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Discussion Starter · #182 · (Edited)
Decked Block is looking amazing, I'm certain that was my issue! I'm not sure why I didn't realize I should of decked the block from the get go... anyways live and learn!

Working on reassembly for 2nd shift today...

Also, any idea what these red plastic sleeves with my new valve stem seals are for? any documentation on valve stem seal removal and installation would be fantastic, thank you!

Keelers Mercedes in Schenectady New York came through big time for me. I forgot to order rear main. So they overnighted me a rear main. I was also able to get balance shaft bolts and new oil cooler gasket. Whippee!!
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Wow...that decked block looks fantastic. You are on the right track for sure. I wonder if the previous owner slightly overheated it?
I think those red sleeves are for sliding the stem seals over the valve stems, then you pull the red cover off. That keeps from damaging the new stem seal. You are going to have a like new engine after this assembly....
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Wow...that decked block looks fantastic. You are on the right track for sure. I wonder if the previous owner slightly overheated it?
I think those red sleeves are for sliding the stem seals over the valve stems, then you pull the red cover off. That keeps from damaging the new stem seal. You are going to have a like new engine after this assembly....
They did a great job on the block. They also washed it for me as well.

Your guess is as good as mine. I'm sure it's seen its fair share of abuse. It came with low coolant and new radiator. I wouldn't be surprised in the least bit if was overheated at some point.

Thanks for the pointer on the red sleeves, that makes good sense to me.

Crank and pistons are back in. Getting ready to put the head back on. Things are going smooth.

Stay tuned!
 

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Wow...that decked block looks fantastic. You are on the right track for sure. I wonder if the previous owner slightly overheated it?
I think those red sleeves are for sliding the stem seals over the valve stems, then you pull the red cover off. That keeps from damaging the new stem seal. You are going to have a like new engine after this assembly....
RobbMeex (I think I spelled his name right) indicated on here once that M274s are not the greatest engine- he’s a MB Master Tech, so his opinion has a decent amount of weight. That being said I know of Metris vans with 3 and 400k miles on their original engines. It is my opinion that of the engines in its class- 2 liter direct injection turbos not intended for High Performance applications- the M274 may be among the best of them- granting that quite a few, such as VW/Audis- are genuinely junk.

I assume it overheated, but I also assume it did so spectacularly. It confuses me a little because the M274 has a number of self-protect features that should prevent extensive overheating, although I don’t think it actually engages a shutdown feature. I speculate it was a coolant dump while the van was idling unsupervised.
 

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I feel the same way about the M274, it did have its issues early on but later versions have shown to be a good high mileage robust engine. The thing about alot of the Metris vans is they are company vans that see hard use, maybe decent maintenance but run hard with out care.

As you can see they have a fairly stout lower end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Head is on and this time the bolt down procedure went very smooth...

Just right amount of oil on the head bolts and wah lah! I did have two out of the 10 that gave me some resistance on the first torque to 40nm. I ended up removing them reoiling and reinstalling with my fingers. There was no resistance before going in finger tight but needs just the right amount of oil to get that nice smooth throw of the torque wrench. I was able to get all the head bolts to 40nm plus 3 sets of 90 degrees per the instructions with beautiful smooth throws each time.

Tonight I'm timing, buttoning up and getting ready to get it back in the van.

New valve stem seals should fix the low idle and wont be fouling out my plugs @SprinterSS the old VS seals where hardened. Tell tale sign of overheating!

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CAN'T WAIT!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
WELLLLLL.....

Results are still inconclusive. Turns out my coolant pressure tester was leaking this whole time from the plastic nipple that threads into the female brass fitting of the pressure hose. It's a some what cheap coolant pressure test and vacuum coolant refill kit I bought off ebay. When the van first arrived I checked the coolant system to make sure it was holding pressure and it did.

After the initial go at firing her up (before I realized I had no compression in #1) -since I gave my self a faulty reading with the compression tester- I took the hose off the coolant pressure test pump to attempt to fenagle some sort of home built leak down tester from it with no avail. Clearly over tightened the hose back on the plastic nipple with snapped it and compromised the seal... SO that means the pressure test I did after discovering the coolant in the oil could have been faulty as well. Most likely, since it gives the symptom of holding no pressure at all. BUT I'm almost certain the little pressure that I was able to give it was coming out of the oil cap... ANYways I'm a bit confused now. If the pressure doesn't hold with a new pressure tester and the air escapes from the oil cap I'm gonna feel real stupid. LOL. If that's the case, what are the chances coolant is leaking into the oil somewhere inside the head? Is that even an issue, has any one ever seen that? There is no sign of catastropic casting failure anywhere...

btw how much pressure should I beable to put the coolant system under for testing?

Anyways, engine is in everything is hooked up and ready to rock n roll. I'm not putting any coolant in until I am happy with the pressure testing.

Also, Here is some shots of the head with the valves out.

Stay tuned !
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