 100% as i would have liked the front a bit more lifted so that the van is level.
i tried hard to install the Tema 30 mm spacers but it was impossible.
it is not often that i fully load the van where the rear sag levels it out.
whatever...
i did try a few dirt and forest roads nearby last week (west sonoma county), partly with moderately deep ruts and ascends/descents and the van did well.

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the new stance. happy but not 100% as i would have liked the front a bit more lifted so that the van is level.
i tried hard to install the Tema 30 mm spacers but it was impossible.
it is not often that i fully load the van where the rear sag levels it out.
whatever...
i did try a few dirt and forest roads nearby last week (west sonoma county), partly with moderately deep ruts and ascends/descents and the van did well.

View attachment 20915
I don't like the rake either, but it's form over function, right? I mean, the lift will still give you better clearance as well as some height cushion when loaded. I posted this van I saw on the streets a while ago, but it's hard to compare given the angle of your driver's front wheel in the pic above. Your rears look a bit taller, but the black van may have some load and it's hard to compare with the alloys vs. steel.

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@cafebmw, thanks for the update. Really good considerations here and now we know why some kits come with the sway bar extensions. I still have not done anything about my AdventureVan issues, but will do soon. I had originally considered purchasing the 30mm long coupling nuts to extend my shock shafts, but then I realized I wouldn't have enough room to fit the threads of the shock and the set-screw, so I was thinking of cutting the coupling as short as possible with reasonable thread engagement (probably ~40mm) to closer match the actual lift.

Now after all these issues and the annoying rake, I'm thinking of just getting another lift system like the SC lift and mixing them up. Put pucks on the fronts with OE springs and keep the AdventureVan rear springs for their higher load capacity/stability. Hopefully that fixes the rake. Or go Terranger. (I'm thinking I should have just bought the Terranger kit with high capacity springs in the first place! Can't go wrong when it's German TÜV-approved.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
@cafebmw, thanks for the update. Really good considerations here and now we know why some kits come with the sway bar extensions. I still have not done anything about my AdventureVan issues, but will do soon. I had originally considered purchasing the 30mm long coupling nuts to extend my shock shafts, but then I realized I wouldn't have enough room to fit the threads of the shock and the set-screw, so I was thinking of cutting the coupling as short as possible with reasonable thread engagement (probably ~40mm) to closer match the actual lift.

Now after all these issues and the annoying rake, I'm thinking of just getting another lift system like the SC lift and mixing them up. Put pucks on the fronts with OE springs and keep the AdventureVan rear springs for their higher load capacity/stability. Hopefully that fixes the rake. Or go Terranger. (I'm thinking I should have just bought the Terranger kit with high capacity springs in the first place! Can't go wrong when it's German TÜV-approved.)
well, I'm still selling the Tema lift kit which consists of polyurethane spacers. they are unobtainable now as they came from Russia. i paid $270 and that's what i'm asking for.
 

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Another consideration is also the parking brake cables. Since my van is unloaded lately, I've noticed one of the two cables under considerable amount of stress running through the control arm routing. They really should be moved up. At least one kit out there offers extensions for this cable. I made some using scrap aluminum and bolted to the original location with some various washers to keep trapped if it comes loose.

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