Don't know why the paddle shift quote??? Just click on it to go to the right reference.

 

The WD hitch transfers wight from the rear suspension to the front suspension (wight distribution) to stabilize the tow vehicle front wheel control of braking and steering. This involves considerable stress. The traditional tow vehicle has been built on a boxed steel frame. The bolt on cab and bed are not relevant to the WD hitch. The unibody is constructed of pieces of prestressed sheet metal with unconnected stub frames for suspension and engine/trans. The question is whether the unibody construction can handle these stresses and for how long without distortion?

 

I would just give it go before you go weight distribution hitch. I'm around 4000 lbs with trailer and tows beautifully without weight dist. or anti sway. Because I can boondock style....I don't want to remove any weight from the rear wheels, sometimes it rains and I'm in wet grass, so need traction. It

 

I know this issue has been raised a bit before on this and other threads in past years but I'd like to get more recent input re: Curt Echo 51180 vs Tekonsha Prodigy RF vs Autowbrake or other wireless brake controllers. I'm only looking to tow ~2K lb and would prefer to avoid hardwiring a controller and go the wireless route. When researching Curt Echo 51180, it seems that there is a fairly sizable percentage of people that have had issues with brakes being applied unexpectedly on camper and other general weirdness. My preference is to not use my phone for a controller as well, so that seems to leave me with Prodigy RF or Autowbrake or perhaps some other wireless controller I just haven't discovered yet. I should point out that I recently had an independent Mercedes tech install an OEM hitch, control unit and 7-pin connector on my 2016. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.