[silvrbitcoin101]

Hello all!

I have a 2019 Metris with 90k on it. Just purchased it the end of last year. It is currently in my shop being serviced. I bought the car as a rebuilt title and am in the process of giving it a complete nut and bolt look over. It is a Florida car with excellent frame and body aside from some light left rear quarter damage I will detail more about below...

I'm looking for input on it's current mechanical state and any advice on what else I should be on the look out for. I'm a very well seasoned mechanic and am excited to learn about the Metris through and through. I have extensive mechanical experience rebuilding Audis and so feel very confident in my ability to get this car back on the road and planning for it be a tremendous asset to my small business.

The short of it is this... The vehicle was a fleet vehicle for commercial purposes before blowing the left rear tire and side swiping the median. It was then rebuilt and driven until other minor mechanical issues caused the previous owner to throw in the towel. Whomever rebuilt it, decided not to repair the rear inner wheel well and instead screwed the fender liner to the inside of the wheel well in attempt to keep water and dirt out of the cargo bay... So minimal body damage and I've already repaired the wheel well.

Mechanical and other Issues I've discovered so far:

1.) Failed electronic rack and pinion steering
2.) Compressor seal leaking oil
3.) Misfire cyl # 1 (spark plug looks almost brand new while other 3 plugs have slight carbon build up).
a.) Exhaust port of Cyl #1 has wet unburnt fuel residue (see pictures below)
4.) Needs new front windshield
5.) very light oil residue on bell housing of engine.
6.) Low coolant
Engine DTCs
1.) Misfire in cylinder #1 P0301
1.) Fuel Rail system pressure to low - Bank 1 P0087
3.) P1190 - Y74 (pressure control valve) Oil related?
4.) P060A - Engine oil pressure control circuit open
5.) P1CCF- Fuel Pump Low Pressure
Fuel DTC's
1.) Fuel Pump "A' Control circuit Open

What I've accomplished so far: New turbo charger, new spark plugs, new coil packs. Drained the oil and drained the coolant.
1.) compression tested all cylinders. Cyl #1 is 165, Cyl #2 is 170, Cyl#3 is 178 and Cyl#4 is 175 Psi
2.) Pressure tested the coolant system and it holds so no leaks internally that I'm ware of.
3.) Found missing and loose bolts on coolant and oil feed and return lines for turbo, replaced and tightened.

Next Steps:
Before testing engine, I decided I will replace the fuel pump and check all the lines from the fuel pump to the engine to ensure they are not lose or somehow compromised. Dump out the old fuel and start fresh.

Conclusion: The van has a great history up to the point of it's collision from a blown left rear tire. They must of been doing highway speeds when it blew because it shredded the inner fender into swiss cheese. After that it seams like a plague of minor mechanical issues was accumulating and so the previous owners decided to cut their losses. The engine doesn't have any major oil leaks and is very clean. The vehicle turned over when I received it and ran little rough (typical running with misfire in cylinder).

The 3 DTC's relating to fuel seem to me to be pointing to an obvious bad fuel pump or failing fuel pump because it seemed like the cylinders were getting fuel when I compression tested.

Perhaps the misfire could be related to a bad coil pack ?

What are your thoughts on the wet carbon residue on the exhaust port of the cyl1?

Also, with a bad a turbo leaking oil in the compressor side is it likely it was leaking coolant on the exhaust side and possibly a reason for cyl1 misfire? (shooting in the dark here).

Lastly, Will someone help me find the oil pressure solenoid part #? I'd like to drop the pan and replace the failed solenoid or sensor to fid the p1190 and p060A

I also need engine and turbocharger bolt torque specs and information on how to fill the coolant back up now that I've drained it all.

Your help is much appreciated and I look forward to getting the metris back on the road to make me lots of $$$$$$!!!

 

[Metros]

Good job so far.

Here's the oil pressure solenoid name and part number:
Control Valve - 2781800415
Replace the solenoid wire harness as well:
Engine Wiring Harness - 2701502900

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

Good job so far.

Here's the oil pressure solenoid name and part number:
Control Valve - 2781800415
Replace the solenoid wire harness as well:
Engine Wiring Harness - 2701502900

Thank you!

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

Good job so far.

Here's the oil pressure solenoid name and part number:
Control Valve - 2781800415
Replace the solenoid wire harness as well:
Engine Wiring Harness - 2701502900

STATUS UPDATE ON REBUILD........

I have been working my way through the Metris engine looking for tell tale signs of the problems.

So far, 1.) I discovered the fuel pump in the gas tank is broken in half. van sideswiped the median on the left side after blowing the left rear tire. I think the impact damaged the fuel pump it came out detached from its lower section (see photos).
2.) Appears to be an oil leak from the back of the cylinder head plug creating a light residual oil spray around the bell housing.
3.) loose e- torx around on oil lines. Missing E torx on turbo oil feed and return lines
4.) rear differential has residual oil around the main drive shaft and the rear cv's. CV seals?
5.) Dropped the lower oil pan and removed the Oil control valve wire harness from the oil pump assembly. Going to attempt to remove the oil control valve from the pump assembly without dropping the upper pan. Any one had success with this. Also what is the bolts holding the oil control valve in?
6.) The turbocharge is missing the catalytic gasket for between the turbo and the cat.
7.) still trying to understand the excess built up carbon on the cyl #1 exhaust port. It scrapes off easy with a chisel but is noticeable different carbon than the other cylinders. My assumption is lots of excess carbon and unburnt gas going through the exhaust side from the cyl #1 misfire.

Conclusion. Engine seams rock solid otherwise. Looking forward to getting it back together and test running it. Planning to replace the high pressure fuel pump on the top of the engine as well.
After Oil control valve and harness is replaced that solves two of the DTCs. After fuel pump replacement, new high pressure pump I think this should solve the 3 fuel related DTCs. After new plugs, coils, turbocharger, fresh gas and new oil and coolant I have confident feeling she's gonna fire right up and purr like a kitten. Let me know what you think!

 

[focus805]

STATUS UPDATE ON REBUILD........

I have been working my way through the Metris engine looking for tell tale signs of the problems.

So far, 1.) I discovered the fuel pump in the gas tank is broken in half. van sideswiped the median on the left side after blowing the left rear tire. I think the impact damaged the fuel pump it came out detached from its lower section (see photos).
2.) Appears to be an oil leak from the back of the cylinder head plug creating a light residual oil spray around the bell housing.
3.) loose e- torx around on oil lines. Missing E torx on turbo oil feed and return lines
4.) rear differential has residual oil around the main drive shaft and the rear cv's. CV seals?
5.) Dropped the lower oil pan and removed the Oil control valve wire harness from the oil pump assembly. Going to attempt to remove the oil control valve from the pump assembly without dropping the upper pan. Any one had success with this. Also what is the bolts holding the oil control valve in?
6.) The turbocharge is missing the catalytic gasket for between the turbo and the cat.
7.) still trying to understand the excess built up carbon on the cyl #1 exhaust port. It scrapes off easy with a chisel but is noticeable different carbon than the other cylinders. My assumption is lots of excess carbon and unburnt gas going through the exhaust side from the cyl #1 misfire.

Conclusion. Engine seams rock solid otherwise. Looking forward to getting it back together and test running it. Planning to replace the high pressure fuel pump on the top of the engine as well.
After Oil control valve and harness is replaced that solves two of the DTCs. After fuel pump replacement, new high pressure pump I think this should solve the 3 fuel related DTCs. After new plugs, coils, turbocharger, fresh gas and new oil and coolant I have confident feeling she's gonna fire right up and purr like a kitten. Let me know what you think!

View attachment 22258 View attachment 22259 View attachment 22260 View attachment 22262
View attachment 22263

Great posts! I don't have anything substantive to offer, but hearing your diagnosis is super informative. Thank you!

 

[Metros]

Making progress!! Good job

From what I remember it's a torx 20 and there are two short bolts holding down the solenoid. It's a birch to get to them but I managed it with an adjustable micro ratchet and a flex head.

 

[SprinterSS]

Neat project you have there. Curious as to where the other end of oil pump harness goes? Does it exit the block on the upper section oil pan? Inside of the engine looks decent for 90k miles.

I bet the cylinder #1 assertion that the previous driver drove it a long time with that misfire.

enjoying your posts

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

Making progress!! Good job

From what I remember it's a torx 20 and there are two short bolts holding down the solenoid. It's a birch to get to them but I managed it with an adjustable micro ratchet and a flex head.

Thank you, turns out they are actually T-15 Torx.

SUCCESSFULLY REMOVED THE CONTROL VALVE WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED WRENCHES. WHAT A BITCH!! (SEE PICTURES BELOW)

I'm super excited I was able to remove the control valve from the oil pump assembly with out having to remove the upper oil pan. Removing the upper oil pan would probably be a lot of easier if I had a lift and a way to independently support the engine since it is sitting on top of the subframe which requires lowering in order to remove the upper oil ban.

BTW, has anyone removed the upper oil pan with the vehicle on jackstands? There appears to be some clearance between the pan and the subframe but from what I could visualize absolutely no way around the filler tube...

Anyways, it took me 4 hours to remove the 2 screws as I only got maybe an 1/8th of 1/4 turn from my wrenches that I welded together and bent as need from two small torx bits, an allen wrench and some scrap 1/4" mild steel rod.

Here's the photos...

Stay tuned for more to come!

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

Neat project you have there. Curious as to where the other end of oil pump harness goes? Does it exit the block on the upper section oil pan? Inside of the engine looks decent for 90k miles.

I bet the cylinder #1 assertion that the previous driver drove it a long time with that misfire.

enjoying your posts

The other end of the control valve for the oil pump goes to the front and top of the upper oil pan. It's tucked in tight to the block. Don't mistake it for the oil level sensor which is the furthest toward the front of the block. I smashed mine thinking it was the control valve harness which is only click locked into the block with an O ring and plastic housing that snaps in. The oil level sensor harness is a plastic O ringed housing as well but instead of clicking into place it is bolted from the inside of the upper oil pan.

Check out this photo for the location of the control valve harness and oil level sensor hardness.

 

[focus805]

You're leading the race for the 2023 MacGyver award! Nicely done --

 

[icerabbit]

up for the know-how and ability to tackle such a project!

And, thank you for sharing the project!

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

You're leading the race for the 2023 MacGyver award! Nicely done --

YET ANOTHER UPDATE FOR THE REBUILD. NEW PROBLEMS DISCOVERED AND FIRED UP FOR THE FIRST TIME!!!!

The end of the oil control valve chapter...

Talk about Macgyver... Getting the oil pump control valve into the upper oil pan was not so bad. Getting the two T-15s tight and torqued was a frickin' chore.

My make shift torx keys were not cutting the mustard in terms of turning and rotating the screws enough to get them to thread and tighten down. I ended up resorting to purchasing a flexible head 1/4" drill extension and a mini pivoting ratchet. I used zip ties to hold the flexible extension into a "U" shape and carefully slipped it between the bottom of the oil pump assembly and the oil pickup tube rotating it once I was behind the control valve and pump untill the torx bit found its way to the upper T-15, the most awful and stubborn position to turn and thread the machine screw that holds the upper ear of the control valve in place.

I also use a long flexible grabber tool so once I was able to get my torx bit end close enough to the head of the screws the grabber helped me precisly aim the bit end of the flexible drill bit extension. Once lined up the torx with the help of the grabber into the head of the upper t-15 bolt I put my electric impact on the other end. With some gentle forward pressure I was able to get the bit to seat into the head of the upper t-15 bolt and send her on her way home!!!! That also allowed me to give a few good bursts of the impact to get a reasonable torque force need for the small bolt.

After tightening the control valve down, I had to replace my oil level sensor since I destroyed the harness end removing it from the pan. If you're going to attempt the oil pressure control valve removal as I have (see pictures below) you definitely need to remove the oil level sensor, bracket and harness from the upper oil pan.

Then I moved on to chapter, "Reinstall the Turbo and all related components."...

That was no problem, except for breaking an exhaust manifold stud. One stud was already broken in the block when I came into possession of the van. so the stud further back on the top and the stud first on top from the front of the car are broken but manifold is secure. I made sure to thread lock my exhaust studs and all turbo hardware as well as coolant and oil feed and return lines. I found a little bit of corrosion on one of the coolant feed lines. Also, one of the O-rings is slightly torn, but still holding for now.

I reconnected the intake tubing for the intercooler and put the remaining turbo related components back together, including support brackets for the turbo intake tubing, the exhaust manifold heat shield and ran my harness back to the points it was secured at and reconnected all the sensors.

Then it was on to chapter "Prep for first time start up since minor tear down"...

I also found a broken high pressure fuel pump and subsequently replaced it. After installing the new coil plugs and and reconnecting the coil and fuel injector harnesses I put the rubber cover on and in the air filter housing.

At this point in time I had not done anything to intake side of the engine... I decided to put the new oil and filter in, fill up the coolant, reconnect the battery, put fresh gas in and fire it up.

Results of the first time start are promising but not satisfactory...

First start was rough but I expected that it fired up and ran and then stalled. I turned it off for a few minutes and restarted to give time for fluids to move through the system and the computers to gather their intel. 2nd start was a lot better. The van idled nicely for a short time and I was able to rev it up to 3k and listen to the turbo spool which sounded great! Soon after it began to randomly misfire. DTCs are random misfires and still low fuel pressure in bank 1.

I turned it off and waited and then started it up for a third time. the van idles but was clearly misfiring. When I got the van it wouldn't even idle. I believe that's progress in the right direction!

Unfortunately, upon start up leak investigation I found a serious oil leak coming from the back of the head... There also looks to be a vacuum line missing from the component bolted to the back of the head. There is a nipple for a vacuum hose and a plastic vacuum hose connector on this component or is it oil line related? Anyone tell me what it is????? (Last photo) You can see oil drops have formed on the bolt heads and I believe this component is the source of the oil leak.

SO INCONCLUSION... After discovering the oil leak and the random misfires I decided to overhaul the intake manifold. CLEARLY, the vehicle was driven over a long period of time with the compressor leaking oil and the spray was being burnt in the engine, which I believe is the source of the misfires. The intake is evenly coated with oil spray which leads me to believe my intake sensors are failed because they are soaked with oil.

Then there is the oil leak from the component on the back of the head, I previously thought the plug on the back of the head was leaking the oil but I suspect it is this component. The oil trail stops there. This component is mounted to the back of the head just above the head plug.

So three things, 1) what is the component leaking oil from the back of the head? 2.)I'm replacing the 4 sensors on the intake manifold and 3.) why is there still low fuel pressure bank 1 code?

Let me know what you think!!!!!

Photos Below in Order...

 

[SprinterSS]

On the back of the engine I am fairly sure that is the vacuume pump for the brake booster. Do you see a hose going to brake booster from that on the back of the engine?

see one here;

2016 W205 MERCEDES C300 M274 2.0L BRAKE VACUUM PUMP ASSEMBLY OEM 2701800901 | eBay

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

On the back of the engine I am fairly sure that is the vacuume pump for the brake booster. Do you see a hose going to brake booster from that on the back of the engine?

see one here;

2016 W205 MERCEDES C300 M274 2.0L BRAKE VACUUM PUMP ASSEMBLY OEM 2701800901 | eBay

that's definitely it. And yes the hose goes to the brake booster. is the nipple at the bottom of the hose port suppose to connect to a vacuum hose? what is the nipples purpose?

Maybe I'll start with checking the hose fitting on the top as is shown above but the nipple must provide vacuum else where. Do you know?

It's kind of hard to do further back testing because I can't run the car with the intake all apart and no sensors so I can't see the exact location oil is leaking from but the trail of oil seems to be obvious enough. my hunch is there is suppose to be a vacuum line going from that lone nipple to something in the intake or elsewhere. what's your thoughts?

Also, with the random misfires a vacuum leak or disconnected hose is something I'm always keeping an eye out for.

On with further investigation. Stay Tuned!!

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

So here is what I believe is the oil leak culprit. Next to the vacuum pump for the brake booster is this giant hole that looks to be some sort of oil or sensor socket. Can anyone tell me what is suppose to live in this hole?

@SprinterSS I checked the play on the vacuum pump hose port and there seems to be a thousandth or so of play. When I grab it with my fingers I can feel the slightest play back and forth. Any thoughts on this? Also, is the brake booster vacuum pump a common issue? Engine has 90k miles.

End note: It seams obvious to me that someting should live in this socket on the back of my engine head. This is a rebuilt car I am bringing back to life. It is possible somebody removed the component not shown, perhaps it was just a plug? I have no idea.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you!!!!

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

So here is what I believe is the oil leak culprit. Next to the vacuum pump for the brake booster is this giant hole that looks to be some sort of oil or sensor socket. Can anyone tell me what is suppose to live in this hole?

View attachment 22289

@SprinterSS I checked the play on the vacuum pump hose port and there seems to be a thousandth or so of play. When I grab it with my fingers I can feel the slightest play back and forth. Any thoughts on this? Also, is the brake booster vacuum pump a common issue? Engine has 90k miles.

End note: It seams obvious to me that someting should live in this socket on the back of my engine head. This is a rebuilt car I am bringing back to life. It is possible somebody removed the component not shown, perhaps it was just a plug? I have no idea.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you!!!!

Here is another view of the engine head from the upside down POV

What goes in the big hole to the right?! My engine is missing this component and leaking oil from it.

 

[silvrbitcoin101]

It's the hole to the left with the threaded hole above it. Camshaft position sensor?

 

[focus805]

that's definitely it. And yes the hose goes to the brake booster. is the nipple at the bottom of the hose port suppose to connect to a vacuum hose? what is the nipples purpose?
View attachment 22288
Maybe I'll start with checking the hose fitting on the top as is shown above but the nipple must provide vacuum else where. Do you know?

It's kind of hard to do further back testing because I can't run the car with the intake all apart and no sensors so I can't see the exact location oil is leaking from but the trail of oil seems to be obvious enough. my hunch is there is suppose to be a vacuum line going from that lone nipple to something in the intake or elsewhere. what's your thoughts?

Also, with the random misfires a vacuum leak or disconnected hose is something I'm always keeping an eye out for.

On with further investigation. Stay Tuned!!

Finding a vacuum leak is always promising when trying to sort out rough idle. Keep up the brave work. I'd have been terrified about dropping the torx into the abyss with your impact setup, so great work there!

 

[SprinterSS]

So here is what I believe is the oil leak culprit. Next to the vacuum pump for the brake booster is this giant hole that looks to be some sort of oil or sensor socket. Can anyone tell me what is suppose to live in this hole?

View attachment 22289

@SprinterSS I checked the play on the vacuum pump hose port and there seems to be a thousandth or so of play. When I grab it with my fingers I can feel the slightest play back and forth. Any thoughts on this? Also, is the brake booster vacuum pump a common issue? Engine has 90k miles.

End note: It seams obvious to me that someting should live in this socket on the back of my engine head. This is a rebuilt car I am bringing back to life. It is possible somebody removed the component not shown, perhaps it was just a plug? I have no idea.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you!!!!

My Metris is a 22 model, but should be the same. I will see if i can get a pic of that other hole. I think it is just supposed to have a cam plug in it as i think the camshaft position sensor is on the front? Will see If i can get a good pic.

On the #1 Cylinder which appears to be oily, did you do a compression test on each cylinder? Also if you have one of those $10 Boroscopes running a peek down in that cylinder would be a great way of checing there is no significant issues (cylinder walls, valves, piston etc).

 

[SprinterSS]

Here is a pic i found online of the rear of the engine. This version looks like a cam plug in that left hand hole with another "resevoir" type thing on top bolted to the hole shown. I will get a pic of mine too.

Mercedes M274 Engine vacume pump - Search Images (bing.com)